Electric Fans/ Taurus Conversion
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville Alabama
Electric Fans/ Taurus Conversion
Ok I have searched and want to know is it worth it to swap to a Taurus electric fan. I do not want to swap to a aluminum radiator or anything expensive so do not recommend that. I want first hand experience with the Taurus fan swap. I have been tracing the overheating problem or what I thought was. I found that the temp sender for my autometer sport comp was bad got a new one and it checks out with my i.r. thermometer. So when parked the temp still climbs past 210 should stay at 180 thats the thermostat. I have all seals in place along with the spoiler. So I have done some research with my current electric fan setup. I have the Hayden/Imperial 12 and 10 inch fans direct on the radiator.
The 12in is supposed to flow 675cfm and the 10 500. Is it worth it to upgrade to the taurus fan. I have a new stock radiator with all seals and spoiler in place. Or would it be best to make a shroud for these fans. Thanks
The 12in is supposed to flow 675cfm and the 10 500. Is it worth it to upgrade to the taurus fan. I have a new stock radiator with all seals and spoiler in place. Or would it be best to make a shroud for these fans. Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
If you only have overheating problems at idle and parked, and assuming you already have a brand new stock radiator with a functioning electric fan setup, a Taurus fan could help.
To cool your engine, you need about 2600 cfm air flow in the hardest conditions. So, you are far from this number with your current setup.
Most people don't use a fan shroud when using a Taurus fan because it's generally not needed ( it's one of the most powerful fans available, about 3000 cfm ).
By doing so, it will only cool the radiator area corresponding to its diameter. However with a new radiator core, it should be more than enough.
Also, remember that the Taurus fan is heavy and vibrates at full speed, so I wouldn't attach it through the radiator core, but with strong brackets.
If you're interested, I made my own fan shroud with two 12" ( 2 x 1330 cfm ) SPAL fans http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30101522_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH :
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-progress.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-pictures.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...l-chapter.html
There is something else you could try first, except if you already did it :
If your distributor has a vacuum advance canister, hook it to full intake manifold vacuum instead of the ported vacuum carb fitting.
This will help cooling the engine at idle. Believe me, it's very noticeable, and this improvement costs nothing.
To cool your engine, you need about 2600 cfm air flow in the hardest conditions. So, you are far from this number with your current setup.
Most people don't use a fan shroud when using a Taurus fan because it's generally not needed ( it's one of the most powerful fans available, about 3000 cfm ).
By doing so, it will only cool the radiator area corresponding to its diameter. However with a new radiator core, it should be more than enough.
Also, remember that the Taurus fan is heavy and vibrates at full speed, so I wouldn't attach it through the radiator core, but with strong brackets.
If you're interested, I made my own fan shroud with two 12" ( 2 x 1330 cfm ) SPAL fans http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30101522_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH :
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-progress.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-pictures.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...l-chapter.html
There is something else you could try first, except if you already did it :
If your distributor has a vacuum advance canister, hook it to full intake manifold vacuum instead of the ported vacuum carb fitting.
This will help cooling the engine at idle. Believe me, it's very noticeable, and this improvement costs nothing.
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Sep 2, 2010 at 05:45 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Ok
Wouldnt hooking up your timing to the full intake make it advance the distributor faster or more than needed at low rpms?
If you plan on keeping stock fan and adding the 10 and 12 infront of radiator it should help a bit. If removing stock go with the biggest dual setup or a 18" with over 2600cfm. also wire it where it is on a temp sensor wired to a constant hot, so when the car is shut off it will still run and cool the motor after being driven.
If you plan on keeping stock fan and adding the 10 and 12 infront of radiator it should help a bit. If removing stock go with the biggest dual setup or a 18" with over 2600cfm. also wire it where it is on a temp sensor wired to a constant hot, so when the car is shut off it will still run and cool the motor after being driven.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,077
Likes: 0
From: westmoreland N.H.
i use a lincoln mk8 fan. it's suppost to have about 4500 cfm free flow. it keeps my 500 hp. motor at no more than 180 on a 90 degree day. i use a www.dccontrol.com for a controled ramp up speed.works awsome!
heres a pic.
hope this helps..
heres a pic.hope this helps..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
i use a lincoln mk8 fan. it's suppost to have about 4500 cfm free flow. it keeps my 500 hp. motor at no more than 180 on a 90 degree day. i use a www.dccontrol.com for a controled ramp up speed.works awsome!heres a pic.
hope this helps..
heres a pic.hope this helps..
However, just a quick question : Do you use the stock copper radiator or is it aftermarket ?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,557
Likes: 9
From: Oquirrh Mountains
St. Jude Donor '09
Here's a Taurus 3.8L fan on a Dewitt's AL radiator. You could just as easily adapt this to a factory radiator. The brackets are nothing more than 2"x2" aluminum angle. They are then riveted to the radiator hat. Just be careful to have a drill stop so you don't get the radiator core.
You can see from the 1st pic, the fan covers the core very well. This rad is for a '66 427 car.
The bolts are countersunk/flat faced & I countersunk the aluminum brackets on the opposite side so they wouldn't touch the radiator core. If you look closely, you can see the holes for riveting to the radiator hat. I trimmed the plastic tab off the top of the radiator since it no longer served a useful purpose.
Foam rubber detail.
You will want to trim away the overhang from the AL brackets. In my case, a sharpie and a jigsaw with a metal blade did the trick nicely. Foam rubber from Home Despot seals the sides.
Fan, brackets, foam rubber, hardware = $40 a couple of years ago. I flow tested the fan and it flows right at 2000 cfm (the Mark 8 only flows about 200 cfm more) Be sure to conect power to only the high speed wire. If you run power to both the low and high speed wires, you will burn up the motor.
You can see from the 1st pic, the fan covers the core very well. This rad is for a '66 427 car.
The bolts are countersunk/flat faced & I countersunk the aluminum brackets on the opposite side so they wouldn't touch the radiator core. If you look closely, you can see the holes for riveting to the radiator hat. I trimmed the plastic tab off the top of the radiator since it no longer served a useful purpose.
Foam rubber detail.
You will want to trim away the overhang from the AL brackets. In my case, a sharpie and a jigsaw with a metal blade did the trick nicely. Foam rubber from Home Despot seals the sides.
Fan, brackets, foam rubber, hardware = $40 a couple of years ago. I flow tested the fan and it flows right at 2000 cfm (the Mark 8 only flows about 200 cfm more) Be sure to conect power to only the high speed wire. If you run power to both the low and high speed wires, you will burn up the motor.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 783
Likes: 38
From: Mankato Mn
I used the same fan as Ben Lurkin in my 68 big block with the stock radiator. It works great. Comes on at 180 which is the stat I'm running. The only thing I did different was put a single pole/double throw switch down by the vac over ride switch. That way I can run at either speed.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 285
Likes: 9
From: Waukesha Wi
Hey guys i,m in the process of installing my radiator with the mark 8 fan into my car(1981) did any of you have troubles getting it to fit past the sway bar?
I have a new 4 row radiator so its thicker than before and it looks like if it were a inch thinner i wouldn't have had any issues?
I dropped the sway bar down for now,but just wondering if there will be clearance issues putting it back up once the rad is in place?
I have a new 4 row radiator so its thicker than before and it looks like if it were a inch thinner i wouldn't have had any issues?
I dropped the sway bar down for now,but just wondering if there will be clearance issues putting it back up once the rad is in place?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 285
Likes: 9
From: Waukesha Wi
