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I just swapped my street avenger for an AED built 750 HO double pumper. I've got about 20 miles on it but can say it's the best carb I've ever ran. AED's carb builder told me very little if any tuning would be needed out of the box, and he was right. I bolted it on, set the idle, attempted to adjust the idle screws but ended with them back exactly where they started. With no choke and a double pumper, I expected to give up some starting ease, idle, and street manners. This carb actually improved all those- starts and idles better, car is smoother through all rpms, and power is noticably up with the primary and secondaries dead on right out of the box. The car even sounds different! I'm sure there is room for improvements with tuning, but it's so close I couldn't get it any better without a dyno. It was $500, which is well more than a standard double pumper (which I've also owned), but it was worth every penny. I know I'm sounding like a commercial, but I shopped and read and looked around a lot before picking a carb, and the above info would have been useful to me when shopping so I'm hoping it helps someone else's decision.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
AED Carbs have a good name and they guy there was probably right when he said it would run fine out of the box. Mine runs fine really rich to getting pretty lean so there is no way of knowing what your A/F is at idle, cruise or WOT without an A/F sensor and meter.
I would take it to an chassis dyno, sure you can see what the max power is but I would ask them to check A/F at cruise ( below 2500 ) and hard throttle and WOT and see where you are. You can be all over the place and the motor will seem to run fine. My previous 550HP 406ci was shooting up to 16-17:1 at WOT and could have ruined the motor before I bought a LM-1 to see what was going on and it took me many months to figure out what needed to be changed to fix this WOT lean condition
I have an AED 850 dbl pumper carb on a Pontiac 455, it was more than $500 when I bought it. I kind of wish I had put on a carb that has a choke after living with it for 10 years.
Higher is leaner yes, The first number is the parts of air, second is parts of fuel. I have found a chassis dyno and tuning shop and am doing just what you suggested Motorhead. AED has a dyno and does this work, but they said they have a contract with someone for development or research or something and their dyno shop is rented for at least the end of the year working on this project.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
16-17:1 is very lean and you can ruin your motor running that lean at WOT. The thing was, it felt fine, no detonation and it ran good up to 6500RPM. I bought the LM-1 and it shocked the sh*t out of me.
Now for the hard part, it took me almost 2 years to figure out how to tune that out. I had to buy blank air bleeds, real real tiny pin drills etc.
Allot of trial and effort and I learned things about carbs that not many know any more because the guys that knew anything beyond changing squirters and jets are getting less and less eveyday.
I was fortunate to meet a guy online that forgot more about carbs than I knew and before I knew it I was drilling air bleeds and PVCR's and changing IFR's HSAB's and on and on.
Like I say I was lucky to come across this guy because compared to him no one, and I mean no one knew squat about a carburetor and especially about why mine was going lean like that.
I hope the original poster can find someone that knows carbs or on the other hand hopefully his carb is close to begin with and only needs a few minor adjustments
I fully understand. I did a lot jetting with dirt bikes in my younger days. No where near as complicated but I do know that the right setup can mean day or night. So much appreciation for you input. I been doing much research and reading on jetting and tuning my holley. I just received my FAST AF kit with duals. Will install this weekend. I read the instructions but very little info. Again many thanks