HELP!!!!

My front is 28.5" high and the rear is 30".

I think it possible that the 550# in the front might give me what I want there, but I'm pessimistic that a 8" leaf spring bolt will give me what I want, which is a ride height
equal to the front.

I've looked at VanSteel and VB&P's solution. I've also looked at a "Shark Bite" rear coil over. I'm apprehensive about throwing that kind of $$$ at the rear and
ending up disappointed.

I am up for any and all suggestions....

 

This should work


http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=296

 

deflate the tires.

 

This has got to be the funny'est thread I have ever read on this forum

 

@Cottoneg...

You just hit the nail on the head for me. The rear end of my '75 is so still that you really can't push down on it at all. The front is softer and more normal.

I have no point of reference to know what the "normal" amount that I should be able to push down the rear. That might explain why the rear sits 1.5" higher than the front. They are both too high.

Thanks for bringing the oversteer phenomenon to my attention. I've had some "holy crap" moments when it felt that the rear end was wanting to come around.

I want to do something with the rear end. I'm just not sure what, but I do know that if I keep it with the stock hardware...that the leaf spring has got to go.

Thanks....

 

I agree. I was using a brand new spring compressor to remove the spring. I compressed the spring slightly, removed the ball-joint nut and went to work with pickle fort. When the lower ball joint released, the lower A-arm moved about 2 inches. The threads were ultimately stripped out of one of the nuts. It could have moved farther but the floor jack was under it. In my opinion, there was not a good match between the nuts and the threaded rod and the nuts were not hardened steel. The rest of the job was done with the floor jack and chain.

 

Sounds like your rear spring has to much arch. If it's a steel spring, you can get some arch taken out of it. If it's a fiberglass spring, make sure it has 8" spring bolts already.

 

Van Steel;

You're probably right and that assessment seems to be the consensus. I've got a composite leaf inbound and can't wait to replace the old, heavy 9-leaf.

 

Here's a dilemma that I ran into this past weekend. I followed all of the instructions. I placed both sides of the car on jack stands and removed one wheel. I left the shock connected on both sides. I clamped side #1 and started to jack up the leaf spring. Immediately I began to raise the car off of the jack stand without pushing the spring up at all. What gives?.....or doesn't give? Should I have disconnected the shock from the trailing arm first?

I'm thinking that what I experienced is what I've known all along... My steel leaf spring is over sprung.

I thrown myself on the always appreciated guidance of my fellow forum members..... HELP!!!

 

I have read elsewhere about using the "chain and jack" method mentioned earlier in this thread. Could someone please explain exactly what to do with the chain.. how heavy a chain, how to connect the links etc. Thanks!

 

I received my composite rear and started the swap. What I found which was hard to imagine for me until I experienced it myself was how much the leaf weighed. WOW! The other thing I noticed was that all of the leafs are curved, instead of the top short springs being flat.

I'm trying to do this swap without help and almost had the spring bolted up to the diff until I remembered that the heat shield was on my bench. GRRRRR! Then I had expended so much energy that I gave in last night. I'll try again tonight.

I'm changing two variables (spring and leaf-to-trailing arm bolts) which worries me. The rear end actually sat up almost 30.5". The 8" VBP bolts that I'm using is the second variable that is worrying me since I really don't know how low the car will be until I get it off of the jack stands.

What you are seeing in the pic is a 9-leaf spring. What has me baffled is why on say, Willcox Corvette's website does the stock spring appear to have the three top leafs flat (parallel with the ground, and in this case all 9 leafs are curved. Could this be the source of the lack of "give" or rebound in the rear and why the rear was so stiff?

Anyway, this spring is out and available for purchase. I will finish up the composite leaf and leaf spring bolt replacement tonight.

 

I am trying to get the proper ride height on my 69 that right now is sitting at 29 1/8 high measured from the center on the rear wheels. The spring has been on the car at least 4 years, but was new when I bought the car. The spring installed is a Triangle Spring Co 21-225 and still has the shipping straps and label installed. I just ordered the poly bushings and 8 inch bolt to get the proper height. The tires are 225R70/15 and when they are worn out will be 245R60/15 so the space above the tire has to go.

For those of you with the original rear spring beware. I changed the spring on my 78 many years ago and it had metal spacers between the leafs and they had rusted together. It was just a matter of time before the rear spring would have broken. When I pushed on the rear of the car there was little to no suspension movement.