74 won't start please help
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Stereo wiring was eating my battery all the time until I disconnected it to get it done properly. My only recommendation is check electrical work you may have done lately and of course all the standard electrical wiring especially checking the alternator. Just my 2 cents.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: West Milford NJ
Thanks, I have not done anything different to the vette for since I owned it. There is no radio installed, looking for one now. The car started and ran fine up untill about 2 months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I replaced the battery and thought I was good, two weeks goes buy and dead again. Charged it, checked the voltage, alternator and a few other things. All looks good.
The only thing I am not certain about is there are two switches that look aftermarket. One (two position) on the bottom of the dash by the steering column and the other (3 position) on the drivers side of the trans hump.
The only thing I am not certain about is there are two switches that look aftermarket. One (two position) on the bottom of the dash by the steering column and the other (3 position) on the drivers side of the trans hump.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 1,555
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
The left most **** could be the trip odometer switch-push up and turn and pull back down once you get 000.
Next to that and almost under the column is another switch-pull it down and the headlights will pop up but the bulbs won't light. Good for changing or cleaning the bulbs.
On the drivers side tunnel is a 3 position switch for the optional rear defroster-press the top on the switch in for high speed. Press the bottom of the switch for low speed. Center position is off.
Next to that and almost under the column is another switch-pull it down and the headlights will pop up but the bulbs won't light. Good for changing or cleaning the bulbs.
On the drivers side tunnel is a 3 position switch for the optional rear defroster-press the top on the switch in for high speed. Press the bottom of the switch for low speed. Center position is off.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: West Milford NJ
The left most **** could be the trip odometer switch-push up and turn and pull back down once you get 000.
Next to that and almost under the column is another switch-pull it down and the headlights will pop up but the bulbs won't light. Good for changing or cleaning the bulbs.
On the drivers side tunnel is a 3 position switch for the optional rear defroster-press the top on the switch in for high speed. Press the bottom of the switch for low speed. Center position is off.
Next to that and almost under the column is another switch-pull it down and the headlights will pop up but the bulbs won't light. Good for changing or cleaning the bulbs.
On the drivers side tunnel is a 3 position switch for the optional rear defroster-press the top on the switch in for high speed. Press the bottom of the switch for low speed. Center position is off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 1,555
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
That mystery switch might be a KILL switch, something to interrupt the power to the coil or starter.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 498
Likes: 77
From: DFW Texas
Just go ahead and bypass that relay on the firewall as suggested earlier. I did mine and have no further problems. You don't want to get stuck again. Otherwise keep a small piece of wire on board to bypass with in a pinch. The thing about the bypass is that once you do it, you can forget about it ever happening again and you can not tell it has been done. Still appears original if that is a cincern. My 2 cents
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