You should be ok, Just as a note if they don't now your bolts should have had washers underneath them. For clarity when the carburetor warps it is usually the tops that warp but can be fixed on a flat abrasive surface such as a 12x 12 floor tile and afixed sand paper with some elbow grease if you don't have a belt sander. all of the emulsion tubes an such must be removed first.

FWIW, Jimbo

 

If you are not going to regularly run your beast to 6000 RPM forget what I said. If you are... The stock fuel system will not deliver enough fuel volume to keep the fuel bowl full under hard acceleration, been there done that and have the T-shirt to prove it. With a Big Block you will bust your nose on the steering wheel if you leave the line hard with the stock fuel system. The other important and most overlooked thing in a high performance application is ignition. The stock HEI runs out of ***** about 4500 rpm when it does it act just like a fuel problem have the T-shirt for this one too. ( Experience is something you get right after you need it)
A friend and I raced these carburetors for a year in the final configuration before I sold one to anyone to make sure I had all the bases covered, at times he lapped up to the third place car... They thought we were cheating, going through tech was always amusing!! especially when they DQ'd the second place car for illegal camshaft LOL it was great.

Before I write this I am not going to go into the whys of it, just what works, not that I don't want to share the information it would just be a book when I got through.

Starting at the tank: -8 fuel line then the fuel pump mounted at the tank the electric fuel pump, most Holley or other racing pump will suffice.
Fuel line from the pump to the regulator set at 5-7 psi ( fuel pressure changes fuel curve as does float level) fuel line from the regulator to a sintered filter, from the filter to the carburetors modified inlet (more on this in a minute)
route return line back to tank.

Filter: I have used these filter with good success, they are well built and serviceable http://www.jazproducts.com/fuel_filters.html

carburetor inlet:Remove the inlet fitting discard the filter and spring (you have the new filter installed)
drill and tap the oem fitting to accept a 3/8" NPT x -8 fitting, hook up your hose and go racing!


FWIW, Jimbo

 

Thanks, Jimbo!

 

you are welcome!

 

The center one here was your most optimal performance results, correct?

I 'heard' that leaving this slight gap, allows some of the vacuum signals to cross over to the other side of the carb, and that results in a stronger, more correct signal to TO the carb on how to respond.

I don't think this difference actually made MORE power, but made more USABLE power. Does that sound right?

I've also 'heard' of some folks using the 4-hole, thicker spacer, but cutting about an inch long, 1/4" or so deep slot in the separator wall of the manifold, right in between the secondary holes area. This kept the crossover signals only when the secondaries opened, and kept the cruising (primaries only) signals stock.

hth

 

There is not a nickels worth of diffenence if any between those I have listed. As for custom configurations I have not tested what you describe so I really have no opinion. I will say on a dual plan factory style manifold in every instance I tested raising the carburetor up off of the manfold cost torqe production in the engine and did not make any more horsepower.

As for the space The open space the gasket provides benath the base of the carburetor has to do with signal at the boosters. you don't want to get any higher than the factory design it disrupts air flow and you don't want to add a divider to completely seperate the primary or seconday barrels you need the open space for signal to the boosters because of firing order . These are things I have tested and come up with to the best of my knowledge. I am not saying somone else hasn't found a better mouse trap but I will say the advice I am giving has been tested.

FWIW, Jimbo

 

Thanks for reporting your results!
I revised my article as there were good questions. Maybe this new info will help others, too!

 

I have a stock dual-plane and used the open one, as per Jimbo.

 

I took out my "homemade" spacer and replaced it with an open one.