I'm looking at getting the headlight actuator rebuild kit through Zip to (hopefully) rid my vette of the increasingly slow headlight doors. Before I do this I'd like to hear from someone who has done this before. Is it the fix I'm looking for, what was the PITA factor, or am I better off to just install new actuators all together? According to the Zip website's it doesn't look like it should be to hard to do, but I'd sure like to hear from you guys (and gals :D ) who have some experience with this one. Thanks in advance!!
:cheers:


[Modified by Sean Willard, 10:23 AM 4/5/2002]


[Modified by Sean Willard, 10:24 AM 4/5/2002]

 

PITA factor is relatively low--not a difficult job, an hour or so at the outside. Definitely not so hard to do that you'd want to buy replacements.

To get the actuators out, the easiest way (for me, anyway) is to unbolt them with the hood closed and move the first one to the center of the front of the hood. Tne open the hood and pull it out (put masking tape on the hood at that point--it's a very tight fit & you can easily scratch the paint). Then close the hood and move the 2nd one to the center and repeat.

Be VERY careful when removing the eye from the actuator rod--it's liable to be frozen to it, and if you put something like a large screwdriver through the eye and turn, you'll almost certainly sheer the rod off because it's very mild steel. Soak it down with PB Blaster & go easy with the torque.

JB

 

JB has some good advice.... :chevy

I'm in the 'process' right now on my '68.... getting the 'eye' off the end is the biggest PITA - I used the 'screwdriver' through the end - didn't budge - I used vice-grips - didn't budge - I used a vice at a friend's house (soaked with PB blaster) - didn't budge.....IT's a real pain sometimes :(

Taking out the actuator is a trick - mine came out under the grille like a chinese puzzle - took me 15min. to figure it out (those hose outlets get in the way) - be careful of the radiator !

So, took it to my dad's & he made a 'custom' collar to hold the shaft... then he proceeded to torq. off the 'eye' & right before it gave way the shaft 'twisted' slightly then 'pop' it broke loose.... Whoever designed these p.o.s. things should be shot ! ....mild steel with iron 'eyes' will almost always bind beyond belief - so good luck ! <the rest is easy> :seeya

 

Did mine a month ago. Not a bad job except for getting the actuator out. After much tring to get them out the front ,I removed the hood support bracket, carefull it takes 2 people to hold the hood, the hood will then pivot far enough forward to EASILY remove the actuators without scratching the hood. Just reverse to install and your home free. Good Luck

 

Did you guys see a big difference in the performance after you did the rebuild? Thanks for all you input! :seeya :cheers:

 

Why don't you buy yourself a hand vaccum pump and test them to be sure thats your problem before you tackle this job, to make sure that its not something else.I have replaced every componant except the acuators now and I can raise and lower my lights with the engine off. Knock on wood :cheers:

 

My advice is to yank the hood. Makes it a lot easier to get them out...

 

I've found that the components that wear out most often/quickest are the seals that fit around the actuator rod that attaches to the headlights. There are two seals (one looks like an accordian and the other sort of like a witches hat with a hole in the top). Bot actuators worth of the seals will set you back about $50-70. Now if that doesn't solve the problem, you can always step up to a new set of headlight vacuum hoses from Dr Rebuild (he sells the best hoses and includes excellent hose diagrams). And once you go the vacuum hose route, you may also want to evaluate the condition of all of the other vacuum hoses/kits that may impact the performance of your actuators (slow, temperamental). Remember, your car is 20-25+ years old and if it is anything like mine, the vacuum hoses are a collection of poor quality hoses from the local discount auto store (sorry Discount Auto but compared to Dr Rebuild those hoses are poor quality!) spliced into the OEM hoses with even cheaper/leaking connectors. I spent close to $200 in vacuum hose kits from Dr Rebuild and I gotta admit that the engine runs better and maintains reliable vacuum, in addition to driving the headlights and interior heating/cooling vents that (you guessed it) are also driven off of vacuum. There must have been a reason for GM not using wiring/electricity... Reliability perhaps.

Anyway, be mindful that actuators themselves rarely wear out. It's the $10-15 seals that are on them that rot. If the actuators look nasty, you can always buy a can of 'gold anodize' paint and dress them up like new.

 

I rebuilt my actuators and still had the problem. It's easy to isolate. I installed a temp vacumn guage in the supply line to the storage canister, then proceeded to clamp down on each hose to the actuators in turn with some vice grips and watched the gauge. My actuator relays turned out to be the problem. When I isolated them, the vacumn on the engine increased considerably.

Replaced them (at 69.00 each BTW) and the headlights work like new.