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I would not spend one nickel on a crate with a f/t cam
IMO, build what you have or buy a crate with a hyd roller
I'm curious, what would be the reason? I've heard something about needing to use special oils with f/t cams but why would you avoid them all together?
The only other motor I could find that was somewhat affordable was a 350 with hydraulic rollers, but its only a 350 400HP/425TQ. The 383 with
hydraulic rollers is 1,000$ more, is it really worth 1k more?
Sense I'm not building a race engine here, would something with a flat-tappet cam not suffice?
I'm curious, what would be the reason? I've heard something about needing to use special oils with f/t cams but why would you avoid them all together?
The only other motor I could find that was somewhat affordable was a 350 with hydraulic rollers, but its only a 350 400HP/425TQ. The 383 with
hydraulic rollers is 1,000$ more, is it really worth 1k more?
Sense I'm not building a race engine here, would something with a flat-tappet cam not suffice?
A good roller setup is typically over $1000. The f/t cams work great, but a roller has less friction and typically idles better. I can tell you this, after having gone to a roller setup I never intend to go back to f/t again. I could get into a lot more detail if needed. Back in 2002 when I put the ZZ4 in my car I picked that crate due to the roller setup.
A good roller setup is typically over $1000. The f/t cams work great, but a roller has less friction and typically idles better. I can tell you this, after having gone to a roller setup I never intend to go back to f/t again. I could get into a lot more detail if needed. Back in 2002 when I put the ZZ4 in my car I picked that crate due to the roller setup.
The engine above still has the vortec heads, and doesn't have an intake manifold. Listed at 3,200$ figure 400$ more for a decent intake, so 3,600$ At that point I may as well spend the 3,995$ and get this one with the 1,000$ turn key kit sense that seems like a solid value. http://dpmpower.us/smallblock.htm
Item Name: 383ci 430 HP 460 TQ
Item Price: $3,995.00
Product Description
Its still really about 1,000$ more than I want to spend, but if im already spending about 8,000$ on a engine/trans/radiator/misc engine parts, i suppose another 1000$ really is not going to make or break the bank
Last edited by Texana; Jan 12, 2011 at 11:18 PM.
Reason: spelling
i suppose another 1000$ really is not going to make or break the bank
That's what I keep saying but that other 1000 keeps turning into another 1000 then another....It's hard to just settle when you want the biggest and baddest huh? If I'm not spending my budget on parts, I keep finding new tools that I want to spend it on. It's almost addictive.....No it IS ADDICTIVE!
The engine above still has the vortec heads, and doesn't have an intake manifold. Listed at 3,200$ figure 400$ more for a decent intake, so 3,600$ At that point I may as well spend the 3,995$ and get this one with the 1,000$ turn key kit sense that seems like a solid value. http://dpmpower.us/smallblock.htm
Item Name: 383ci 430 HP 460 TQ
Item Price: $3,995.00
Product Description
Its still really about 1,000$ more than I want to spend, but if im already spending about 8,000$ on a engine/trans/radiator/misc engine parts, i suppose another 1000$ really is not going to make or break the bank
If I had a choice I would go with the second engine. The engine being balanced internally means it can take parts from the 350. From what I have been seeing a lot of folks that use to balance externally 383s moved to internal balance. It makes it easier to reuse a dampener or flywheel that way. The only thing I questions is what vortec heads they used and what does the hand worked intale? It is a cheap engine if you consider I have almost 3 grand in one set of hand worked cylinder heads from a well known porter down here in Louisiana.
Last edited by Sigforty; Jan 13, 2011 at 09:02 AM.
$3200 roller 383 sounds good don't it? BUT, it says it's a replacement for TBI ... then '96-'99 truck ...other specifics sorely lacking. Study Up! Those are key terms for fuel injection ... and that requires an ELECTRIC fuel injection PUMP. All this INDICATES this piece may not have a fuel pump eccentric (for mech pump) on that roller cam and block may not have a "finished" mechanical fuel pump mount flange or pump rod hole (late production blocks have neither because they have OE FI pump in tank). When shopping, best verify early on if compatible w/ C3 (mech) fuel pump.
