I went out in the vette with my buddy tonight it didnt turn out to good. I was rolling in 1st gear at 15mph and punched it, I started to spin the tires and went to smack 2nd quick and boom! the motor revved and It felt like I missed a shift but it was def in gear. Then the transmission started screaming and I popped it in neutral and coasted into a car dealership parking lot. With the clutch to the floor the car idled fine and there wasnt any strange noises. But as soon as i let the clutch up it felt like someone was kicking thru the floor. I looking under the car and gear oil was leaking out of the trans case like crazy. My buddy and I walked down the street and saw 15-20ft rubber marks and then about 500ft of oil marks going all the way to the parked vette.

The trans is a rebuilt borg warner super t-10, hays street/strip clutch, and 275/60/15 nitto drag radials. motor makes 465hp and 520'lbs torque. The tranny lasted one summer of hard driving. I was planning on going to track on sat and was practicing launching the car for the past few days. before I got the drag radials I finished off my street tires with a few heavy linelock 1st-4th gear burnouts.

I blew my old borg warner trans last summer in my other vette. I need to upgrade to a strong manual transmission that can handle my power level. I'll be looking into a m22 by autogear.

 

I was lucky that the buddy works for a hotrod shop and he has access to a flatbed. We walked to the 1.5mile back to my house, drove to his shop and got the flatbed. So at least I didnt have to use AAA and wait around all night.

I have another borg warner super T-10 trans that is original for my car. I could swap it in this week and still go racing on Sat. however that would probably result in blown tranny number 3.

Whats the torque rating on a borg warner?

 

I can identify with you, cept I blew both of my 4 speeds in 3rd gear at about 70 mph. I switched to a 4l80e and so far so good plus the overdrive is great for cruising but probably not as good for drag racing. I am running around 800 ft lbs torque with a twin turbo 468 big block and 3.08 gears. Both of mine blew just rolling into the throttle in third gear. After about 70 mph, the tires finally get traction and then you find the next weak link. I would have thought super t-10's were tougher than that, I have had one in my 69 amx that I have owned since 1977 and its still going strong behind a mildly built 390.

 

I'd have to guess the Super T-10's torque rating is about 50-100 ft/lbs LESS than what you're making.

That's my biggest fear- the rear tires will someday decide to stick just as i'm jumping on the gas.

 

Instead of taking dummy steps........ why keep putting in crap? You can bust anything with big slicks and being stupid. I have a 600 foot pound tranny and big slicks, but i know it has limitations

 

Why not spend the money on a TKO 600? Keisler will give you a warranty with it..

 

Find a nodular case and midplate for the ST-10, it'll be about as strong as the Muncie you're referring to.

 

 

What do you mean by 1st - 4th gear linelock burnouts? Are you shifting a manual trans while the linelock is holding the car in place? You do realize that the wheels stop while you're shifting - unlike shifting an automatic during a burnout. So its like popping the clutch with the trans in 4th gear, at zero mph. Thats pretty hard on the trans.

 

I have one of the Autogear super case M22w best part of this trans is its preety much a bolt in and you get the cool gear wyne.
What is the first gear ratio of a super t10 2.56 for the M22w.

 

After my third trans I went to a th400, full manual reverse VB with a 3000 stall. Shifts like a stick, but no clutch. Been in a few years now, but I just went to 295 55 15 MT drag radials......so time will tell.

Last time I really got into it I was showing a Mustang that chirped his tires what a real burn out was........So much smoke the Mustang disappeared in the clouds.......

 

I can shift fast enough that the rear wheels don't even slow down on a line lock burn out. You have allot of mass rotating. I need to do a video. But I shift into 3rd and get the speedo up to 90 mph and hold it for about three seconds and let off the line lock so the car moves forward onto dry surface and then I let off on the gas petal and the car hooks up and moves you towards the line. I push in the clutch, brake, and shift down to first to inch up to set the lights.

 

I was reading on 5speeds.com that the new custom M22 4speeds can be built to handle up to 700hp now. They are built with an autogear "super case", roller 1st gear, straight cut gears made in italy, and iron mid plates. You can get them in close ratio, wide ratio, or extra wide ratio.

2.20 1st
2.56 1st
2.98 1st

My super t-10 is a wide with a 2.64 1st gear ratio. I would be interested in the M-22 with a 2.56 or 2.98. I think the cost of these m-22 are around $1800-$2000.

 

I would love to have a tko 600 but i cant afford to spend $3500. I dont really need an OD anyway i mainly just use the vette on weekends to cruise around town and rip up the backroads. I've never driven the car farther then 30-40miles away from home. When i go to the track, my buddy can trailer me there.

 

Usually I put linelock on, drop clutch in 1st and shift 2nd quick to keep the rpms lower when heating the tires. When i just messing around and wasting the old tires, I also hit 3rd and 4th. I dont think the tires stopped spinning between shifts though, only takes a split second to grab the next gear. It probably def wasnt good for the tranny but i only did 1 massive burnout the rest were just quick 10-15sec.

 

I have two friends with similar auto set ups as you. My buddy has a 70 nova with 500hp sbc which he also sprays a 200hp shot on and he broke 2-3 4speeds before swapping to the th400. My other buddy has a 79 malibu with a 406 roller motor and has a th400 manual reverse vb and 3500rpm stall.

I really like the stick with a clutch because its fun on the street.

 

$2195 get the .82 OD with a 4.11 or 3.90 rear end and they are lots of fun and you learn to shift really fast.

I've seen the TKO 600 behind 1000 hp turbo motors

http://www.jegs.com/p/Steeda/Tremec-...46657/10002/-1

 

That TKO I was selling would have been the ticket. Honestly though the 600 is a stronger trans and the gear ratios are better for you. I agree with gkull on this. Just get the TKO and not the kit. So what if the shifter is not in the correct location. You can modify it to fit or modify your console. I don't think you are worried about originality. Know you are making some power.

 

I blew up 2 Muncie wide ratio transmissions, the first time it was second gear, the second time was the input shaft. So I went to liberty gears and had Paul build me an m21 with a steel mid plate and a full bushings on the cluster side of the case, shot peened the case. Great trans, shifts great, found out with my combo that a wide ratio is better, I now have a beautiful m21 that I have no use for as I had liberty rebuild the m20 wide ratio with the same case treatment and the maserio gears. Btw, maserio moved from Italy to china, so you can no longer get the Italian gear sets, Paul at liberty liked the new maserIo gears , he could tell they were from him, don't ask me how, but he can. The gear set alone is $650. The key is the steel mid plate and bushed case. So, I do have a real nice m21 trans I will let go for $1'ooo
Morgan
313 300 1648
Jmorgan3@twmi.rr.com

 

I blew 2 Super T10's within a couple of weeks after installing the 550HP 406ci in mine a few years back They can't handle the power, they are rated at 300-325? ft/lbs depending on the first gear ration.

What happens IMHO is the aluminum case twists if too much torque is applied over a longer period of time. Both of mine seemed to blow in second if I remember correctly with my foot into it from 2000-6000RPM, the 510ft/lbs of torque over the time it takes to go from 20000-6000RPM twists the case and thereby throwing gears and everything else out of alignment

I bought a Tremec TKO 600 , problem solved