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Intake manifold leak (1968)

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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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Default Intake manifold leak (1968)

Hello, I just built up my engine(327) with some new parts ... intake manifold, carb and everything that go's along with them... I just got my distributor put together and was trying to tune it. It is the first time it has been started since all the new part were added. During the tuning I noticed a little smoke from the rear wall .... so I looked and seen anti-freeze! So Im guessing I did not put enough compound on the back wall So I guess my question is can do anything to fix it without taking everything back off? Thank you all for your help

Adam

Last edited by capth4u; Oct 14, 2010 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Adam,
If your getting antifreeze from the back on the china wall, then you've got antifreeze in your oil. The china wall should never see antifreeze. It only sees oil. That's your first problem. Sounds like you don't have your intake torqued down to specs and coolant is leaking past the water jacket passage between the head and the intake. I would change the oil, re-torque all your intake bolts by manufacturer order and torque setting and try again. Good luck!
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by brando1118
Adam,
If your getting antifreeze from the back on the china wall, then you've got antifreeze in your oil. The china wall should never see antifreeze. It only sees oil. That's your first problem. Sounds like you don't have your intake torqued down to specs and coolant is leaking past the water jacket passage between the head and the intake. I would change the oil, re-torque all your intake bolts by manufacturer order and torque setting and try again. Good luck!
Thank you for that information... I did not torque the bolts down to a certain lbs... So that make sense! So it is ok to tighten the bolts after the silicone is dried? I will have to look up the torque lbs for the manifold. Thank you
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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I rebuilt my stock 1968 L79 327 motor .
Intake manifold bolts should be torqued to 30 foot lbs but you have to follow a certain sequence starting from the center of the manifold and working outward in a circle.
Threads should be CLEAN & DRY to get correct torque.
Kurt
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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I would not try and salvage an intake gasket set that has already shown a leak. The $15-$20 for new gaskets seems cheap compared to fighting a recurrent leak.
I use a thin bead of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive around the water jackets- just to hold the gaskets in place, and then a fat bead of RTV on the china walls. After wiping the whole thing down with alcohol to remove all traces of oil.
When you torque the intake, start in the center and work a circle to the ends- double check, but if IIRC, the torque is 25-35 ft-lbs.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Adam,
TimAT is right. Do it over again, do it right and you will feel better about it and have no worries in the long term. I use Gasgacinch on my felpro 1207 intake manifold gaskets on my sbc early block on the head side only. I use the "Right Stuff" on the china walls. Don't know if you have vortec heads on that 327 or not so make sure you order the right intake manifold gasket for your application. You really really need to get the install instructions for your particular intake manifold. If it's an edelbrock aluminum their manuals are available for download. Even if you can't locate the manual for your particular application, the Edelbrock manuals are very informative. This is if you have an aluminum intake ONLY and not an iron intake. If you have an iron intake, just Google it. Tons of stuff for the sbc. Don't forget to torque wrench it, torque it again and follow up one more time just for good measure. The intake gasket compresses and you will need to follow up with a couple of retorques with a correctly set, quality torque wrench. Good luck.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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I had to do my gaskets on my 68 ..3 times before I realized it was not vented properly and pusshing out...I assumed there was a vent tube like on my Dad's 62 / 327.
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