I have been trying to remove the spindle from the housing but the bearings are ON there! I cut off the shield to see if I could grab a better support but I had it in a 20 ton press 3 times and only managed to crack a couple of 6x6's wood blocks. Isprayed it with PB Blaster and will let it sit overnight but if the press won't crack it then I might have to scrap the whole thing. the spindle falnges have some rough casting on the edges with white paint covering the flanges? I have no idea where the paint came from?The edges of the flanges have some casting cracks some I'm thinking of getting the Tom's spindles. Anyone using these?
Thanks,
Gary

 

I had the same problem until I replaced the woodblocks with a steel support bracket that I welded.
Then the spindle finally gave in with a BANG that nearly teared my eardrums.
As said in another post, I'll never do that again...
(Until I'm proved wrong, slipfit is the way to go....)

 

I just did my left one this evening. The machine shop at my office had a 20 ton press. I tried using wood blocks but that was not the answer. I used some metal pieces that were laying around and that did the trick! Getting the bearings off the spindle was another story but luckily I found a bearing removal tool. A reconditioned spindle housing will run you about $75 from Zip.
Now if I can find a bearing setup tool!
Good luck.

 

Yep, the same as the above posts. Just did mine, and steel reinf holding the housing while in the press. POP! It's outa there!!
I plan to order Tom's spindles, and make my own bearing set-up tool outa old spindle. It just doesn't get any more fun than this!! :smash:

 

I hear you guys, I have disassembled 3 prior to this one without a problem. I was using the steel plates on top of the blocks to clear the spindle flange. I'll see what I have in the shop tomorrow.
Gary

 

Gary-

I have a cheap, junky 12 Ton press that I've been using for over 20 years and it has never failed me.

I use steel though.... no wood.

FWIW... I separate the spindle support from the TA (remove 4 bolts/nuts) and insert threaded rod (& nuts)
into 2 of the spindle support holes, then I use other stuff to hold it in the press while I press it apart.
The "other stuff" is up to your creativity... I have some special tools, but you can conjure up something to
hold onto the threaded rod.

Tom

 

Well I went to work today took the spindle/housing etc out of the vise and threw it against the wall 17 times, picked it up took out the 5 lb sledgehammer wacked it several more times and figured WTH, got the Bosch electric demo hammer out with a 5 lb point and it's now in 750 pieces :smash: :smash: :smash: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Ok,..... so that's not what I did. I sprayed it before I left last night with PB Blaster.Looked it over today and used a Harbor Freight $10 bearing separator under the housing and stood the press plates on end under the separator and it came right off not even a bang. I think it would have come off even with the wood blocks that Blaster really works good when you let it sit overnight. The housing and caliper bracket are pretty rusty, I'm going to fit them by hand because I don't have a sand blasting cabinet.

Tom,
I had to hammer the T arm off because it was so rusty. There must be 10 lbs of rust scale on the bench where I was working! Do you know if there are several versions of the housings out? I have another post going about the bore being smooth and the numbers being for a 65 or 75 housing not a 69? Someone had been in there a least twice before. The frozen side looks like the correct housing number, but the right is the one I questioned.That came apart easy.

I don't like the way the bearing journal looks or the edge of the flange so I'm leaning on Tom's spindles. I think they're supposed to be stronger then the original cast spindle any info on them?

Thanks,
Gary


[Modified by gtr1999, 4:31 PM 4/3/2002]

 

I just got off the phone with Tom @ Tom's differentials. He's a pretty cool guy and took the time to answer my questions. I ordered his rear spindles and US Gear 3:73's to drop in the 69 for the summer :D I asked him about the difference between the 3:70 and 3:73's he said he prefers the 3:73's because they run quieter and are stronger? I don't know but certainly trust his judgement and experience. :cheers:
Gary

 

G-

When the TA & spindle support are originally mated at the factory, the fit is an "interference" fit. Also, the 4 GM bolts are serrated and are an interference fit.... special length... fine thread.

So... separating the spindle support from the TA can be difficult if you are the first one to have at it.
If it's already been apart, chances are it will come apart easy except if it's rusted.

I use the threaded rod and the outer bearing separator tool to press the inner bearing & spindle apart using my el-cheapo press.
I think that is basically what you did as well. Occasionally, I do get one that holds on for dear life, and then lets go with a minor earthquake.

There were indeed different castings for the spindle support. Some were webbed, some were not.

T