I wonder if they care ? I bought mine over 2 years ago so I doubt I have the steel gears. So far so good though and I am real happy with oil pressure I am getting. I am not going to worry about it though even though;

I already blew a brand new CS 144 alternator at 7000+ RPM. Internals just can't take 14-15,000 RPM, broke a wire, the guy who fixed it ( I needed it fast I can fix them too ) said the front part of the rotor got hit with WOT at the drag strip, and the back part didn't start to move fast enough so the wire between them broke. Asked me what RPM I was running and when I told him he just looked at me and shook his head

 

That why where we can make a GM block better as I am not impressed with the work GM does, Try to find a GM OEM block where both decks are 9.025 I can tell you this its not happening Look at the lifter bore placement in some blocks, some are so bad when going to an .875 lifter some lifter bores won't clean up Look at cam tunnel placement in some of the GM blocks the worst one I have see was out .016 We have had to regroove the the groove in back of the cam bearings because they were to shallow for a performance build

The big issue here I have the equipment and tooling to check a block out for locations and you don't and of cousre your going to bad mouth anything I post you always have

Restricting oil on a peformance engine is not the hot set up and I can see why guys have low oil pressure problems I have see a differance.

So if you blocked the the intake runneres 50% it would not make a differance!!!HMMM

We have done this for years and we don't seem to have problems guys talk aboput with low oil pressure HMM I wonder why. Do a search on low oil pressure see what you come up with.

If we do grind a crank we index it so the phasing and stroke are what they are suppose to be as we have seen 60 years of junk that GM has produced and that does make a differance in the end.

We are always improving over what GM has done to thier blocks!!

 

From the calls I got about broken PM gears and talking to Gearge at Mellings is most of the problems were with the 25% more volume pumps as those do put more strain on the gears compared to a STD. volume pump. And trying to push all that oil through a restricted port probably does not help either.

I have seen on the one peice rear seal blocks the pumps fit better on those blocks the the earlier blocks.

 

Thanks makes me feel better about mine, don't forget I have the Motown block but it was gone through all the way to deburring.

The decks were something like 9.35 one side and 9.30 the other and all four corners were different but my buddy went through it with a fine tooth comb and it runs like a clock up to 7500 RPM.

He has been building racing engines for over 30 years and doesn't fool around and you pay for it. He opened up the AFR spec. valve guides 1 thou because although they were as advertised he didn't like them that tight.

Everything is checked including brand new stroker ( last time I buy anything from them) Eagle rods. I got them because at the time they seemed to fit the bill, only thing is the big end was egg shaped and if you know about the stroker rod they cut down one shoulder including shaving some off the bolt.

So when you re-size them and tighten the bolts down now the bolt twists a little to far and a cormer sticks out, not really enough to cause any harm though

 

That must be a raised cam tunnel block with spread pan rails? What was the stroke that you needed to use a stroker rod.

I am not a fan of any of the eagle stuff!!!

 

No the stuff is made in China and no quality control. Callies has the Compstar stuff that is made or at least semi finished there but they have better quality control, my buddy hasn't seen much out whack with the Compstar line.

I have a 4 inch stroke crank in my 427ci small block motor and solid roller with around .640" lift.

I had to grind the shoulders myself because the rods hit the cam on my last motor, a 550HP 406ci so I didn't want to take any chances, still pretty close even with the stroker rods

 

Must be a std. cam tunnel and pan rails

We have been using alot of the Compstar ratators from Callies with zero problems seems like quality stuff. And the prices are pretty good as well.

 

That is some nice Dremmel work Blockman. I will do this match work to my cap.

 

Ok, one last time……….debate the idea, NOT THE PERSON.
EVERYONE is entitled to post their opinion on a question.
Take any pizzing contests off line or better yet, don’t start them.
If ya still got questions take it to e-mail/pm

 

To close out my participation on this topic (and in C3 Tech generally) I exchanged email with George Richmond, Technical Services Manager, Melling Tool Company. He advised that the M55A is acceptable for "mild" performance use (his italics). We discussed a definition for mild.

I think in terms of HP/CID as a rule of thumb on build level, so I offered 1 HP/CID as a guideline. George agreed that was a good breakpoint between the OEM (M55) Series and the Melling Select Series.

I'll contine to use the Melling Selects in anything other than a stock overhaul as a < $50 cost differential seems like false economy to me.

'nuff said