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My lights dim when I attempt to raise or lower the windows with the switch.
The passenger window works as expected.
The driver's window has all new parts. The motor is only 3 weeks old. Has been working flawlessly since it was installed.
I get a 12 volt signal at the wiring harness that plugs into the motor.
(If I use the switch the raise/lower the window.. I get a good signal at the wiring adapter that plugs into the motor)
If I try to power the motor directly from a battery... nothing happens.
Is this the proper way to test the motor? (test wires connected directly to a battery)
No results from attempting to get the motor to run.
So now... I know I will need to "clamp" the window regulator in place before I can remove the motor. (because of the spring)
I could use the "bolt in the hole approach"... but how do you get the window to go down half way to line up the security bolt holes on the window regulator?
You could just have the motor in a bind if the regulator lower brace is broken or the inner door is weak.
Put a couple rubber tipped clamps on the glass at the top of the door so the glass can't drop,take the 3 bolts out of the motor ,give it bump and it should come out.
like 78 silver mentioned one terminal lug is window up and the other terminal is window down. You may want to take a few minutes to remove the lift motor from the door and then check its operation.
most power window problems are either bad switches, or bad wiring to the motors.
most often poor Gnd to the doors, which is also poor gnd to the window motors.
if lights dim alot, motor is drawing excess current, most likely to something binding in the window, rails and rollers.
Did you ever get this solved? I'm having EXACTLY the same problem in my 73?
My issue ended up being a binding problem.
I just loosen the motors two door mounting bolts and re-tighten... and all works perfectly again.... for another 3 months.... then it starts to bind again. I guess closing the door shakes things loose every now and then.
Since the vette is my only car and thus my daily driver.... my old doors get a good workout.
So, apparently I never had an electrical problem (which explains why I was unable to locate an electrical issue related to the door motors and wiring).
I made a four clip jumper wire (looks like miniture jumper cables) to test my window motor after it would not go back up two weeks ago. I hooked one end to the battery and took one clip and hooked it on the edge of the access opening on the door and touched the "up" terminal on the motor to get it to go up and touched the "down" terminal to get it to go down. Window works fine.
I just loosen the motors two door mounting bolts and re-tighten... and all works perfectly again.... for another 3 months.... then it starts to bind again. I guess closing the door shakes things loose every now and then.
Since the vette is my only car and thus my daily driver.... my old doors get a good workout.
So, apparently I never had an electrical problem (which explains why I was unable to locate an electrical issue related to the door motors and wiring).
Good luck on yours!!
Once the inner door panels start getting weak you have to find a way to strengthen it. One other thing you can do is get off the button quickly when the window hits top or bottom,before the motor has a chance push everything into a bind.
Put a couple rubber tipped clamps on the glass at the top of the door so the glass can't drop,take the 3 bolts out of the motor ,give it bump and it should come out.
i need to change my pass side motor, totally stuffed.
window is in the up position, so will the clamps be enough to stop it dropping
or do i have to do the bolt in the arms?
are there any good instructions around on how to replace them?
how long should it take assuming it all goes well?
i need to change my pass side motor, totally stuffed.
window is in the up position, so will the clamps be enough to stop it dropping
or do i have to do the bolt in the arms?
are there any good instructions around on how to replace them?
how long should it take assuming it all goes well?
They should but it would be better to put the bolt in the hole. I can't say how easy yours will come out. The bolts come off it easy enough. Sometime you need a bit of wiggle room, the motor is pinned between part of the regulator and the door. I have had my entire regulator out so the rivits that hold the regulator have been replaced with bolts. I find I get the wiggle space by loosening off the bottom bolts that hold the regulator.
I would avoid loosening off any other bolts on the regulator. If you throw the alignment out it will take some work to get the window lined up again.
Try it. Remove all the bolts that hold the motor in place and see if it comes out.