Can anyone tell me what kind of times (0-60) and quarter mile I can expect by dropping around a 450 hp 383 in my 75 vette?

 

http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/calculators.html

Here are some calculators that will give you very "ROUGH" estimates........enter the data that is specfic to your car. Please note these do not account for tire diameter, gear ratio, altitude, temperature, etc.....amongst other variables.

A 75 Vette weights around 3,600 +/- pounds IIRC with a full tank of gas.....now add your body weight to that figure.....etc....etc......if done right you'll probably be around the low-mid 12's........

 

Traction is going to be a big fractor in your times. A set of drag radials will help

 

There will be other contributing factors on a time as well, including rear gear and convertor stall.. My motor was dynoed at 460hp and will run roughly 12.1 with a 4.11 and 3000 stall.. And with a 125hp shot of NOS I am down around 11.3...

Here are a few runs from this past weekend at a local 1/8 drag event on an airport runway.. Traction was terrible and I spun off the line and spun a little again when I hit the NOS and only ran a best ET of 7.68 @ 95mph with a best 60ft of only 1.85..
1st run was only an 8.1
2nd run was a 7.8
3rd run was a 7.68

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2kiezNTtxE

 

I watched you videos and it doesn't appear to me that you have a line lock. Very simple to install. Do a search I did a post with pictures.

 

Your right I dont have a line lock yet.. I had to backpedal off one of the burnouts because I started drifting and pointing towards the other car.. If I would of rolled out, I would of clipped him.. The last burnout I didnt even heat them up much..

 

To the post a mild 383 might get you into the mid to low 12 seconds. The weight of the car is a big factor. The 396 - 454 small blocks are really the way to go. Because ci is TQ or less ci and use power adders like N20.

Line locks and slicks show people that you are a little more serious. Cheap investment in a couple of track only wheels/slicks and a line lock.

It becomes a very easy routine. just roll through the water box leaving your rears in the water. Stomp on the brake, push the line lock button, let off the brake. put your tranny in second gear and floor it. Watch your speedo. I ran mine up to 90 mph for @ 3 seconds. Let off the line lock button and the car starts to move forward 4-8 feet, just let off the gas and slowly role up to the staging lights

 

VERY VERY cool site!!!: thumbs:

 

A TRUE 450 crank HP should get you 11.80@112 or so if your car is setup with the correct rear gear and more importantly a GOOD(ie. Efficient) torque converter that is matched to the combo. Thus assuming your 3600lbs is your raceweight(incl driver/fuel), assuming the car hooks and assuming the DA (air) is good.

Years ago I had a 78 Trans Am that ran 12.0@108 mph with 1.60 60's with a mild 406" Pontiac that we estimated around 400-425hp and 450+ tq. A cheap/sloppy 3000 converter and 3.42 gears, 26" ET drag slicks. The car was 3650lb with me in it. The car left good (7.60@88 in 1/8 mile) but didn't back half well....not enough hp, not enough rpm range and too sloppy of a converter. It was fun for what it was and for a high school kid...

 

Al....

I had a 78 TA 6.6 WS6 car with a 3.42 and a 4 speed....headers...duals and no cats....recurved dist, tweaked Q-jet and open hood scoop.....it ran low 12's at 4000' altitude.....spinning thru first gear on street tires.

 

You're talking about 1/8 mile, right? Because if you mean 1/4 mile, then you're saying a 78 Trans Am, with no internal engine mods, with 4 speed, on street tires, would run high 11's at sea level.

 

Nope........12.3 - 12.4 on a couple of occasions, usually higher in the 12's though.......you need roughly 350 HP +/- at the crank to do that. The TA 6.6 engine in 1978 (versus the regular 400) had an hotter GTO cam profile, with different heads and rockers in it from the factory IIRC. Making it breath better made a huge difference according to Herb Adams which is where I got the reference for the mods from. "That" engine was waaaay under rated and the hot ticket......Pontiac rated it at 220 net HP and 325 torque........heh. It probably made 275/400 in reality in stock form.

I am also talking about 1979-80 here, and frankly I don't know how good the timing equipment at the old strip was way back then either, and don't doubt that was probably a factor somewhat as well. I also had really wide performance street tires (+2" or so extra tread on the back) on aftermarket wheels and traction bars underneath, open headers, less tire pressure, etc.....

It ran mid to high 13's out of the box when new.

 

Not to hijack....but having driven and raced a LOT of the T/A's back in the late 70's....they just weren't that fast. Not even close.

There were the 400's and the 403 Olds versions (real slugs). We could tell who had what by the script of the lettering on the scoop as well as how much of it was visible. The 403's were a shorter motor and the scoop sunk down in the hood. Many guys would add an air filter spacer from an early 70"s Chevy pickup to get it up higher.

Usually we saw 15's on a real good one. 16's on the 403 Olds motors with 2.41 gears and a T-350 trans. N20 got them into the 14's..maybe high 13's with sticky tires.

A good 4 speed shoe could get 14's out of a 455" stocker. We had an old 455HO Trans AM in our group that could do high 12's low 13's with headers and tuning as well as tires.

So to the OP...a good solid 450 HP will go pretty darn fast. Most folks think they have a lot more than they actually have. As mentioned there are a lot of variables using the calculators. For example..my car *makes it* on the other end of the track with plain 'ole HP. It's not that great out of the hole so the numbers don't work out for 1/8th mile..but at the end of 1/4 they are pretty close. Plus there is weather.altitude etc.

Let us know how it goes when you get it installed and make a track pass!

JIM