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Ok guys, I think I have a problem, awhile ago I ordered a half shaft from a member here on the forum. From the reading I did I needed a 3" diameter halfshaft. Well, I got around to getting it powdercoated and noticed that it is a skidge shorter than the other one I had. the U joint holes are all the same size, but here is what I am looking at. What do I need to buy or do to get a matching set??
Ok guys, I think I have a problem, awhile ago I ordered a half shaft from a member here on the forum. From the reading I did I needed a 3" diameter halfshaft. Well, I got around to getting it powdercoated and noticed that it is a skidge shorter than the other one I had. the U joint holes are all the same size, but here is what I am looking at. What do I need to buy or do to get a matching set
I believe there are two driveshaft lengths.80-82 manual trans are shorter.What is the u joint center to center dimension you need?
I don't think it matters. I have an 80's style pumpkin with an LS1/T56. The trailing arms I have are offset for wider tires but that shouldn't matter. Someone tell me what I need? Wanna do a trade Roger?
My recollection is the 63-79 length is 13 7/8 u-joint center to center and 80-82 manual shafts are 13 1/2. I don;t know why there are different lengths. I think the length does matter because the half shaft is the upper link of the suspension and locates the wheel and trailing arm. The strut rods set the camber based on that location location and the shims at the front of the trailing arm set the toe based on that location. 3/8" doesn't sound like much but it could be the difference in a tire clearing the fender or being able to set alignment to desired specs. I emphasize could make a difference. Since you have a modified set up who knows. You may want to just pick a set of halfshafts that match and see what you have.
Good to know. Since I'm using the 80-82 pumpkin in my '69, I guess I'll use the 13 1/2 half shafts. Now I need to go measure mine again, this time center too center and trade or buy a matching shaft. Phew, now to get my driveshaft fabbed up to the T/56.
Good to know. Since I'm using the 80-82 pumpkin in my '69, I guess I'll use the 13 1/2 half shafts. Now I need to go measure mine again, this time center too center and trade or buy a matching shaft. Phew, now to get my driveshaft fabbed up to the T/56.
Since you are using the 80-82 diff that's what I would try. I hope I didn't come off as a smart azz in my post. Didn't mean to. Just trying to help. I am running 17X9 rear wheels with 275/50 tires, offset trailing arms, stock rear on my 65. I have small flares but I still have a fender clearance issue. I tried putting the short shafts on to pull the tire in but it was too much. I couldn't get the toe shims back in.
Nah, its cool. Didn't come off that way on my end. I'm just glad to get this beast up and working on her again. I will post pics after my fuel and brake lines come in. I have almost a complete rolling chasis ready for my body work to begin. I'm getting excited. Time to start finishing up loose ends and start making real progress!
On an '80, what makes a difference in the auto/man half shafts? The shafts themselves are different sizes, but the pumpkin and trailing arms are all the same. What makes them different? i would think that the driveshaft would be different for obvious reasons, but half shafts? Come on GM! Help a newb out. Thanks guys.
On an '80, what makes a difference in the auto/man half shafts? The shafts themselves are different sizes, but the pumpkin and trailing arms are all the same. What makes them different? i would think that the driveshaft would be different for obvious reasons, but half shafts? Come on GM! Help a newb out. Thanks guys.
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