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Have a helper do the 6 and 12 while you watch the suspension. Will be spindle moving due to bearings, strut rods due to bushings, stub axels/diff. yokes due to wear on their ends or snap rings off, or u-joints due to wear of their needle bearings. mike...
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The sky is falling or not!!!
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
First determine whether the free play is in the wheel bearing of simply the yoke moving in and out. Big difference!
Have to agree here! What did the alignment shop say was so bad that the wheels were about to fall off?
The trailing arm bearings? Stub axles coming out? (And how did they deduce that with the car on the ground).
Sounds like you need a second opinion before you change everything.
Have to agree here! What did the alignment shop say was so bad that the wheels were about to fall off?
The trailing arm bearings? Stub axles coming out? (And how did they deduce that with the car on the ground).
Sounds like you need a second opinion before you change everything.
Guy actually said he does not know much about corvettes...My 1st choice in shops..their machine was down and he recomended 2nd shop. I pleaded with him that he was HIGHLY recomended and he said he personally recomended the other shop. I will check further and see, but as of right now it looks like spindle is moving a bit inside.
Did you rebuild rear spindles or did a shop do it?
Did you reuse bearing shims or use new ones? Was a setup tool used?
Is cotter pin still in axle stub?
Did you rebuild rear spindles or did a shop do it?
Did you reuse bearing shims or use new ones? Was a setup tool used?
Is cotter pin still in axle stub?
Did you rebuild rear spindles or did a shop do it? They were pressed in by shop ..I did the rest
Did you reuse bearing shims or use new ones? can not remember...I think new for one side?
Was a setup tool used? Yes
Is cotter pin still in axle stub? Yes both sides
I didn't do that part...the shop did it and I forget the exact specs, but it was "by the book" so to speak... it was from my shop manual .001 - .008.
.008 is considered quite a bit. Most rebuilders shoot for .001 to .002. The difference in 'feel' from 1 to 8 would be fairly significant. I'm assuming (hoping) the shop did the brg. set-up dry? No grease.
Yes it was dry and I'm remembering 4 or 6?...too much? that is with in specs correct.. so there should be no issues with wear ...not driving about 40 miles or so...
Yes it was dry and I'm remembering 4 or 6?...too much? that is with in specs correct.. so there should be no issues with wear ...not driving about 40 miles or so...
4 to 6 is in specs according by the book, but you're still likely to feel some play at those levels.
Changing bearings (no matter what brand) is going to change your end play. Although possible, I'd think it rare that you'd be able to re-use the original shims. When I rebuilt my spindles, I did a set up with old shims (and new bearings) just to see how close they would be to the .002 I was shooting for. Don't have my notes in front of me, but recall that the end play increased about 007.
Any chance you could pull a wheel off and get an indicator on the hub for a rough end play check. Not totally accurate because of the grease, but would help narrow things down.
So I think I found all the play that was seen at the shop...but not here at home.....
I have it on stands, so I decided to see what would happen when I took pressure off the spring.....what do you know the wheel move like crazy!!!so what he was seeing / showing me when he jacked up my car in the lot was with the pressure off the spring...that is normal correct? (with out the arms being totally shimmed)
Last edited by h2ohouse; Nov 18, 2010 at 07:41 PM.
Again, is the movement 6 and 12, or 3 and 9? Assuming its 6 and 12, the play is probably in the output yokes at the differential. Common problem on these cars. The end of the yoke wears against the shaft in the differential resulting in an increase in end play. When they wear enough, the C-clip is free to drop out of the end of the yoke. How big a problem this is is the subject of much debate, but lots of guys are driving around with no C-clips and not worrying about it. My opinion is the yokes should be replaced.
So I think I found all the play that was seen at the shop...but not here at home.....
I have it on stands, so I decided to see what would happen when I took pressure off the spring.....what do you know the wheel move like crazy!!!so what he was seeing / showing me when he jacked up my car in the lot was with the pressure off the spring...that is normal correct? (with out the arms being totally shimmed)
So he was twisting the trailing arm?
Sounds to me like this guy doesn't have a clue as to what he's doing.
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