My brake lights (aka stop lights) stopped working again, so I thought I would search thru the archives for prior discussions on the subject. i remember MELVIN posted about it not too long ago.

First of all, for the entertainment of everybody else, note that the same $8 switch was used from 1958 - 1979, EXCEPT 1968 which uses a different type of switch that costs $52!!! We 68 owners are used to one year only parts, but i think it is pretty unusual to have a unique part while 10 model years previous and 12 model years following all use the same part!! :mad:

So I was wondering if it was possible to use the other type of switch, and sure enough CF6873 (Craig) posted that he had done so.

However..... my biggest problem right now is that even with the drivers seat out i cant get up under the dash. I am somewhat claustrophobic and stiff, and cannot lie on my back with my head up under the dash. This is what i pay other people to do. Havent completely given up yet, but I am getting there. MJ

 

Good luck! Go 68! :cheers:

 

Jack, Its a pain for sure. You must remove the drivers seat, and even then, its a pain.

The swicth you mentioned will not work. It takes a fitting that it screws in, thats welded on the brake pedal. and a little tab that engaes the plunger.

For about a year, I used a brake switch thats available at any motorcycle shop.

Its a brakes light switch that was/is used on many bikes, especially custom ones. All it is is a small unit about the size of a quarter, has a hole on the end, and has 2 posts on it for the wires, and a little pull lever with a spring on it.

I used a flex tie that attaches goes thru the hole on the switch, and around the brake pedal arm. Mount it high up the brake pedal arm
The wires attach to the switch on this end

The other end, a flex tie goes on the end of the spring, and around the steering column. It worked great for about a year. Switch costs about $6, and you couldnt see it.

Go to any Harley shop. and ask for aftermarket, mechanical brake lite switches, and take a look

 

Yikes!! Mine works presently....and now I hope it really does for the long term!! Good luck with the replacement effort!! Another '68 only thing to dread going wrong.....!! :cheers:

 

It's possible the switch is not bad, but has moved away from the stop on the brake pedal arm. The first thing the repair person should do (you, or the hire of your choice) would be to move the switch back into contact with the arm and tighten it down. I would also pull the fuse and take a good look at it. I've seen blown fuses which looked fine in the fuse block, but were goners when pulled out and inspected in the light of day. Good luck.
:)

 

Mark, if you do find a switch, I'll put it in for you. I'm under my dash all the time, and I don't even take the seat out! Darn '68 2-piece throttle level is always loosening up. I have permanent rocker panel dents in my back :lol:

-Joe

 

:( - sorry to hear about your problems with the brakes.....
Mine was the 'opposite' - I had brake lights that would 'stick' and not go off until you 'raised' the brake pedal.
When I had my diff./carrier support bushing replaced, the guy at the shop adjusted it with no charge. Now my pedal feels 'firm' and the lights work like they should. :chevy Good luck & GO '68 ! :seeya :flag

 

wow, my memory was just 'jarred' loose.

I remember about 3 1/2 years ago shortly after buying my '68 and taking it to my dad's house (he's an electrical engineer) ...we took the switch out - found out it cost $52 to replace so my dad took it apart an rebuilt it ! :D
They're really simple and next we went through all the grounds on the tail-lights to assure good contact. Somehow it seems eons ago when we did this ! :lol:
Although re-installation was a pain in the butt ! :mad - my back still hurts from bending over the front seat and twisting myself just to get under the dash.... :seeya

 

thanks, thanks, yes, will try that, and thanks!
still available under original part #

1993446
All
SWITCH
1
$83.92
$58.75
$41.96
$0.00


and what do you think of this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eb...802384&r=0&t=0

looks like its pointing in the wrong direction. already ordered from ZIP. If I dont need it I can always sell it on ebay for $75. MJ

 

Been there. done that!!! The switch can be replaced with the seat in. It as a real pita though.

 

The first time my stop light switch failed was 1993 and I was at Ocean City MD ,Corvette Weekend. My car failed tech inspection when I was going to run the rallye. No problem right? I called the local Chev dealer and got the bad news. I took the switch out and somehow doctored it enough to get to get home. I then found out that a certain Dodge that uses the same design switch with a different mount so I dissasembled both switches and exchanged the guts. It worked great until 1995 and guess where I was when it failed. Sure enough, OC MD. What are the chances? This time I borrowed a friends 81 to run the rallye and had another friend follow me home so I didn't get rear ended.

This is when I thought there has to be a better way, So I installed the common plunger type switch. IT is very simple to install. I got a piece of 1/16" steel about 2" X 4" and bent it in a 90 degree. Then drill a hole in each side. One for the mounting , using a bolt from the steering column support. The other hole holds the switch, centered on the brake pedal arm. I used 2 nuts on the switch, one on each side of the bracket to adjust the depth of the plunger. I did not have to take out the seat. I hope this helps. It has worked great ever since and even if I have to replace it I could in ten minutes for $10. Craig :cheers:

 

Craig, thanks for the description. I might try it, just for fun. I have already ordered the expensive switch, but I love doing stuff like that, especially if you cant see it under the dash. :) Also posed the question over in Factory correct: If it is a 1 year only 68 corvette part..... why are they still making it under the same part# ??? MJ