New upgrades
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 202
From: Waterford Mi
New upgrades
I just purchsed the Dewitt radiator and dual fans.
Thanks to the folks at Dewitts.
I also bought a one-wire 100amp alternator from Summit.
Once I have everything installed I will post some pictures.
My only questions have to do with the alternator:
Will my amp gauge still work?
Do I have to do anything besides running a 8-gage wire with a fuse link from the starter to the alternator?
According to the instructions that came with the Painless high-output wiring kit I need to have wires going to the fuse block. Is this the current wire that runs to the original alternator?
Thanks to the folks at Dewitts.
I also bought a one-wire 100amp alternator from Summit.
Once I have everything installed I will post some pictures.
My only questions have to do with the alternator:
Will my amp gauge still work?
Do I have to do anything besides running a 8-gage wire with a fuse link from the starter to the alternator?
According to the instructions that came with the Painless high-output wiring kit I need to have wires going to the fuse block. Is this the current wire that runs to the original alternator?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
That will just bypass the fuse block Brian.
OK i'll give this a try.
8 gauge wire has very little resistance and alternator current to the battery through the starter connection will fully bypass that fuse block. The fuse block is "bypassed" in that diagram of yours. But i don't see the fuse block in my wiring diagram for your 1973 - so i really can't tell u where it should be connected (if at all).
From what i see in the '73 diagram is the red alternator wire connects to a "junction block" (it on the drivers fender well on my '74). The '73 wiring diagram has a brown fusible link spliced into the stock red wire from that junction block to the starter red wire on the "B" terminal.
That section of red wire and brown fusible link is a resistance "shunt" that your ammeter needs to operate correctly - a #8 bypass wire will change that resistance.
If u need an explanation of a shunt type ammeter u will have to Google it.
My guess is the ammeter won't work correctly anymore as far as the amount of current (-40 to +40 amps) but should still have correct polarity (+ = charge or - = drain). It won't hurt a thing to "bypass" the junction block - except for the ammeter reading.
Hope this helps more than it hurts.
cardo0
8 gauge wire has very little resistance and alternator current to the battery through the starter connection will fully bypass that fuse block. The fuse block is "bypassed" in that diagram of yours. But i don't see the fuse block in my wiring diagram for your 1973 - so i really can't tell u where it should be connected (if at all).
From what i see in the '73 diagram is the red alternator wire connects to a "junction block" (it on the drivers fender well on my '74). The '73 wiring diagram has a brown fusible link spliced into the stock red wire from that junction block to the starter red wire on the "B" terminal.
That section of red wire and brown fusible link is a resistance "shunt" that your ammeter needs to operate correctly - a #8 bypass wire will change that resistance.
If u need an explanation of a shunt type ammeter u will have to Google it.My guess is the ammeter won't work correctly anymore as far as the amount of current (-40 to +40 amps) but should still have correct polarity (+ = charge or - = drain). It won't hurt a thing to "bypass" the junction block - except for the ammeter reading.
Hope this helps more than it hurts.
cardo0
