To answer your question, I like all years and all big blocks. I prefer the high-winding 396-427's. I stuck a 69 L-78 in my 75 Vette and what a sleeper it is.

I know of several guys who have done the same. They replaced their 454 with a 396-427. All but one used a 396 because they are fairly easy to find and don't seem to be as expensive as the 454's. Of course they are not that concerned with originality.

Also, remember the L-78(396/375) is basically an LS-6 with 58 less cubes. Same heads, cam, etc. They were made from 66-70 in Chevelles, Camaros and Nova's plus a few big cars. In my opinion they should have made the L-78 the standard big block for Vettes.

 

I guess it's a mystique thing. The old 427 has that. The reality is that all things being equal, the larger displacement engine will make more power and a lot more torque.

I spend a lot of my time at the drag strip and with engine builders. No one at the strip runs smaller big blocks. Everyone runs at least a 468 and most have even larger stroke cranks than the 4" 454 crank.

I would never destroke a 454. There is no replacement for displacement.

 

garagedweller,

Thanks for the kind words! I've had a lot of fun with it over the years. Hopefully, I'll be able to give it a well deserved restoration sometime next year.


With regard to Mighty Mouse's question regarding what to buy for $20,000-$25,000...

Considering that you want an original car, you should be able to locate an outstanding 1968-69 L-36 or 1970-72 LS-5 coupe or perhaps a convertible for that kind of money. If it were me, I'd definitely hold out for a convertible with A/C as it will significantly add to the value of the car. A couple of things to think about...

The lower compression 454s in 1971 and 1972 can be a real advantage if you plan to drive the car to any degree. Being able to use the lowest octane fuel available (read that as least expensive) is also a benefit.

The 1968 Corvettes, for right or wrong are typically valued less than a similar 1969 (or 1970-72 for that matter). Generally, you can buy a lot more car for your money if you decide that the issues with the 1968 model year (both real and perceived) don't bother you. Keep in mind that you will also have to deal with this at resale if you purchase a '68... It cuts both ways.

As stated by several people, the 427 engine does have a mystique attached to it that really gets people excited. On the street, you'll probably appreciate the the extra cubic inches of the 454... Especially considering that these hydraulic lifter engines aren't high rpm engines anyway (where less mass in the reciprocating assembly is an advantage).

The 1970 model year was quite short and 1970 was the only year for a "high compression" 454.

The 1969 model year was extended and there were many L-36 cars built. My guess is that you'll see more of these around than the other years... That's been my observation anyway.

The 1972 cars have the engine installed coded to the VIN which tends to eliminate counterfeit cars.

The chrome bumper cars (1968-72) seem to be doing pretty well as far as maintaining their value.

The cars are similar in some respects, but there are many detail issues between the 1968-72 cars... Go out and see if one year or another really stands out for you.

The 1973-74 LS-4 cars are an interesting option as well... Particularly if you are looking to get into an original big block car for less than what you posted as your budget.

My experience is that a nice 1968-69 L-71 coupe will run in the $30,000-$35,000 range. Good ones do turn up for less than that, but they are few and far between. Most of the inexpensive ones tend to be used up street racers and/or restoration projects in waiting. There are good ones at less than $30,000 though... As there are multi-million dollar lottery winners. :)

I don't know what your background is with these cars, but I would suggest taking along someone who REALLY knows these cars when you go to check one out... Both mechanically as well as an originality. Even if you are well versed on what you're searching for, the extra pair of eyes never hurts. It could save you a lot of problems in the future.

Best of luck in your search!

Regards,

 

I've paid my dues with the big 3 manufactures in the form of many models and engine combinations. I believe with experience comes the right to voice one's opinion with confidence.

DJ

 

How about if I say that the '68 model was one one of the worst Vettes in terms of fit and finish. Many of the major mags wouldn't even test it because it was such a step backward from the '67.

