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engine guy and parts guy flywheel throw-down

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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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Default engine guy and parts guy flywheel throw-down

OK here’s the deal, got the parts guy and the engine guy about ready to come to blows over what flywheel to use. The engine guy says the lighter flywheel is better; the parts guy says the heavier one will make more torque (still trying to get my head around that one). It’s for a ’69 with a 383, not been finished or dyno’d yet so not sure of the HP.
My plan for the car is 90% street with some auto-x and road racing mixed in there somewhere with a 5 speed going in eventually. Soooo bottom line, I’m looking to you guys for some help/opinions on the great flywheel debate. Is heavier or lighter better for my application?
Thanks
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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Lighter. Your 383 makes plenty of torque. I run an aluminum 14 pound wheel and came from a 30 steel wheel. It spools up way faster with the light flywheel.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Lighter. Your 383 makes plenty of torque. I run an aluminum 14 pound wheel and came from a 30 steel wheel. It spools up way faster with the light flywheel.

lighter is almost always better in reciprocating weight.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Lighter. Your 383 makes plenty of torque. I run an aluminum 14 pound wheel and came from a 30 steel wheel. It spools up way faster with the light flywheel.
Originally Posted by Timsride
lighter is almost always better in reciprocating weight.
go lighter, you won't regret it.....
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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Engine makes the torque. The flywheel stores it. The heavier wheel will store more than the light wheel but for your racing application I agree the light wheel. The lighter the wheel the faster it will bring up the R's.
If a hard launch was your goal I go with the heavy wheel. It would have more stored energy. Like the blade of a chopper stores energy in the rotors.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:44 PM
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You can also go with a light steel billet flywheel, mines SFI approved and weighs around 20lbs
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 01:18 AM
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They are both right, but for auto x I would go lighter. you want to get the RPM's up quick out of corners.... quicker RPM's= quicker speed.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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i went from steel to aluminum this year. i should have done it years ago. do it.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by whitehause
They are both right, but for auto x I would go lighter. you want to get the RPM's up quick out of corners.... quicker RPM's= quicker speed.
I've heard it said that when you back off going in to turns it helps with braking.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
I've heard it said that when you back off going in to turns it helps with braking.
true....i can't think of any application in a corvette where a light wheel would be a detriment.....all this stored energy crap is great for earth movers and locomotives and 47 chevys with six bangers in a limo...bwdik??.....
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
.....all this stored energy crap is great for earth movers and locomotives and 47 chevys with six bangers in a limo...bwdik??.....
And "1 lungers" !!!
Those old "hit and miss" engines are pretty neat to watch run and really show off a "heavy" flywheel.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:29 AM
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Purely for the sake of exposing you to both sides of the argument, let me point out whats better about a heavy flywheel.
Its easier to take off from a dead stop without having to slip the clutch. The inertia of the heavier flywheel helps with that.
The car will typically upshift smoother when you are just driving around in regular driving situations too.
I originally used an aluminum flywheel behind the big block in my car. It worked just fine, but I damaged some teeth on the flywheel and replaced it with a steel part (30lbs vs 15).
I personally like the way the car drives a bit better with the heavy flywheel. I do not do any auto-X or road racing though.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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I have an L88 clone engine-barely streetable- and the heavy oem flywheel helps me in keep the engine running and not hesitating at low speed operation ( around town).the engine revs fast anyway . I haven't tried a lightweight flywheel but i think it would be detrimental considering a general use of the car in my application
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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If your plans for the car are 90% street I say stick with the steel flywheel. Everyone pretty much summed it up though as mentioned before if you want to rev quicker and autox use the aluminum. The steel flywheel is great for the street and drag racing due to the intertia.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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I think you should let the parts guy and engine guy go at it and let this get settled in the manner it was supposed too.....
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
And "1 lungers" !!!
Those old "hit and miss" engines are pretty neat to watch run and really show off a "heavy" flywheel.
that is exactly what inertia is all about....
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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Thanks for all the inputs. Having a guy put together a quote for a TKO 600, alum F/W, the works. Let's see what that gets me.

Originally Posted by Crash80
I think you should let the parts guy and engine guy go at it and let this get settled in the manner it was supposed too.....
That was my first thought. the engine guy is prob 65+ and the parts guy is prob 5'8' 300lbs+ could be very entertaining. :
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MyRed69
Thanks for all the inputs. Having a guy put together a quote for a TKO 600, alum F/W, the works. Let's see what that gets me.:
I use a 20 or so pound billet steel SFI rated. Because aluminum will fatigue over time by being slammed by higher HP handling pressure plates. I was just told by a vendor that he did not recommend 14 pound aluminum flywheels with bigger motor setups. I did install my spare 383 for a short period of time with my 20 pound and tko 600. It was a wonderfull to drive. It was almost a shame to pull it out when my 434 ci came back
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