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I have a 76 four speed L-82 with about 90,000 miles
Is this something I can do in my garage, given a reasonable amount of mechanical ability and hand tools. Or will I end up with a big mess and need a tow to get back on the road?
You'll need a staking tool to stake the bushing end ring in place. If the trialing arms have never been out you'll need to consider doing the bearings, u-joints and parking brake shoes/hardware.
It's the old one thing leads to another thing common to all C-3's
Send me a PM and I'll give you the info on a top notch person for trailing arms.
I've done this and have a pretty decent write-up including photos. Do a search and you'll find plenty of information about it. You must use the staking tool - you can borrow, rent or buy but it is necessary for the job.
David
There's an aftermarket Poly bushing kit that comes with it's own little stakeing tool.
IMHO doing the TA bushings and rear wheel bearings was about the most miserable job I've ever done to that car. (The only worse job is removing the body, I hear)
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Oct 3, 2010 at 12:13 PM.
I did the bushings on my 80 a couple of years back and had never done it before. No special tools and used the Polyurethane bushings and the tool that came with them. Took time but was not technically difficult. I was lucky- my trailing arm bolt was not rusted in the hole so a few hard taps and it slid right out. You will either need to mark the position of the trailing arm cross car relative to the frame (to keep the same alignment) or plan to get an alignment when you are done. I scribed a line on the bodyside and on the trailing arm. So when I put it back together I just kept the alignment of the lines straight and I was all set as I put the shims back in.
The other hard part is getting the TA bolt back in. I drilled a small hole thru the tip tied fishing line to the bolt- threaded the line thru the fram-trailing arm- back thru the frame and then pulled the bolt up to the frame- and with a little of wiggling of the trailing arm and pulling the string- I was able to get the bolt most of the way in. One trick is that the TA needs to be close to ride height position so the holes all line up without interference.
They help reduce the trailing throttle oversteer. No decrease in ride comfort. BTW: I agree with the above suggestion of having the bearings serviced and the use stainless steel parking brake components.