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Lots of guys have installed aluminum aftermarket heads on their motors for performance gains. I am going through the selection process now, and just wondered about the longevity of alumn heads. Anyone out there have numerous K miles on these heads, without having to frequently change/adjust/replace heads/components with normal type driving? (seals, guides, etc?) I quess I'm basicaly asking.. are aluminum heads as sturdy as iron? :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
As long as you use the correct gasket if you are swapping out iron for aluminum. The head bolts on your block were drilled for iron heads, aluminum heads should have longer bolts because of the heat sinking quality of aluminum. I remember you asking for a reputable engine builder in the Chi-town area. I am in the process of using Fast Times Motorworks. Supposedly my engine is finished, so I will let you know if it runs. They do quality work I have heard. I asked them about aluminum heads (I used AFRs 190s) and they said you just need a certain head gasket for it. My Uncle used their shop to rebuild his engine and it runs pretty well.
I decided not to have Fast Times re-work my iron, and am leaning tword the AFR 190's myself! Please do let us know the outcome of your project. BTW. Do you like the AFR's? Easy install, quality? Does the intake and header mating surfaces match up? Oh so many questions...
thanks for your imput
Ed
I am putting a 3.75 stroke crankshaft in my engine (making a 388), therefore the block needs to be milled. They are building the whole engine for me. I brought them all the parts. I went with an Edelbrok RPM Performer intake manifold for a Q-jet and a 268XE Comp Cams camshaft. Full roller rockers are 1.6:1. I also told them to keep compression to around 10:1. I called the sales rep at Air Flow Research (Dave) and told him what I planned to do. I would recommend this before buying parts and finding out they aren't compatable. The rep at AFR told me going with the 190s (as opposed to 195s) will add 20-30 more lb-ft of torque at the low end, while sacrificing 4-5 hp at the top end (for all those times I am going to go 140 mph?!?!). These are really good flowing heads, esp. if you decide to go roller cam (I should have but ran out of money). As for the headers, I have Dynomax ceramic coated 1 5/8 inch into a 3 inch collector. I will let you know how they mate up as I haven't checked that out.
Hi Jazn, sounds like your motor is a lot like mine (Fast Times built 388 with AFR 190/195s). The only difference between 190 & 195s is that the 190s use a 1256 style (Performer/stock size) intake port, while the 195s use a 1205 style (Performer RPM) intake port. If you run a Performer RPM with 190s then you are creating a step down when going from the intake manifold to the head. This will hurt flow. A step up is not as bad, as it can even help with reversion. That is according to David Vizard. I'm very suprised the AFR tech told you that the 190s would get you 20-30 ft/lbs over the 195s with an RPM manifold. If I were you I'd call and speak with another tech. Some times the AFR techs seem a little ignorant about some stuff, I've spoken with them many many times. BTW I went with a XR276 (224/230 @ .050) hydraulic roller and I think I went too small. I also run the 1 5/8" dynomax headers. I used to have 3.08s and I ran a 12.8@108 with them and a 9 leaf on Radial T/As. With more tuning and getting rid of some ignition gremlins, I could have done a bit better. Thats in a 3600 lbs '76.
Rob
I talked to Jeff about it after talking to the rep and he said it was a good mate. I just verified it again, he also said it's a good engine there, which is the most he has ever said to me in one conversation so it must be good.
Anyways, we shall see.....
Wish I could've gotten that roller cam, though.
I also have the close ratio tranny and 3.55 in the back. Have to decide on a clutch now.
I wouldn't take it personally if Jeff doesn't have time to chat very often. For the past coupel fo months it's just been him and Mark Enwia doing all the work, since Chuck Samuels was out of town for almost a month racing. I just spoke with Jeff last week cause I'm bringing my block, heads, and crank back in and I asked him how busy they were. If you've been in there lately, I'm sure you 've noticed all the engines practically stacked on top of each other. They've been so busy, Jeff actually had some of his buddy's come in and help him do some grunt work - cleaning parts, etc.
I will only take it personally if I don't peel all the rubber off of my tires!!!
Actually the last time I was there, Jeff was the only dude in the shop and there was very little room to put my spare engine parts.
I am going to be bringing him a 302 engine from a Z as soon as it gets painted. That probably won't be until this winter.
Silvrr......buy an ARP set of engine bolts. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...654&prmenbr=76
Also buy some bolts that are made for Aluminum Heads.
They are different, and ask for the HEX head bolts.
you'll see why when you try to tighten the heads on ....
you aren't going to get a rachet on them :lol: trust me.
not unless you want to remove the whole rocker assembly and all... :cuss http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...709&prmenbr=76
cost around $40-50 and are well worth it....
:cheers:
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