HEI dist.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 71
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From: Granger Ia.
HEI dist.
I have read for hours on end about recurving the hei. but I finally took the cap off mine and the weights are very loose but the cam thing the weights push on to advance the timing is pretty stiff, maybe it shuold be that way, but I dont think so. I dont have the dist. out but when I push on the weights it will force the timming forwad but it wont retract very fast or at all. I know the plastic bushings are gone for there is a lot of play there. Better get it working right before I set anything. Is there a dist. that allready has the curve set close with right vacume advance on an aftermarket unit or not? 78 l48.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,487
Likes: 10
From: Palm Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '12
I believe you have to recurve/advance any dist. you get. I just did mine a month or so ago. It makes a BIG difference! Just buy the kit, use your original weights, and replace the springs-trial and error. I used on original spring and one of the light ones supplied in the kit. Just clean the weights and all, that's what is probably causing the hang up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
I don't know of one that is already curved. Yours needs to be removed and disassembled to clean out the old grease and oil between the shaft and housing so it will advance and retard freely.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Whole lot of stuff to do there to make it right, I have a friend in California that redoes them, if you wish, I can get you his email...and you talk to him direct....
PM/email me for the info....it comes out correct all the way....
these later 70's chebby HEI tend to wear the studs the advance springs hang on....due to neglect more than anything else....and so it takes new springs/weights, and a dizzy machine to really dial one in good, and it comes totally apart to make it really Kosher.....
PM/email me for the info....it comes out correct all the way....
these later 70's chebby HEI tend to wear the studs the advance springs hang on....due to neglect more than anything else....and so it takes new springs/weights, and a dizzy machine to really dial one in good, and it comes totally apart to make it really Kosher.....
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
Four options:
Free: dont do a thing and wonder what if........
$20: HEI recurve kit that includes weights, bushings and springs
(use the factory weights with the new bushings and the lightest springs)
$100: HEI rebuild with the weights mentioned above
$170: new HEI plus the recurve kit
FYI: The vacuum can is for part-throttle acceleration.....no real performance tuning with it...but do keep it, dont remove it.
Free: dont do a thing and wonder what if........
$20: HEI recurve kit that includes weights, bushings and springs
(use the factory weights with the new bushings and the lightest springs)
$100: HEI rebuild with the weights mentioned above
$170: new HEI plus the recurve kit
FYI: The vacuum can is for part-throttle acceleration.....no real performance tuning with it...but do keep it, dont remove it.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
Usually not.........all companies just throw in the stock weights and springs. You just buy the springs and weights seperately and install them yourself.
By the way, you can install weights, springs, and bushings without pulling the distributor.
I use dielectric grease between the bottom of the weights and the little plastic button. Also put some on the shaft.
Also, if you remove the rotor......you should be able to grasp the section that the rotor bolts to and twist it slightly...then let go. It should snap back into the initial position.
By the way, you can install weights, springs, and bushings without pulling the distributor.
I use dielectric grease between the bottom of the weights and the little plastic button. Also put some on the shaft.
Also, if you remove the rotor......you should be able to grasp the section that the rotor bolts to and twist it slightly...then let go. It should snap back into the initial position.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 71
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From: Granger Ia.
I think everything else is fine, just need to get the weights and things off, clean it up, put the bushing kit in, and lube it. Lars talked about a different vacume advance allthough. I think the original advance wouldnt get the right timing that would be added to the total timing. What kind of lube?