$3200 roller 383 sounds good don't it? BUT, it says it's a replacement for TBI ... then '96-'99 truck ...other specifics sorely lacking. Study Up! Those are key terms for fuel injection ... and that requires an ELECTRIC fuel injection PUMP. All this INDICATES this piece may not have a fuel pump eccentric (for mech pump) on that roller cam and block may not have a "finished" mechanical fuel pump mount flange or pump rod hole (late production blocks have neither because they have OE FI pump in tank). When shopping, best verify early on if compatible w/ C3 (mech) fuel pump.
You would be correct, that must have been why I didn't find it the first two time I looked though their selection. Thanks for pointing that out.
Originally Posted by Sigforty
If I had a choice I would go with the second engine. The engine being balanced internally means it can take parts from the 350. From what I have been seeing a lot of folks that use to balance externally 383s moved to internal balance. It makes it easier to reuse a dampener or flywheel that way. The only thing I questions is what vortec heads they used and what does the hand worked intale? It is a cheap engine if you consider I have almost 3 grand in one set of hand worked cylinder heads from a well known porter down here in Louisiana.
Unless I can find a good deal on a 406 as the previous poster suggested, it looks like that's the way to go. I'll give them a call later today and see if I can get some answers out of them.
Originally Posted by MrJlr
Here's a 383 on flee-bay for $2395...warranty and all...
This guy is in Washington...I called him and he says he has lots of them....I've been considering him a while...????
Actually, that's a really good warranty, I'll definitely have to look into that.
Originally Posted by Ben Lurkin
AND the only problem with THAT is it's about 30 less than a good 406 SBC.
If you're thinking 383, you may as well build a 400.
The Keisler RS500 I planned on is only rated for 500hp/tq. Id rather not blow the thing out the first time off the line and upgrading to the RS600 is another 500$ before the cost of the larger engine. I'll give it a look, but I think im going with the 383 crate I listed here before.
If its rated at 500;bs it can probably handle plenty more.
On FT cams obviously a roller is better but unless youre running a huge one with big spring pressure or crazy fast ramps if I just had to I would.
I figured it could, but 3,000$ is alot for a "probably" especially sense I'm going to be almost broke after all this I would guess, that my stock differential will probably blow out the first time I put this thing to the floor, so im counting on having to replace that sometime in the near future too.
It use to be cheaper to build the engine yourself, not anymore. More and more people are taking the easy route and buying already built motors. You can't beat the price and you know everything is brand new. Some or most of it was probably built outside the U.S. but most people don't care about that anymore. Turn key is fine as long as you don't mind pulling the engine back out to ship it back. If you are ready to spend the kind of money you sound like you want to spend, consider having all the work done at a good speed shop, for about $1K more everything will be covered. Then when you go to pick it up all you have to do is pay your bill and turn the key and go.
It use to be cheaper to build the engine yourself, not anymore. More and more people are taking the easy route and buying already built motors. You can't beat the price and you know everything is brand new. Some or most of it was probably built outside the U.S. but most people don't care about that anymore. Turn key is fine as long as you don't mind pulling the engine back out to ship it back. If you are ready to spend the kind of money you sound like you want to spend, consider having all the work done at a good speed shop, for about $1K more everything will be covered. Then when you go to pick it up all you have to do is pay your bill and turn the key and go.
Good Luck with your choice Tim
Id much rather do the work myself, I really dislike the thought of someone else working on my Corvette; I don't even let anyone else work on my DD Cobalt.
Also, when I pull the engine, I'll also be pulling the transmission, radiator, entire AC system, steering box, brake booster & master cylinder as I'm replacing all these units as well (Basically everything under the hood). I also need to degrease, sand, and repaint the engine bay, overall were looking at a lot more labor than a additional 1,000$ would cover.
I'll consider it, but I'm already looking at ~23,000$ to refresh this car after engine work, paint & interior. I'm not exactly stoked on the idea of piling on another several thousand in labor I could do myself.
Ii dont know how high the intake is on that for hood clearance, but I would like to find out.
I just spoke wit a sales rep at JEGS and was told tha the BP3830CTC1 (fully dressed) requires a L88 hood due to the height of the intake manifold.
I asked if the BP3830CT1 would fit useing a lower manifold and was told due to the height of the vortec heads he did not think there was a manifold that it would.