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I decided to pull the trigger and put some nice aluminum heads in place of the stock, oval ports cast iron heads. When I was browsing Summit website I came accross these new heads called "E-Street", they are supposed to be used for the entry level build-ups so I thought they may be perfect for my application and my budget, here is the link to them :
and I'll be using a Holley street dominator open plenum intake with the stock Rochester carb. I'm looking for something close to 450 HP to the flywheel, do you think its possible with these components? , shall I consider the Performer series instead?
I looked at the three Edlebrock aluminum heads available alot, Performer, Performer RPM, E Street......with the E street being the lowest price, flow numbers in between the other two. And since I did not have a huge cam in my engine, the E Street ones seemed the best bang for the buck. Others agreed when I asked this question two months ago as well.
Only I never was able to get myself to spend the $1000 for them. I also purchased a slightly used Performer intake manifold to match the heads...I just could not do it. The other problem I had was that the block is zero decked so I would probably have to shave the manifold to fit and I just did not want to do it.
So if you get these heads...let me know how they work for you. If you need an intake, I have one sitting on the shelf....forgot the part number right now, but it is very clean, hardly used.
I never noticed that the E-street wil flow better than the Performer, thats really a big plus for the E-street. Thanks for the offer, but I already have a Holley street dominator intake that I'm going to use under my stock BB hood.
One more question, has any of you guys tried to replace the heads of a BB engine while engine installed in car? , the passenger side head is very close to the A/C box, so I'm not sure how to reach the head bolts there!
It's possible. Real PITA, but doable. The head bolts probably won't come out of the head, but you can get to them in the car. The rear headbolt on the drivers' side under the brake booster (2nd row) is an enlightening experience too.
You may need to manufacture a socket to get on some of the bolts or use a dogbone.
It's possible. Real PITA, but doable. The head bolts probably won't come out of the head, but you can get to them in the car. The rear headbolt on the drivers' side under the brake booster (2nd row) is an enlightening experience too.
You may need to manufacture a socket to get on some of the bolts or use a dogbone.
Tim, I've done tens of PITA rated jobs in this car before, so I won't complain about it. I've just took a quick look and I think I can get all the bolts out, but the question here is how I'm going to torque them to specs after installation, it seems I can't get the torque wrench to some of the hard to reach bolts.
IT can be a challenge. Try this http://www.google.com/products/catal...CBUQ8wIwATgA#p
I know you're in Doha and sometimes getting stuff can be a challenge. With one of these adapters you can offset the torque wrench head 2" and still get the correct torque. Takes a bit of calculations if you can't get the whole thing 90*, but sometimes it's the only way.
I'd sure look at the Brodix Race Rite series or the new AFR ovals if you're looking into new heads.
But honestly...the iron ovals can make that kind of HP with only modest work.
JIM
Jim, the problem with Brodix and AFR heads is their large combustion chambers, I only have a 10.5 cc dome and with these 119 cc chambers so my static CR will be around 8.5, which is too low for aluminum heads, thats why I'm looking at 110 cc heads instead.
I think my bottle nick is the camshaft, do you think I can rise the HP with that mild cam?
One more note to all our engine gurus : I'm planning to buy the bare heads and want to do the valve lapping and valve guide sizing using a suitable sizing ball, do you think this is a good practice or shall I just go ahead and buy the assembled ones?
That was with a "shop" holley as my Q jet was still getting worked on. Without the long tube headers and with the MacJacks shorties it put out 496! I am real happy! The motor displaces 489 CID.
A 10.5cc dome is going to give you just under 9:1 - have what you have milled to about 114cc's and you'll be fine at about 9.4:1. Have some bowl work and cleanup and you'll be set.
Get some Doan's Backache Pills and a weight belt, you're gonna need 'em after lifting those heavy suckers off of the engine and over the fender!
Hamad, if it is in the budget, I would go with the AFR 265 ovals, have them angle milled from AFR to get them as small as possible. Home port match your intake to them. I think even with your small cam you will gain 40-50hp pretty easy over your stock heads. A cam swap would net you another 40-50hp.... The bottle neck will be your intake.
Sounds like a fun project....I can see some AFR ovals, 233/241 Voodoo hyd roller,Rpm air gap, Holley 850 in your future.....lol. A good 500hp+ combo...
Hamad, if it is in the budget, I would go with the AFR 265 ovals, have them angle milled from AFR to get them as small as possible. Home port match your intake to them. I think even with your small cam you will gain 40-50hp pretty easy over your stock heads. A cam swap would net you another 40-50hp.... The bottle neck will be your intake.
Sounds like a fun project....I can see some AFR ovals, 233/241 Voodoo hyd roller,Rpm air gap, Holley 850 in your future.....lol. A good 500hp+ combo...
I almost pulled the trigger on a set of Edelbrock E-Street assembled heads with a Lunati 232/242 hyd. roller camshaft, but then if I get into the 500-ish HP, I may have to upgrade the rear-end, which is another 2-3K, and if I would spend that much of in to my car, then I would paint it instead (it really needs a paint job).
I found a very nice looking 1970 camaro for a good price, and I may save the cash for the 2nd gen camaro instead. If the car will be still available in a month or so then I'll be having the enough cash for it and I'll keep the engine upgrade project for next year or so.
A 10.5cc dome is going to give you just under 9:1 - have what you have milled to about 114cc's and you'll be fine at about 9.4:1. Have some bowl work and cleanup and you'll be set.
Get some Doan's Backache Pills and a weight belt, you're gonna need 'em after lifting those heavy suckers off of the engine and over the fender!
10-4 to the Doans. Bent over and lifting those heavy mugs almost levers you off your feet.
Jim, the problem with Brodix and AFR heads is their large combustion chambers, I only have a 10.5 cc dome and with these 119 cc chambers so my static CR will be around 8.5, which is too low for aluminum heads, thats why I'm looking at 110 cc heads instead.
I think my bottle nick is the camshaft, do you think I can rise the HP with that mild cam?
The small loss in power from a bit lower compression, ~2% in this case, would be more than made up for by the increased flow offered by the Brodix or especially the AFR heads. They both can be flat milled to ~114cc or so if compression is a concern.
BTW, the E-street, Performer, and RPM head are all the same casting and all flow essentially the same (it is the GMPP BBC roval head as well). The difference between the three is the E-street doesn't have the intake or exhaust ports cnc matched to the gaskets while the other two do. The Performer has the exhaust crossover port drilled so it is 50-state legal & carries a CARB EO. It is also offered in a milled version with 100 cc comb. chambers. The RPM head is IDENTICAL to the performer head w/o the crossover drilled.
Last edited by Ben Lurkin; Oct 21, 2010 at 01:08 AM.