 

My response would be “The fit and finish does suck on ’68 Vettes… as well as all Vettes up to the early 90’s. Mid-years and C5’s are probably the best made Vettes. Tell me something I don’t know.”

 

Then I'll ask you, how many LS-5 vettes have you owned? How did you come to not think much of them. I happen to own one and it absolutely kicks butt.

 

Stan,
I appreciate your post. I know very little about these Vettes and it was interesting to read your piont of view. The less I have to spend the better naturally. What were the problems with the 68? I have read where they made lots of improvements to the 69 but I don't know what problems plagued the 68? Once again, thanks for your post. I learned tons. :D

 

Argh, couldn't last a day - darn.... broke the holding at post #427.

Ahhhhh - 1968, well sit down, pull up a chair and I'll fill you in.
See, back in 1966 GM was planning on introducing the new 'shark' body style but problems with wind drag, etc. & the practicality of vision impairments forced Zora & others to postpone it until 1967 (another year)....thus the 1967 Corvette didn't pan out like GM planned (oh well). However during the early part of 67 - Zora was ill and hospitalized for 6-months. More stebacks. :(
Ok, here's where I'll cut to the 'chase' :
1968
* These cars do NOT have the 'X' bracing in the frame behind the seats & also lack the 'crash' bars in the doors. (thus they weigh 150lbs. less than other C3's)
* Also, they have 'push' button door locks ('68 only)
* Only C3 to have the key in the dash (relocated to be more 'theft' proof)
* Air ventilation for Big Blocks weren't as good (redesigne radiator mounting for '69)
* Old style vacuum with single control valve for headlights ('69s have 2)
* Backup lights under the bumper
* no 'Stingray' script on fenders
* Last year for chrome shift ****
* Last year for 327 ? ...was supposed to have the 350 (didn't pan out)
* Solid rods for 'early' 68 under the decklids of verts
* 'lower' position of seat folding hardware (re-located higher for easier access)
* No engine badge on console (just the crossed flags)
...And dozens more - but this is all I can think of right now.
:chevy :chevy

My defense why us crazy '68 owners like them so much ???
- Well they're one-of-a-kind plus '68s are the first sharks and congrats go to GM for bringing forth the most Avant-Garde design of its time ! :D :cool:
Think of this way - a 1968 vette is a 'Functional Prototype' - not perfect but true to the intent of the original DESIGN.
IF you could buy the first Chevy SSR or the first concept anything - would you ?
1968 "IS" a true collector item that is just now getting it's due respect ! ;)
Long live 68's !

 

I never said I don't think much of the LS-5 Vette, I said I don't think much of 454 motors in general, and in the context of my message you could have deduced that I meant in comparison to the 427.

Relax, I'm sure your LS-5 Corvette is a wonderful driving machine and that the broad torque curve of the LS-5 is far superior to my 327 Vette or 389 Catalina... How's that?

 

Indeed! ’68 & ’69 Vettes were the only ones I really had an interest in, and I invite a challenge so I opted for the ’68. Besides, I'm VERY accustom to the key being on the dash, where it belongs!

 

1969 427/390. (Now the smart-butt answer) Because it's mine. :)

I saw my first 427 in a C3 25 years ago and I always said I wanted one. Not sure why, but 427 sounds better than 454 (sorry 454ers).


---Andy

 

I don't want to paint a picture of doom and gloom with respect to 1968 Corvettes... In this thread alone there are several 1968 owners who have stated that they are more than pleased with their cars. I've owned two '68s myself; they were both good cars. If you find a solid 1968 in your search, I wouldn't doubt that your experience would be any different than what you've seen posted here. :)

Having said that, there were a couple of problems back in 1968 which may be an issue today.

Water leaks (especially in coupes) plagued 1968 Corvettes and the factory even issued a 15 page TSB to dealers in an effort to fix this problem in the field. If you don't plan to drive the car in the rain, then you really don't have to worry about this one. Be advised though that the problem does exist.

