"rotors properly for interference fit" Huh? It's the hubs and not the rotors which the studs go into. Also, why would I damage my hubs when I've determined that they are in excellent shape? I think the wisest thing to do is to locate a supplier of the correct sized studs. It's also a wise thing to replace parts which are worn...and the studs...as well as many of the steel parts that I've reconditioned or replaced...have some rust. New studs are a safety measure...old studs can break...wheels can fall off. It's not a "quality" stud if the stud diameter is too large and would break or damage the hub if it was installed...a quality stud is one that fits the hub. Also, the studs are not an interference fit...the studs have ribbing that digs into the hub and provides the required torque resistence. Plus, if I was going to recondition the stud holes in the hub I would be taking a lot more off than .007"...which means no matter what I do the studs that I was directed to purchase would not work.

 

Thanks for the tutorial.

As I said, if you want the best get some ARP studs and ream them to fit.
You can also downlaod the Dorman catalog (probably what you got at Carquest anyway and will get from most other suppliers) and check their listings. They will have the correct replacements and also have different thread/spline assortment sizing for repairs. Available from almost any parts store.

To obtain the proper interference fit, match the hub hole size to the stud shoulder size or ream to match. Not a large press needed.

Have done literally hundreds of them with no failures whether replacing, repairing loose holes or increasing stud sizes.

 

Reaming is NOT a valid procedure for a performance vehicle. If machined parts absolutely need to be reconditioned by removing material in order to make use of an existing replacement part, then the part should be remachined...not bubba'd! I'm looking into getting a drill press or multi-purpose mill/lathe/drill press just in case the studs aren't available and I absolutely have to go with non-standard parts. The problem with people that use parts like ARP or whatever without measuring or doing any of the math is that your car will no longer be a corvette...because you re-engineered it to be something different. That's what customers of Corvette Care and Corvette World get...take a Chevrolet Corvette to them and they return to you a CarQuest out-of-spec damaged hub and rotor vehicle that shouldn't be allowed on the road much less an NCRS Show & Shine.

If anyone knows of a supplier of standard lug studs with shaft diameter of anywhere from .4560" to .4580" then let me know...it's the only thing that's missing. I can get the rotors and rivets from Ecklers, Wilcox, or Zip. Oh wait...I just noticed that Willcox is selling a Brake Rotor. Front W/Hub If it comes with lug studs installed then I'll just get those.

 

Ahhhh! Willcox indicated that the listing for Rotors with Hubs is no longer available. So, now I'm back to looking for the correctly sized studs and buying a drill press.

 

Perhaps you should buy only from GM, otherwise your car, in your own words will be less than a corvette.

 

Did I read this correct, the original brake job was done in 2006? and now it is 2011 at least 4 years ago or more this was done. And not buy the current owner. I think you should be happy he even gave you some advise. Now .020 is alot of differance, not acceptable at all. But bashing this company is not the answer. Did you try your local GM dealer? Maybe you might have better luck finding the proper rotors. I personally would go to Napa, I could give a Rats a$$ if every part was factory GM. Good Luck Al

 

FYI, new hubs are available. Let me know if you are interested.

Andrew
800-442-0335

 

The advice was bad...the rotors from Car Quest which I was advised to purchase did not have the rivet holes. I'm not bashing anyone...I'm stating facts and offering an objective suggestion that corvette owners in this area steer clear of the shops which have damaged my vehicle. It's the responsible thing to do. If a corvette forum member discovers a shop which damages their vehicle and does nothing about it, then that member has a responsibility to make that known to other members; otherwise, more corvettes will be damaged.

Napa is a parts store which pushes Mopar...good place to find parts for that daily driver (and you like Mopar which I personally don't, but that's a personal choice), but not the store of choice if you want to restore a Corvette . I did manage to find the correct rotors at Autozone...the parts store where I keep finding exactly what I need for my corvette. I ordered the lug studs from them as well, but they may not be exactly what I need. I just ordered the rivets from Zip. And, I left a voice message with Andrew over at Muskegon where I hope to find new hubs...and see what he has for studs, rivets, & rotors while I'm at it...with tolerances what they are for the studs & rivets it's a good idea to get everything from one supplier.

