When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just installed 4 u-joints in my half shafts in less than an hour with zero damage and no foul language was used in the process! I scratched my head for a bit last night and came up with the easiest way yet.... take one of the old bearing caps and remove the needles. Use a die grinder and surface conditioning disc to reduce the OD until it will slip into the shaft freely. Put two or three flat washers inside the old cap as spacers. Now insert the cross, start the "top" cup and insert the space holder in the "bottom". Support the shaft horizontal over your vise anvil surface and using a hammer tap around the circumference of the cap until the cup is flush with the hole. Now you don't need three hands, and the dexterity of a surgeon to keep all things aligned! Nothing can fall out or get over extended and have the needles come adrift. Simply flip the shaft over and tap the second cap home just like the first one... seat fully using an inverted 3/8 bolt as a punch and install the clips.
Pictures Please! (at least one) I am getting ready for a drive train overhaul and this interests me but I am having a hard time picturing what you describe
Raider... I'll see if I can mock something up... didn't take pics during the install.
Blu... my vise won't open wide enough to use that method. Cheap China thing....
I just installed 4 u-joints in my half shafts in less than an hour with zero damage and no foul language was used in the process! I scratched my head for a bit last night and came up with the easiest way yet.... take one of the old bearing caps and remove the needles. Use a die grinder and surface conditioning disc to reduce the OD until it will slip into the shaft freely. Put two or three flat washers inside the old cap as spacers. Now insert the cross, start the "top" cup and insert the space holder in the "bottom". Support the shaft horizontal over your vise anvil surface and using a hammer tap around the circumference of the cap until the cup is flush with the hole. Now you don't need three hands, and the dexterity of a surgeon to keep all things aligned! Nothing can fall out or get over extended and have the needles come adrift. Simply flip the shaft over and tap the second cap home just like the first one... seat fully using an inverted 3/8 bolt as a punch and install the clips.
Pictures Please! (at least one) I am getting ready for a drive train overhaul and this interests me but I am having a hard time picturing what you describe
I may have to ask if I can take advantage of that press to remove two u-joint if I may. I installed them about 10 years ago but never drove the car, now I want to remove them to paint the half shaft.
use alum foil to wrap the u-joints and paint without removing. It stays in place, no tape and comes right off. Makes painting things a lot easier in engine bay too.
Originally Posted by Maymyvetteliveforevr
I may have to ask if I can take advantage of that press to remove two u-joint if I may. I installed them about 10 years ago but never drove the car, now I want to remove them to paint the half shaft.
Has anyone here had their driveshaft and halfshafts balanced?
I'm going to replace the u-joints on all three and was thinking of getting them balanced as well. $150 for six u-joints installed and balanced. Inland Truck Parts
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Good question!
Originally Posted by snoopykissedlucy
Has anyone here had their driveshaft and halfshafts balanced?
I'm going to replace the u-joints on all three and was thinking of getting them balanced as well. $150 for six u-joints installed and balanced. Inland Truck Parts
I made sure that I put all the parts back the same way they came off and never had any vibration but I didn't have any parts balanced.
Does keeping the front drive shaft yoke clocked even matter?
This must be pull u-joint and repair week.
This thread most certainly caught my eye. I havent changed out u-joints in over 25 years and I'm also interested in this method as well as the socket removal method if it's ok to share here or please P/M me.
I just droped my rear diff tonight and I'm sitting starring at the u-joints trying to figure how to do it. Do the auto parts store have u-joint removal tools to rent or use?
What Brand of u-joints are you going with?
Thanks, GG
They looked original, so I guess they have been there 40 years or so, and thats where they wanted to stay!!
15 ton press would no budge them even after overnight soak in penetrate!
I the end we had to cut the crosses out and individually punch out the caps.......( on the press)
Some drama but a result in the end.
If you need to cut, use a thin cutting wheel, works well
Has anyone here had their driveshaft and halfshafts balanced?
I'm going to replace the u-joints on all three and was thinking of getting them balanced as well. $150 for six u-joints installed and balanced. Inland Truck Parts
It wouldn't hurt, but where driveline balance becomes critical is when you are using a 6 speed (which you probably don't have). With the driveshaft turning twice as fast (.5 overdrive) as the crankshaft the balance has to be near perfect.
In response to OP, I've truned down an old bearing cap as well for installation. But I've also installed the needles in it. This keeps everything aligned during installation and is much easier to install.
I don't understand the use of the washers from the OP
Hi all. Sorry for no photos... dial up is a PITA and Photobucket is so loaded with extraneous content I gave up after 1/2 hour trying to load a single pic.
SteveL... the washers are there to take up enough slack so the cross cannot accidently be withdrawn far enough to allow the needles to come adrift in the cap. Until both caps are pretty far down in the bore you (well I do at least) wish for a third hand, or second person to hold the shaft steady, keep the cross in the cap so the needles remain in place, juggle the alignment and run the hammer all at the same time. My technique frees a hand from keeping tension on the cross which speeds things up considerably.
Anyone know what the part # is for the spicer/dana U-Joints on the 75' auto driveshaft. I think it maybe sp-5-790x. Any recomendation on where to get the best price. Are the u-joints different between half shaft and driveshaft? I think the driveshaft maybe 5-799x.