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But, I was thinking of having one of those steel (or billet) end caps installed while I have the rear diff being rebuilt.
Does anyone know where I can purchase one?
Tracy Raceing is one who provides these. This requires some Machine work and unless Your Shop has done this before I'd send it to them to have it done. There are mixed feelings on how much good this dose, However with improper Fitting of the Cap(s) it will defently be worse.
Most people consider the U-Joints as the weakest part of the Rear end of the 80'-82 Dana 44. So You really want to change to Spicer Brand 1350 U-joints. Unless Your Car was a 4-speed orignaly then You need to change the Axel Flanges, 1/2 Shafts and Yokes to do the conversion. Yes I sead Yokes the same ones You are changing now in Your Rebuild. So now would be the Time to do it once and for all.
If You search the site there is more info on all of this.
There is only one person I would trust machining and installing a steel cap in an aluminum diff, and he is right here on the forum. He's been doing it for a while now, and he has all the jigs set up. Check out this monster...
IIRC Bee Jay and 69427 have both done the 10-bolt / batwing adaptation, so I'll drop them a VM to see if they'll join in since I'm not 100% up on it. Doesn't look that difficult.
Been out of town for a couple weeks, so it looks like BeeJay beat me to the punch.
My installation was similar, just different mounting tab locations due to narrowing the batwing to clear the C4 suspension.
There is only one person I would trust machining and installing a steel cap in an aluminum diff, and he is right here on the forum. He's been doing it for a while now, and he has all the jigs set up. Check out this monster...
If you want more info, you are welcome to PM me.
Why the steel cap on only one side. Seems to be plenty of room to do the other side. I would think that would help stiffen it up.
There's no need for a steel cap on the right side. Under load all the force is being applied to the cap on the left side. On the right side all the force is applied into the case.
You can't buy a cap an install it like an iron diff. The iron diff uses the case to handle all the lateral force of the carrier. The Dana uses just the cap. The steel cap is machined to use the case for support also. None of the 80-82 cases are machined inside except for the bearing bores so a universal cap won't work. The case has to be machined and then each cap is made for the case.
The Dana is by no means a weak unit. It's only downfall is the design of the aluminum cap. The caps vary in thickness as much as .200 which is why some Dana diffs handle 500 hp and some break with 200 hp.
Mike
There's no need for a steel cap on the right side. Under load all the force is being applied to the cap on the left side. On the right side all the force is applied into the case.
You can't buy a cap an install it like an iron diff. The iron diff uses the case to handle all the lateral force of the carrier. The Dana uses just the cap. The steel cap is machined to use the case for support also. None of the 80-82 cases are machined inside except for the bearing bores so a universal cap won't work. The case has to be machined and then each cap is made for the case.
The Dana is by no means a weak unit. It's only downfall is the design of the aluminum cap. The caps vary in thickness as much as .200 which is why some Dana diffs handle 500 hp and some break with 200 hp.
Mike
This is the only way to go with the aluminum differential.
Ask me how I know!
I now have to install a cage to be able to return to a couple NHRA sanctioned drag strips!!!