The cooling system was the other area that caused GM some headaches. The small blocks were generally not a problem, but the big blocks (in particular those with air conditioning) had a bad habit of overheating if everything in the cooling system wasn't operating perfectly. Another 1968 TSB issued to dealers instructed them to cut holes in the lower front valance panel of early cars (all 1968s after approximately serial number #1000 and all later cars up through 1982 used a valance with these holes cut from the factory). These dealer cut holes were extremely crude... As were the early spoiler extensions which were often pieces of rubber attached with pop rivets. In any event, the later 1968 cars had these improvements addressed during production, but cooling the big blocks in 68s was always a challenge.

The quality control issues that the period magazines complained about are now more of an annoyance than anything else. There were countless improvements made through the 1968 model year and many more made in 1969; certainly too many to list here. A late build 1968 is definitely the way to go if you have a choice though.

You'll hear many people talk about the "one year only" parts for 1968s... That's if you are lucky. Running changes caused revisions in part designs on a regular basis in 1968; some parts were used in production for only a few months... Or even weeks in some cases. Getting a complete, unrestored car or one that has been restored with the correct parts would avoid this problem. If not, you can find yourself purchasing some very expensive parts (when you can find them).

One last point you should keep in mind is that while the problems with the 1968 cars isn't as horrible as some would have you believe, the perception among many people is that it is somehow an inferior car. As I stated before, you can generally get a lot more car when you purchase, but you'll see the down side of this if you decide to sell in the near future. The 1968s will probably catch up to the 1969s in value at some point in time, but it hasn't happened yet and probably won't in the next few years.

Regards,

 

For what you want to spend, I would suggest a '69 427/435 with the close ratio 4-speed. In my opinion, the best looking C3 with fender louver trim and side-pipes. Also capable of high twelves- low thirteens in the quarter.

 

427/435 w/ trips. My uncle had a '67 in 1968. My first ride in a vette at 2 years old. I'll never forget that ride. :cool:

 

Quote
I don't understand the couple of jabs here on the 454 cars. It's okay to toot your horn if you love your car but slighting the others isn't cool.

I think that most of the big block owners slight the small block Vettes , even if they don't realize that they are doing it. I have seen many post about how the big block cars are so much better than the small block cars. No substitute for cubic inches , only big blocks are desirable, ect.ect. I think it is funny that the big block owners even slight themselves. I think that my Vette would beat a stock 73 BB Vette and my car is powerful enough to be considered a real car even without a big block.

 

Hopefully, people aren't easily slighted, but here's a great history lesson from Car and Driver. Ever wonder why we love big blocks??????? Wonder no more. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/derek....s/bigblocks.rm
Make sure you have a hi-speed connection.....sound on high!!!!

NOTE: Thanks to DMAN535 for hosting this video on his site. Great stuff.




[Modified by 67HEAVEN, 8:27 AM 4/13/2002]

 

Tick...tick...tick...tick...tick...tick. ..tick...tick...tick...tick...tick...tic k...

Okay, hands up all those who viewed the video...

Hands up those who understand...

The rest of you, go back and watch the video again :D or better yet, get on the "I wanna ride" waiting list on my site. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dare I be so bold?

:D


[Modified by 67HEAVEN, 8:45 AM 4/13/2002]

 

I click on the site and I don't get anything. Give a brief summary of what we are suppose to learn from watching your video. How fast the big block cars are? I have my own Vette I don't really have any desire to go for a ride in your Vette. I could get you a ride in my friends small block S-10 pick-up that does 10.5 in the 1/4. I don't know what it will prove. You could probably also take a ride in a moded Viper with N2O. Compared to a V-10 every chevy has a small block.

 

Download and install RealPlayer to view the video.

In it you will learn that stock L72 1966 Corvettes were tested by Car and Driver in 1966 (on 7.75x15 bias-ply skinnies) at 12.8/112mph in the 1/4. Now, let's go test your buddy's stock S10 truck.

Each to his own though. Enjoy your car. :cheers: