82 crossfire plentum torque specs Pattern?
I am in the middle of replacing the intake manifold gaskets on the 82 crossfire injected.
upon removal of the plentum I noticed that it had no gasket at all only a thin layer of clear gasket stuff not really much of a seal. Thus I am thinking the main reason for the air leak in that area, I went ahead and removed the manifold, cleaned it and replace the intake gaskets and torqued them to spec.
I have searched for the torque specs on the plentum and the tightening pattern. I can not locate these specs any place.
Some help would be greatly appriciated.
With the new gasket in place I do not want to risk breaking it due to over tightening or mis pattern tightening of it.
Thank you
Marcus
After the intake project is done. Im gonna be looking at the breaking system of the car, e-brake doesnt work and the front calipers are loose.
Marcus
I put everything back on in reverse order that I took them off,
Now the car runs like crap....
I made sure I followed the firing order with the plug wires to the distributor.
She fires right up, but put it in gear and it still runs like it has a serous air leak.
any idea as to what happened????
Marcus
I put everything back on in reverse order that I took them off,
Now the car runs like crap....
I made sure I followed the firing order with the plug wires to the distributor.
She fires right up, but put it in gear and it still runs like it has a serous air leak.
any idea as to what happened????
Marcus
I assume you disconnected the IAC's when you pulled that all off. Normally it will run like crap until they reset...to do that you need to drive for a mile at 35 mph. You may as well pull the fuse near the ECM and clear it so the engine can relearn with the new gaskets.
Can you post some pictures? Aside from the above. Could be a few things. You sure you put the distributor back in pefectly or are you off a tooth or two?
Can you post some pictures? Aside from the above. Could be a few things. You sure you put the distributor back in pefectly or are you off a tooth or two?
I didnt know to reset the Iac that way, on the firebird i own its way differant, pedle down slightly start car, run for 5 sec, turn off cout to 10 then restart car that pretty much resets it.
The dist could be off a tooth or two, after doing some looking on the net this could be my main issue. I had planned on pulling the cap and rotating the motor until the dist lined back up to the markes I made on the inside, then pulling it and moving it clockwise a tooth to see if that makes a differance.
Thank you for responding to my post. I appriciate it.
Can you post some pictures? Aside from the above. Could be a few things. You sure you put the distributor back in pefectly or are you off a tooth or two?
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n566/chronos52/
I hope these help, I got the left side, right side, and from the rear to the front.
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n566/chronos52/
I hope these help, I got the left side, right side, and from the rear to the front.
If you have to... Bring the timing mark up to "0" and see if the rotor is pointing to number 1 or 6 in the distributor. Just because its directly at 1 or 6 does not mean you are okay you could be out a full turn of the crank. You need to be at "0" on the mark, 1 in the distributor but piston one has to be up....not down.
Looking at the pictures....are you sure the wiring is right. Usually 2 and 3 wire runs around the front. No wires should run around the back...is that what you did and why I don't see wires 2 and 3? Shop manual BTW says wire 2 and 3 must run around the front....don't know why but they are pretty specific about that.
Check the fuses too....maybe you blew one or two.
Exactly what is it doing? Missing? Or idling high? You say it feels like it has a serious air leak. If thats all it is its definitely the IAC's that need to be reset. After I pulled mine apart and put it back together my idle hit almost 2500 and wouldn't come down. I pulled the fuse near the ECM for 30 seconds. Put it back. Started the car...rammed it into drive befor the RPM got to high and went for a drive. The IAC's reset and the idle dropped to 550 rpm.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; Feb 7, 2011 at 10:08 PM.
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If you have to... Bring the timing mark up to "0" and see if the rotor is pointing to number 1 or 6 in the distributor. Just because its directly at 1 or 6 does not mean you are okay you could be out a full turn of the crank. You need to be at "0" on the mark, 1 in the distributor but piston one has to be up....not down.
Looking at the pictures....are you sure the wiring is right. Usually 2 and 3 wire runs around the front. No wires should run around the back...is that what you did and why I don't see wires 2 and 3? Shop manual BTW says wire 2 and 3 must run around the front....don't know why but they are pretty specific about that.
Check the fuses too....maybe you blew one or two.
Exactly what is it doing? Missing? Or idling high? You say it feels like it has a serious air leak. If thats all it is its definitely the IAC's that need to be reset. After I pulled mine apart and put it back together my idle hit almost 2500 and wouldn't come down. I pulled the fuse near the ECM for 30 seconds. Put it back. Started the car...rammed it into drive befor the RPM got to high and went for a drive. The IAC's reset and the idle dropped to 550 rpm.
Jim
the wires, the plug wires run down and behind and underneath the exhaust manifold. this keeps them out of the way and out off the heat im assuming thats how they were when i started working on it so I left it.