Update: I spoke to Andrew and there is indeed a supplier of new hubs! I ordered them and will post my analysis. The hubs also come with races and bearings installed which is totally awesome...I'll need to pop the rear bearings out in order to heat the hubs up for lug stud and rivet installation, but they will go right back in when I get the hubs attached to the rotors. The new hubs also do not have the rivet holes, but that's not a big deal...I'll have to get a drill press, but it's something that I've needed for a long time.

 

Much like a train wreck, I find it hard to look away. As I understand your 'plight', you simply had an incorrectly ground set of rotors- period.

This is a simple repair job that can be done quickly and inexpensively in the driveway with a minimum of hand tools and little specialized knowledge- dozens if not hundreds of posters here have done this job themselves with no prior experience.

How does your particular case evolve into the need for new hubs, lugs and rivets?

 

you can buy what looks like riveted hub & rotor assemblies on ebay, hopefully that will end this madness.

 

....Yep and I have sold hundreds more and most of them can do it the same day or less, not nearly 4 months

Who the hell checks for rivets anyway?

Is the NCRS that picky you have to remove the wheels so they can see whether or not you have rivets?

 

Nope, just another internet myth. Those of us that know the real reason that GM used rivets wouldn't bother with them either.

 

Like Mike Ward said, it's hard to look away from this strange thread.

My advise to the OP, if he is worried about his car being NCRS worthy, is to buy a Corvette Technical Information Manual & Judging Guide for his year car from the NCRS. Then he will know exactly what the NCRS looks for so that he can conform to their "standards". I have one for my '69 and I have a good idea where my car stands.


Pete

 

"NCRS Worthy" is also a rather broad term also. Cars having factory production appearance is what we are talking about here. The offshoot of that concept is NCRS Judging, which is somewhat separate and also somewhat independant of that..
When cars are submitted for judging, there are many characteristics that are not 'scored'. riveted rotors are not scored in judging since disassembly would be required.
If one requires his car to have the greatest amount of correct factory production appearance, then the rivets should be there. If you are looking for judging points, then it doesn't matter.

I could have a camaro stamped transmission in my corvette and would not lose any judging points since they don't look there anyway.

I could top flight my 70 with a camaro transmission and a 67 rear end, wrong heads, mis-dated exhaust manifolds, or any number of replacement parts that they do not judge. but it would not be factory correct and would not be 'NCRS Worthy", even though it top-flighted

The judging guide is full of statements stating that a part is described for the benefit of the restorer but that it is not to be judged.

 

Well...my bad for even mentioning NCRS. I don't care about what some restoration society thinks about my repair work. The point was that GM designed the Corvette and I think they did a really good job. The rivets are there to hold the rotor and hub together so that the rotor doesn't fall off when the wheel is removed. It is really annoying when that happens...most vehicles didn't design the hubs and rotors to be riveted together...I had to work on vehicles like that while I was a fleet mechanic and have the broken toes to prove it. If you don't like the features that a Corvette offers then you should sell it and get a car that doesn't use rivets...let someone who appreciates the car's features enjoy the luxury of being able to remove a wheel without worrying about the rotor falling off and getting damaged or damaging themselves.

There are a few corvette's out there that have been given the best repair work such as what I'm giving my corvette. The vast majority of corvettes are in very poor condition and have been bubba'd to even work...such as using coke cans to shim the rotor...I would expect that from a Honda owner, not a Corvette owner. Have some pride people!

 

This should get some interesting responses.

 

Oh the young and naive.

Yup, a train wreck in progress.

 

I guess I've just been really lucky

 

Corrects .003" Run Out.; Brake Align Runout Correction Plates Are User Friendly & Will Reduce The Time Needed To Complete A Brake Job.; Combining The Quality & Accuracy Of Modern Bench Lathes w/ The Ease & Precision Of Runout Correction Plates Results In Customer Satisfaction.; Improve Rotor Life & Correct Runout w/o Needlessly Removing Perfectly Good Rotor Material.; The Quality Of Brake Service & Longer Rotor Life Will Please Customers.

I saw a brake rotor shim assortmant for the rotor to hub arrangment. They ranged from .003-.009 How exactly do these work. It looks like they would just space the rotor away from the hub. ????????? Al

 

This explains that rash of foot injuries that developed during the 60's and 70's. And I thought it was from all the drugs...