headlamp housing height adjustment?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 260
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From: Los Angeles CA
headlamp housing height adjustment?
my left headlamp housing is sitting a little bit lower than my right (the bottom edge isn't aligned with the body, as the right one is). i assume there's a screw to adjust the height, right?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
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From: charlotte north carolina
front edge or back edge?
front edge can be adjusted. but if the rear edge is low, it could be the header bar is loosening from the surround. if that's the case, it will have to be rebonded with epoxy.
front edge can be adjusted. but if the rear edge is low, it could be the header bar is loosening from the surround. if that's the case, it will have to be rebonded with epoxy.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
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2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I will try to explain and refer to this link at the headlight assembly picture:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tuck-open.html
You need to take the bracket with the three holes (hold the bracket that sign with the green arrow) forward, you need to take out the actuator rod clevis out and turn it out.
Then you may have to open the hinges on both side and take the door backward.
I hope you understand.
Avner
Last edited by avner; Jan 10, 2011 at 08:53 AM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 260
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles CA
however, after comparing my two headlamp assemblies i realized the so-called "dogbone" isn't coming to rest where it should, so that means the assembly isn't fully extended (headlamp isn't in the full up/open position). there's about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch before the "dogbone" reaches it's stopping/resting point at the other piece. there isn't any obstruction that i could see, nor is there any give upwards which makes me consider the rod coming out of the actuator. i noticed it is threaded, where can this be adjusted?
EDIT: oh, wait... is that what adjustment (3) in the diagram above pertains to?
Last edited by VetteHalen; Jan 10, 2011 at 12:59 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
thanks, this helps (this reminds me i need to buy the shop manual).
however, after comparing my two headlamp assemblies i realized the so-called "dogbone" isn't coming to rest where it should, so that means the assembly isn't fully extended (headlamp isn't in the full up/open position). there's about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch before the "dogbone" reaches it's stopping/resting point at the other piece. there isn't any obstruction that i could see, nor is there any give upwards which makes me consider the rod coming out of the actuator. i noticed it is threaded, where can this be adjusted?
EDIT: oh, wait... is that what adjustment (3) in the diagram above pertains to?
however, after comparing my two headlamp assemblies i realized the so-called "dogbone" isn't coming to rest where it should, so that means the assembly isn't fully extended (headlamp isn't in the full up/open position). there's about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch before the "dogbone" reaches it's stopping/resting point at the other piece. there isn't any obstruction that i could see, nor is there any give upwards which makes me consider the rod coming out of the actuator. i noticed it is threaded, where can this be adjusted?
EDIT: oh, wait... is that what adjustment (3) in the diagram above pertains to?
Be careful,the clevis can be rusted to the actuator rod and when you turn it you can rip the actuator diaphragm. I usually have to remove the actuator and free up the clevis.
This adjustment however won't help with your original problem of the door sitting lower than the body.
The screw for the door to body adjustment is in the dogbone,its small diameter and has a small hex on one end and if I remember right a 9/16 hex head on the other end. AGAIN be careful here,this small adjuster can break off easily. If it won't turn you might consider a shim on the head of the adjuster. (i think a shim will keep the door open a little further
)
