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I was talking that the 400 block is wider between the main cap bolts over a 350 block and being they are wider on the 400 they are a weaker a set up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My comment was meant to be tongue in cheek. It guess that didn't come across in this format. But I'm not 100% sure I agree with you on this. I'm too lazy to run an FEA analysis on the two though so I'll defer to you if you like.
My point is that the oem 400 blocks are good for street/mild race setups within certain constraints. One has to know it's limits and when it's better to go with the newer blocks per your chevelles.com reference.
My comment was meant to be tongue in cheek. It guess that didn't come across in this format. But I'm not 100% sure I agree with you on this. I'm too lazy to run an FEA analysis on the two though so I'll defer to you if you like.
My point is that the oem 400 blocks are good for street/mild race setups within certain constraints. One has to know it's limits and when it's better to go with the newer blocks per your chevelles.com reference.
Its not to hard to figure out with the bolt holes farther apart on main caps makes for a weaker main cap.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
The way to go these days is SHP block with as big a crank as you can put in it. It won't take a 4 inch stroke out of the factory but you can probably get away with a ~3.8" stroke crank. You really don't want to have to clearance a new block.
My Motown block is the only "affordable" performance block that will take a 4 inch crank. I know someone here doesn't like them, I had mine gone thru by an expert and I love mine so please just leave it at that. It's run like a clock for over 3 years.
I put together a 550HP / 510TQ 406ci with a 2 bolt OEM 400ci block with ARP studded mains 7 or so years ago and it's still running today. It's all in the details and who puts them together. Some blow up some don't, find the guy in your neck of the woods who builds the ones that don't blow up
We won't put a 4 inch arm in a 9.000 deck OEM block as your getting to small with the base circle of the cam. Lifter hate small base circle cams!!!!
We have been building quite a few of the 3.875 X 4.155 with the Dart SHP block and with the Callies rotators we have been using a 1.000 base circle cams. On some of the builds we have gone to he .903 lifters with the .810 wheel which a .842 lifter uses a .750 wheel.
Actually Morel is releasing a hyd. roller lifter in the next week or so. That being said with the bigger lifter body, bigger wheel and bigger axel its a win win situation.
Any links to those Morel Hyd roller lifters? Also, how do you think a GM Sportsman block (400/350m) would hold up for a 427sbc? Dart SHP also? Thanks!
Any links to those Morel Hyd roller lifters? Also, how do you think a GM Sportsman block (400/350m) would hold up for a 427sbc? Dart SHP also? Thanks!
If we were to build a 427 SBC we would use the Little-M sportsman or the Little-M with billet caps and build a 4.185 X 3.875 that wya we xan use a 1.000 base circle cam.
The Bowties will work but require alot of clearancing to get even a 3.750 stroke in those blocks some times.
The SHP blocks we have built some 421's buy using a 4.155 X 3.875 which seems very popular.
On the lifters I am waiting on the first batch of HYD. rollers as I a ccoupld of builds fo them plus the cams have already been cut for the .810 wheel
Word of caution on World blocks if theire is a problem with there block that is a good chance they won't take them back!!! Reason being World does not machine their own blocks royal oak in mich machines them. I gues world is noting but a vendor for royal oak.
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