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Has anyone installed the Van Steel coilovers? I would like to hear the pros and cons. I would like to buy a new Street Shop chassis for my 73 but $15000 is out of my budget.I have the Vette Brakes performance plus suspenion now and will sell it if I buy coilovers.Any comments?Thanks Charlie
I have completed this install, but do not have the car on the road yet. Here are a few pics. I used the complete kit, the one that includes the new offset trailing arms. One issue that needs to be addressed is the brake lines, plan on either making or have made the hard line to the caliper.
I would like to see photos of the front suspension. I would to know how it drives and the ride quality.I talked to Paul fromVan Steel and he said it should be about the same as C4 suspension.Has any one drove a C3 with the coilover system.
I love that chassis. I have never gotten to grips with the "new" fiberglass rear spring. I think I like the old worn out steel one better; eventhough i have Bilsteins it does not "feel" right. Hence I have wanted a coil over set up!
Any driving impressions?
carbster
Van Steel ... about how much cash does the client have in a full set up like you did? Its very nice.
I can't speak for a c3, but I installed froint coil overs (not semi coil over) with tubular a arms from van steel on my c2. 500lb springs qa1 shocks.
I run with shocks one stiffer from half way on shock setting in the terrible streets of SF bay area.
The ride is very good, nice and firm but not jarring, don't cringe at pot holes and definately don't bounce or float.
I will be doing my rear this winter hopefully.
I love that chassis. I have never gotten to grips with the "new" fiberglass rear spring. I think I like the old worn out steel one better; eventhough i have Bilsteins it does not "feel" right. Hence I have wanted a coil over set up!
Any driving impressions?
carbster
Van Steel ... about how much cash does the client have in a full set up like you did? Its very nice.
This forum member had a lot of extras done to the frame, such as welding the whole frame, boxing in some areas, 30 spline inner & 31 spline outer axles. His cost more than the average rolling chassis rebuild that we normally do. Average cost to do a rolling chassis is about $6500 out the door.
To convert to full coilovers is about $3300 for all 4 corners. It can be higher depending on is you want to go with double adj shocks or having your bearing assemblies rebuilt and the rear coilover arms installed.
We also give 10% off to forum members on most products we offer. There are a few exclusions.
Can I just get the coilovers and brackets in a kit if I have already have the new offset trailings arms?
No but if you purchased our offset and want to convert to the coilovers, send the offsets you purchased from us back and we will give you a credit toward the purchase of the coilover conversion kit. The credit is $250 for the pair in good condition. If they are really beat up, it's $200.
The uppers have 6 Degrees of positive caster built into the arm. I've seen 8.75 degrees of positive caster on the alignment rack. What more caster does is help the car track straighter and it help with initial turn in/transition.
The arms are not made of DOM tubing either like most other arms. We opted to go with Chromoly tubing. All the ball joint mounting plates are laser cut as well.
The uppers have 6 Degrees of positive caster built into the arm. I've seen 8.75 degrees of positive caster on the alignment rack. What more caster does is help the car track straighter and it help with initial turn in/transition.
The arms are not made of DOM tubing either like most other arms. We opted to go with Chromoly tubing. All the ball joint mounting plates are laser cut as well.
8 and 3/4 degrees of positive caster will also take two or more people to turn the wheel in a manual steering car
Am I getting this right, if you use the rear coil over kit you no longer have or need the transverse leaf spring?
If you want to drop the ride height say 2" is this accomplished by adjusting the coil over position or is it done with a shorter spring?
Correct, no more rear spring.
When you set the ride height, you just have to adjust the spanner nuts on the coilover to raise or lower ride height. If you want to really slam the rear, we can also go with a shorter spring BUT you will suspension travel. We currently supply 8" Hyperco springs in our kits and it's good for close to a 2" drop. If you want more drop, we could swap out springs and go with a 7" coil.
When you set the ride height, you just have to adjust the spanner nuts on the coilover to raise or lower ride height. If you want to really slam the rear, we can also go with a shorter spring BUT you will suspension travel. We currently supply 8" Hyperco springs in our kits and it's good for close to a 2" drop. If you want more drop, we could swap out springs and go with a 7" coil.
That sounds really sweet. I'll spend some time on your website and check out more details. I was also just reading your other thread on the new Wilwood kit. I think I know how to spend my winter now! Thanks for the info.
That sounds really sweet. I'll spend some time on your website and check out more details. I was also just reading your other thread on the new Wilwood kit. I think I know how to spend my winter now! Thanks for the info.
I'm here to help. If you ever got a question or need anything, let me know.
Nice looking frame. Do have it on the road yet? If you do how does it drive and how is the ride? I'm just about ready to go for the coilover kit.I would really like to talk to someone who has driven a C3 with coilovers. How about you Dan ? Paul said you and your dad have a 80 with the kit on it. Give me some input. Thanks Charlie.
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