1980 Rear Wrecked - Replace with donor!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 18
From: Dallas Texas
1980 Rear Wrecked - Replace with donor!
Guys
Bought a 1980 wrecked in the rear...doors forward is good..
also have a donor rear from a different 80 complete with rear glass, complete up to doors... are any diagrams available to show how body is assembled so I know where to cut from original to mate donor?
Thansk
Bought a 1980 wrecked in the rear...doors forward is good..
also have a donor rear from a different 80 complete with rear glass, complete up to doors... are any diagrams available to show how body is assembled so I know where to cut from original to mate donor?
Thansk
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Guys
Bought a 1980 wrecked in the rear...doors forward is good..
also have a donor rear from a different 80 complete with rear glass, complete up to doors... are any diagrams available to show how body is assembled so I know where to cut from original to mate donor?
Thansk
Bought a 1980 wrecked in the rear...doors forward is good..
also have a donor rear from a different 80 complete with rear glass, complete up to doors... are any diagrams available to show how body is assembled so I know where to cut from original to mate donor?
Thansk
I've seen some spliced at the back end of the rocker panel, just before the rear pillar. Are you trying to keep the original birdcage intact?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 3
From: Savannah GA
Birdcage splicing is almost as difficult as gene splicing. The entire body is shrink wrapped, riveted and glued to the cage. Your proposed repair will require dissecting the body to it's elemental componentry, then rebuilding it from scratch. Not to mention that the original frame is almost certainly deformed in some fashion from the accident...probably both shortened and twisted. You have a real project on your hands!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
You can cut the rockers almost anywhere from the front pillars back depending where it still is straight.
Cut the glass covering the rockers about 6" forward of where you plan to weld the rocker on the good front
On the good rear do the same, but cut back toward the rear a bit.
Save the glass pieces, you will want to splice them together later or try to salvage pieces long enough first, but you get the idea.
Then cut all the way thru the metal rockers and metal floor preferrably between the shifter and emergency mounts.
Use a sawzall with 18tpi.
Top beam is your choice.
Leaving the doors mounted is ideal for mating purposes as well as using the t tops and lots of measuring and clamping.
The only real glass work involved is the rocker covering.
Use a 4" angle grinder to trim metal to butt fit.
Ideally tig is best with accomplished welder (don't have to do bottom side and possibly no grinding), then mig and even flame will do.
Take rockers in a few spots and tunnel, then fit doors and tops before final welding.
Leave the wiring harness completely intact from the good front.
No need to remove anything more than is directly in the way of the cuts or pieces attached to that.
If both cars were the same color you would have a 10 footer when done with no paint.
Cut the glass covering the rockers about 6" forward of where you plan to weld the rocker on the good front
On the good rear do the same, but cut back toward the rear a bit.
Save the glass pieces, you will want to splice them together later or try to salvage pieces long enough first, but you get the idea.
Then cut all the way thru the metal rockers and metal floor preferrably between the shifter and emergency mounts.
Use a sawzall with 18tpi.
Top beam is your choice.
Leaving the doors mounted is ideal for mating purposes as well as using the t tops and lots of measuring and clamping.
The only real glass work involved is the rocker covering.
Use a 4" angle grinder to trim metal to butt fit.
Ideally tig is best with accomplished welder (don't have to do bottom side and possibly no grinding), then mig and even flame will do.
Take rockers in a few spots and tunnel, then fit doors and tops before final welding.
Leave the wiring harness completely intact from the good front.
No need to remove anything more than is directly in the way of the cuts or pieces attached to that.
If both cars were the same color you would have a 10 footer when done with no paint.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
How whacked up is the rear ended car? If the underbody is in good shape, all you need to do is swap fenders and rear surround panel. Sure would save a lot of SawZ-All blades.
Underbody with rear panels not yet installed.
Underbody with rear panels not yet installed.
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 551
From: Seattle Washington
I don't mean to be the Bearer of Bad news but if Your going to Swap in a new Frame, Splice two Bird Cages and then Fiberglass and Paint Your going to end up with more Labor than any 1980 is ever going to be worth. I have seen some 1980 project Cars with Complete Bodys on Craigs list for 2k. You could buy one of these and transfer what ever from Your Rolled Car and Paint it way way easyer.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Manahawkin NJ
Splicing a birdcage is easier then stretching a Caddy into a Limo and that's done all the time. I have a good book on how to remove and replace the panels from the 'cage. I will post the name of the book tomorrow.
Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 737
Likes: 3
From: Pennington NJ
Will
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Manahawkin NJ
These are the best books I have ever found on how to remove and replace the panels on a Vette http://www.glas-ra.com/v3_4.html
Only problem is I almost **** when I saw the price. I will look to see which volume deals with the rear quarters and deck
Only problem is I almost **** when I saw the price. I will look to see which volume deals with the rear quarters and deck
Last edited by Tom Sarno; Oct 4, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
