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Installing push Rods

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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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Default Installing push Rods

I just installed some new aluminum heads. I still have the intake off the motor and can see the lifters. I want to put on the existing push rods to check their length. Where do the lifters need to be for me to install the pushrods and check at zero lash. Do they need to both be up, down, one up, one down. I was told to get TDC on #1 but I don't know how to do this. I know what your thinkin..what a dummy. Oh well I'm a plumber trying to save some money doin it myself. We all gotta learn some time. So remember when you give me instructions, you know the "Dummy" part. Thanks for understanding and helping.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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You can go to the library and check out any automotive book that deals with rebuilding a SBC and follow the directions.

Basically you will need to go to TDC in which case the "0" timing mark should line up on the balancer and pointer and both #1 lifters will be in the position to adjust, or otherwise down so the valves are closed (that is the most forward cylinder on the drivers side) and you have compression coming out of the #1 spark plug hole. That will be good to check both #1 pushrods at TDC, do you have a pushrod length checker?

Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Jan 12, 2011 at 05:01 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
You can go to the library and check out any automotive book that deals with rebuilding a SBC and follow the directions.

Basically you will need to go to TDC in which case the "0" timing mark should line up on the balancer and pointer and both #1 lifters will be "UP" (that is the most forward cylinder on the drivers side) and you have compression coming out of the #1 spark plug hole. That will be good to check both #1 pushrods at TDC, do you have a pushrod length checker?
Yes I do have a checker, you just answered my question. Now when I go to install the other pushrods do the lifters for that particular cylinder need to be in the up position also and so on.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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With the #1 in the compression stroke at TDC you can do the following adjustments
Exhaust 1,3,4,8
Intake 1,2,5,7

Next turn the engine ONE revolution
Adjust the following;
Exhaust 2,5,6,7
Intake 3,4,6,8
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
With the #1 in the compression stroke at TDC you can do the following adjustments
Exhaust 1,3,4,8
Intake 1,2,5,7

Next turn the engine ONE revolution
Adjust the following;
Exhaust 2,5,6,7
Intake 3,4,6,8
I turned the motor over by hand and was not able to get both #1 lifters up at the same time, confused........
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Did you line up the timing marks and see where you are at? Did you change cams and make sure you installed the timing gears correctly?
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
Did you line up the timing marks and see where you are at? Did you change cams and make sure you installed the timing gears correctly?
This was a working motor, just replacing the heads.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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How many times did you try rotating it? If just once you might be off a revolution.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
How many times did you try rotating it? If just once you might be off a revolution.
turned it over 5 or 6 times at least.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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sent you a pm
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by trainor
I just installed some new aluminum heads. I still have the intake off the motor and can see the lifters. I want to put on the existing push rods to check their length. Where do the lifters need to be for me to install the pushrods and check at zero lash. Do they need to both be up, down, one up, one down. I was told to get TDC on #1 but I don't know how to do this. I know what your thinkin..what a dummy. Oh well I'm a plumber trying to save some money doin it myself. We all gotta learn some time. So remember when you give me instructions, you know the "Dummy" part. Thanks for understanding and helping.
When the crank is at the TDC mark, BOTH #1 and #6 are at TDC - but you really need to know that #1 is in compression - the easiest way to know this is to look at the #3 intake lifter/pushrod/rocker arm/valve spring. If #3 intake lifter is up (pushrod up), you're at TDC-firing (compression on #1).

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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:01 PM
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Both #1 lifters need to be down with the timing mark at 0. The rocker arms will have no pressure on them and there will be a little play in both the intake and exhaust rockers.That is the maximum length for the pushrods.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FKING1
Both #1 lifters need to be down with the timing mark at 0. The rocker arms will have no pressure on them and there will be a little play in both the intake and exhaust rockers.That is the maximum length for the pushrods.
OK so both lifter on #1 will be in the down position, I was looking for them in the up position, I'll check it that way, thanks.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by trainor
turned it over 5 or 6 times at least.
If you saw 2 consecutive rotations to 0 on the balancer neither of which had both #1 (driver front) valves completely closed, then your balancer has most likely slipped.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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You can't have both lifters in the full up position. That would mean both valves are open at the same time at full lift. Never happen. You want the lifters on the base circle of the cam which is the down position. This is both valves closed.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
If you saw 2 consecutive rotations to 0 on the balancer neither of which had both #1 (driver front) valves completely closed, then your balancer has most likely slipped.
I got both in the down position and installed rods and rockers. Both rockers seem to pretty much stay in the middle of the valve whether open or closed, should the length be OK then. Also can I go ahead and install the other pushrods when those other cylinders are in the down position and so on.
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