Blockman/SHP dart block
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
Blockman/SHP dart block
What do you thing about trying to run a little over 15.0 comp with a not very long stroke, for short time periods with an SHP block. Any other blocks in that price range do a better job. Main strength differance i can find between the SHP and the race blocks are the quality of iron and the steel caps.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
What do you thing about trying to run a little over 15.0 comp with a not very long stroke, for short time periods with an SHP block. Any other blocks in that price range do a better job. Main strength differance i can find between the SHP and the race blocks are the quality of iron and the steel caps.
I think you would be fine as there are alot of cirlce track racers using those blocks with high compression ratios and no issues so far and I have not heard of one issue with the SHP blocks.
We built a Procharger engine last year and it was just over 700 horse on the dyno with a F-1 charger and now stepped up to an F-3 charger and is doing fine. One note at 60 MPH it will lay down 250 feet of rubber.
One customer build a twin turboed 401 with one of our blocks and claims he is making 850 horse.
Look over his build as it pretty interesting and he did a fine job building his engine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjDyK...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V55WOYTIbGs
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
The splayed nodular iron caps seem to be pretty strong, Most of the blocks we add a stud which does not make the caps stronger but more stable!!! and its better hardware
I think you would be fine as there are alot of cirlce track racers using those blocks with high compression ratios and no issues so far and I have not heard of one issue with the SHP blocks.
We built a Procharger engine last year and it was just over 700 horse on the dyno with a F-1 charger and now stepped up to an F-3 charger and is doing fine. One note at 60 MPH it will lay down 250 feet of rubber.
One customer build a twin turboed 401 with one of our blocks and claims he is making 850 horse.
Look over his build as it pretty interesting and he did a fine job building his engine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjDyK...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V55WOYTIbGs
Hope this helps
I think you would be fine as there are alot of cirlce track racers using those blocks with high compression ratios and no issues so far and I have not heard of one issue with the SHP blocks.
We built a Procharger engine last year and it was just over 700 horse on the dyno with a F-1 charger and now stepped up to an F-3 charger and is doing fine. One note at 60 MPH it will lay down 250 feet of rubber.
One customer build a twin turboed 401 with one of our blocks and claims he is making 850 horse.
Look over his build as it pretty interesting and he did a fine job building his engine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjDyK...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V55WOYTIbGs
Hope this helps
Thanks. Have more confidence this could work for sure now. Mostly concerned about the caps.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
run a little over 15.0 compL mouse... from my experience..... I'm thinking how to word this. The best answer is the laws of diminishing returns. Once you get into the 13.8 -17.0 C/R motors with cranking pressures exceeding 215 psi octane requirerments get in to the 110+ range or methanol fuel.
These 15/1 c/r sprint car motors that I rebiuld running methanol. Just a little hickup on the injection or timing breaks the best rods. Most of these motors run like 42 cc heads and small cc - neg pistons. On the dyno runs. I saw very little power changes, but reliability went way up as c/r went near 13.8 -13.2 These motor were doing 8400 rpm
These 15/1 c/r sprint car motors that I rebiuld running methanol. Just a little hickup on the injection or timing breaks the best rods. Most of these motors run like 42 cc heads and small cc - neg pistons. On the dyno runs. I saw very little power changes, but reliability went way up as c/r went near 13.8 -13.2 These motor were doing 8400 rpm
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
run a little over 15.0 compL mouse... from my experience..... I'm thinking how to word this. The best answer is the laws of diminishing returns. Once you get into the 13.8 -17.0 C/R motors with cranking pressures exceeding 215 psi octane requirerments get in to the 110+ range or methanol fuel.
These 15/1 c/r sprint car motors that I rebiuld running methanol. Just a little hickup on the injection or timing breaks the best rods. Most of these motors run like 42 cc heads and small cc - neg pistons. On the dyno runs. I saw very little power changes, but reliability went way up as c/r went near 13.8 -13.2 These motor were doing 8400 rpm
These 15/1 c/r sprint car motors that I rebiuld running methanol. Just a little hickup on the injection or timing breaks the best rods. Most of these motors run like 42 cc heads and small cc - neg pistons. On the dyno runs. I saw very little power changes, but reliability went way up as c/r went near 13.8 -13.2 These motor were doing 8400 rpm
Last edited by Little Mouse; Sep 14, 2010 at 06:19 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
You are better off with a 4.125 or even a 4 inch stroker block that can be bored to near 4.200. I like the 441 or 447 ci small blocks
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I think the Motown 400ci is the cheapest your going to find that accepts a 4 inch stroke crank with no clearancing, check the deck heights and deburr and everything else should be right on the money 
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
SHP block will handle what i want to do.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
Gkull, Motorhead. I'm not saying i might not try to afford a regular race block. If i were really trying to build even a 4 inch stroke or something longer would go strait to a raised cam, widened pan rail, taller deck iron eagle. Some might want the even taller deck aluminum version. Or simply build a BBC for just going in a strait line.
I look back to a 65 vette coupe, full interior. nine inch ford, of course a roll cage. not really a light race car. I don't recall him constantly having to change out blocks or cranks. Two bolt main, factory block, 2.30 size main 2.00 pins. 1053 or 5340 grade steel crank, factory heads, racing head service ported. 1970s when the doug nash five speed came out. Down in the 10s with a 292.
AN SHP block would be big time strong in comparison to what he had to use. Of course i'm not going to build anything near the size of a 292.
I look back to a 65 vette coupe, full interior. nine inch ford, of course a roll cage. not really a light race car. I don't recall him constantly having to change out blocks or cranks. Two bolt main, factory block, 2.30 size main 2.00 pins. 1053 or 5340 grade steel crank, factory heads, racing head service ported. 1970s when the doug nash five speed came out. Down in the 10s with a 292.
AN SHP block would be big time strong in comparison to what he had to use. Of course i'm not going to build anything near the size of a 292.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Sep 15, 2010 at 03:59 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
I hate seeing World blocks come in the door for work, their Doweled caps never fit good as some are tight and thats fine but the ones that fit loose there is not much you can do to fix that problem, The main lines are line bored only and the last 2 blocks looked like they were threaded and they were on the high side not much you could do to correct that problem. If you did cut the caps and relined honed it it would never get rid of the line boring near the parting lines.
The last block we ever bought from World was filled with epoxy and the they would not take it back so we ended up selling that block for cost and went to a Dart. So I would never buy nothing from World.
Worlds customer service stinks and Dart if thier has been a problem its been addressed ASAP no questions asked.
