Fire!!!
I have Sanderson Block Hugger shorty headers. They cost me about 200 bucks, soooo......I'd LIKE to NOT have to replace those. They are good, decent quality headers. Plus, the collecters are very high off the ground, unlike mid and full length headers, which is big for me.
I have over the valve cover spark pugs with a chevy bow tie vortec style loom.
Does header wrap really work? How hard is it to put on, because there is not a lot of room between pipes on the headers. I really am tired of trying "solutions" that don't work.
I also have short style accell spark pugs, to make a little more space between the boots and the header pipes. I don't think that actually helped much, lol.
Thoughts?

The wire that got torched this morning is cylinder 1. Which I thought was far enough away. No way it touched. Had to have been ambient heat.
It DID take me quite a few turns of the key to get it started (it was about 45 degrees this morning). Could that cause a fire? No, right?
Maybe longer wires needed? Sounds like you need new wires anyway...or at least one!
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If the boots or wires actually touch the exhaust they will fail.
Use a different boot style, or longer wire to come in at a different angle, and then ensure all the wires are held in place to eliminate possibility of touching.
I had this issue with my new crate engine....
after replacing the plug wires and boots several times, and even fitting those high temp plug boot covers, it was not reliable.
In the end I had some custom headers built to solve all the issues of plug and wire clearance, easy access to plugs for changing, better flow and excellent ground clearance.
No problems since.
The plug wires were MSD street fire wires. Anyone know a decent brand for under 100 bucks? I was NOT impressed with the street fires, they came with a fouled boot, had to replace it after 1 day of driving.
I'm not against making a custom set of wires, so I can alternate boot angles, so, say, cylinder 1, 2, 7. and 8 can have a straight boot, and go out and over the headers, or something....
But what's a good brand? SBC, so nothing over 8.5mm. Prefer black...

Also, has anyone ever actually used header wrap, how hard was it, and did it work?
Reroute your plug wires, or use different style of boots and or use shorter plugs to get the clearance required to save your leads from premature failure.
If they are touching they WILL fail. Been there, done that!
The discolouration is already an indication that the plug wire has had molecular deterioration which will have affected its properties.
You will find that it WILL be quite brittle in that white area.
If its working at the moment, you'll find it will more than likely fail the next time you remove the boot to check the plug (s).
Reroute your plug wires, or use different style of boots and or use shorter plugs to get the clearance required to save your leads from premature failure.
If they are touching they WILL fail. Been there, done that!
The discolouration is already an indication that the plug wire has had molecular deterioration which will have affected its properties.
You will find that it WILL be quite brittle in that white area.
If its working at the moment, you'll find it will more than likely fail the next time you remove the boot to check the plug (s).
Does header wrap really work? [/QUOTE]
good way to have a vette bbq, all the racers stopped using the wrap by my place, absorbs oil and well makes good for fires. my brother in laws modified being a victim along with others
Looking at your motor, it appears you have adequate clearance of the wires from the headers, and the heat shield covers provide additional insulation for good measure.
my post was directed to Rod7515.
His plug wires are touching exhaust, and ARE discoloured.
Putting on heat shield covers in his situation will not eliminate his problem.
The heat cover will be hard up on the exhaust, and will still pass heat through to the wire inside.
Like I said... been there and done that and had to replace several expensive "heat resistant" lead sets to eventually solve the problem.
YOU NEED TO HAVE A CLEARANCE (air gap) between the plug wires and the exhaust system to provide reliable long term serviceability of your plug wires and boots.

















HOLY CRAP!!