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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 10:32 PM
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Default Engine Rebuilding

I am taking my L82 in for a compression test because it's burning oil and I think the rings are worn. I may end up going ahead and rebuilding the engine. Does anyone know of a good place to get a master rebuild kit? I'd like to get good quality and go on someones recommendation...

Thanks!
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by usmarinejohn
I am taking my L82 in for a compression test because it's burning oil and I think the rings are worn. I may end up going ahead and rebuilding the engine. Does anyone know of a good place to get a master rebuild kit? I'd like to get good quality and go on someones recommendation...

Thanks!
A leak down test at TDC would be a more important test then a compression test as may have valve seal that need to be replaced.

Mahle pistons are a good chioce as the offer a cast LT-1 flat top pistons that we have used from time to time or if you want a better piston Mahle offers a Power pac kit with rings which we use a lot of as its hard to beat there quality over the cheaper OEM replacements pistons out there.

What ever pistons you use its a good idea to weigh them against the old ones to check the balancing if they are off alot it maybe a good idea to get you assembly rebalanced.

Good luck with your rebuild.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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How many miles on it?
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:35 AM
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I had to replace my valve stem seals on 78 L-82 with about 55,000 miles (65,000 miles today) in the early 90's-it was burning oil. I would suggest a leak down test also although I did not do that but just went for the valve stem seals since they were cheap and easy for me to do-relatively! Solved the problem! The question on the mileage on your car is appropriate. Apparently, the GM valve stem seals don't last that long and I replaced with umbrella seals rather than the GM o ring seals on the valve stem and they have worked great since then.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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That's a good idea, I do think that the seals are worn or the valves just aren't seating properly, so I should do a leak down test too. The speedo is broken (no suprise) but I have receipts showing that the car (1980 L82) had 64,620 when it went in for maintenance in 1991. Since the guy was old and didn't drive it much I figure it's got maybe 130,000 or so. It's smoking on startup so there may be a build up on the valves that causes that and the leak through as well. Either way, I've got enough work to do (intake manifold gasket, rear main seal, exhaust gaskets, spark plugs, oil pan gasket) that I might as well pull it and rebuild it.

Has anyone done a rebuild themselves? I've done alot of work on many different motors, but never actually replaced pistons and rings, lifters, cam, any of that...
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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Semper Fi John.
Lots of folks here have built many engines and you will get loads of information and varying opinions. Bottom line is first you need to find a quality machine shop that can perform high quality machine work for you. Do you plan on a performance rebuild of the L-82 making it a high reving 350 or stroke it to a 383 or 396? It has a forged steel crank and with some work can perform very well. Stroking it to a larger cubic inch motor will add some additonal cost since you need a different crank and better flowing heads but a nice rotating assembly kit (crank, rods, piston, rings and bearings) can be found very reasonable. Consider what it will cost you to rebuild the stock smog heads (could be up to $500+) vs a new set of aluminum heads like Brodix IK's or Edelbrocks with 64cc chambers for some decent compression for a few hundred more. The L-82 came with forged pistons and I'd use a new set of forged pistons if it is going to be a high reving motor. You have lots to think about before the rebuild. Since you are near Houston, there should be some good machine shops close by.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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Well, I would prefer to bore it out to a 383 or 396, but being that it is a one owner 1980 Corvette L82, that has always been in Houston, wouldn't I take away some of the value of the car by doing that? I thought it would be best to keep the rebuild as close to original as possible. If it doesn't take away from the value then I will definitely bore it out to at least 383.

I don't have a machine shop yet, I will wait til after the compression and leak test monday, but I do know some shops that rebuild engines so I'm sure they'll do the machining. And is it better to buy new heads or machine the originals? is it cheaper as well?

I am in Houston and I'm sure there are alot of good shops. I've talked with Precision several times. Do you know of any good shops?
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