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82 crossfire plentum torque specs Pattern?

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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Default 82 crossfire plentum torque specs Pattern?

hey guys,
I am in the middle of replacing the intake manifold gaskets on the 82 crossfire injected.
upon removal of the plentum I noticed that it had no gasket at all only a thin layer of clear gasket stuff not really much of a seal. Thus I am thinking the main reason for the air leak in that area, I went ahead and removed the manifold, cleaned it and replace the intake gaskets and torqued them to spec.

I have searched for the torque specs on the plentum and the tightening pattern. I can not locate these specs any place.
Some help would be greatly appriciated.
With the new gasket in place I do not want to risk breaking it due to over tightening or mis pattern tightening of it.

Thank you

Marcus
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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According to the 1982 Corvette shop manual (ST-364-82), intake bolts (to head) are set to 30lbs (page 6A4-26) and top manifold plate is set to 20-34lbs (page 6A4-5). With that said however, DCS has a downloadable document (http://www.crossfireinjection.net/how_to.htm) for their manifold with slightly different specs. They even have a diagram with the torque sequence.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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Default big help

Originally Posted by rmm82
According to the 1982 Corvette shop manual (ST-364-82), intake bolts (to head) are set to 30lbs (page 6A4-26) and top manifold plate is set to 20-34lbs (page 6A4-5). With that said however, DCS has a downloadable document (http://www.crossfireinjection.net/how_to.htm) for their manifold with slightly different specs. They even have a diagram with the torque sequence.
Thank you for the information and the link its helpfull. I will save the link for future referance.
After the intake project is done. Im gonna be looking at the breaking system of the car, e-brake doesnt work and the front calipers are loose.

Marcus
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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Default what happened????

ok so I replace the intake manifold gaskets and got it torqued down to 30ft lbs. I replaced the plentum gasket and got the plentum tightened down.
I put everything back on in reverse order that I took them off,
Now the car runs like crap....
I made sure I followed the firing order with the plug wires to the distributor.
She fires right up, but put it in gear and it still runs like it has a serous air leak.
any idea as to what happened????

Marcus
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by chronos51
ok so I replace the intake manifold gaskets and got it torqued down to 30ft lbs. I replaced the plentum gasket and got the plentum tightened down.
I put everything back on in reverse order that I took them off,
Now the car runs like crap....
I made sure I followed the firing order with the plug wires to the distributor.
She fires right up, but put it in gear and it still runs like it has a serous air leak.
any idea as to what happened????

Marcus

I assume you disconnected the IAC's when you pulled that all off. Normally it will run like crap until they reset...to do that you need to drive for a mile at 35 mph. You may as well pull the fuse near the ECM and clear it so the engine can relearn with the new gaskets.

Can you post some pictures? Aside from the above. Could be a few things. You sure you put the distributor back in pefectly or are you off a tooth or two?
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
I assume you disconnected the IAC's when you pulled that all off. Normally it will run like crap until they reset...to do that you need to drive for a mile at 35 mph. You may as well pull the fuse near the ECM and clear it so the engine can relearn with the new gaskets.

Can you post some pictures? Aside from the above. Could be a few things. You sure you put the distributor back in pefectly or are you off a tooth or two?
I will get som pics as soon as I can.

I didnt know to reset the Iac that way, on the firebird i own its way differant, pedle down slightly start car, run for 5 sec, turn off cout to 10 then restart car that pretty much resets it.

The dist could be off a tooth or two, after doing some looking on the net this could be my main issue. I had planned on pulling the cap and rotating the motor until the dist lined back up to the markes I made on the inside, then pulling it and moving it clockwise a tooth to see if that makes a differance.
Thank you for responding to my post. I appriciate it.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
I assume you disconnected the IAC's when you pulled that all off. Normally it will run like crap until they reset...to do that you need to drive for a mile at 35 mph. You may as well pull the fuse near the ECM and clear it so the engine can relearn with the new gaskets.

Can you post some pictures? Aside from the above. Could be a few things. You sure you put the distributor back in pefectly or are you off a tooth or two?
pics are on photobucket
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n566/chronos52/
I hope these help, I got the left side, right side, and from the rear to the front.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by chronos51
pics are on photobucket
http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n566/chronos52/
I hope these help, I got the left side, right side, and from the rear to the front.
Distributor positioning looks good.But you never know. I wouldn't mess with it until you rule out the IAC reset.

If you have to... Bring the timing mark up to "0" and see if the rotor is pointing to number 1 or 6 in the distributor. Just because its directly at 1 or 6 does not mean you are okay you could be out a full turn of the crank. You need to be at "0" on the mark, 1 in the distributor but piston one has to be up....not down.

Looking at the pictures....are you sure the wiring is right. Usually 2 and 3 wire runs around the front. No wires should run around the back...is that what you did and why I don't see wires 2 and 3? Shop manual BTW says wire 2 and 3 must run around the front....don't know why but they are pretty specific about that.

Check the fuses too....maybe you blew one or two.

Exactly what is it doing? Missing? Or idling high? You say it feels like it has a serious air leak. If thats all it is its definitely the IAC's that need to be reset. After I pulled mine apart and put it back together my idle hit almost 2500 and wouldn't come down. I pulled the fuse near the ECM for 30 seconds. Put it back. Started the car...rammed it into drive befor the RPM got to high and went for a drive. The IAC's reset and the idle dropped to 550 rpm.

Jim

Last edited by jdp6000; Feb 7, 2011 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 10:36 PM
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From: Twin Falls Id
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
Distributor positioning looks good.But you never know. I wouldn't mess with it until you rule out the IAC reset.

If you have to... Bring the timing mark up to "0" and see if the rotor is pointing to number 1 or 6 in the distributor. Just because its directly at 1 or 6 does not mean you are okay you could be out a full turn of the crank. You need to be at "0" on the mark, 1 in the distributor but piston one has to be up....not down.

Looking at the pictures....are you sure the wiring is right. Usually 2 and 3 wire runs around the front. No wires should run around the back...is that what you did and why I don't see wires 2 and 3? Shop manual BTW says wire 2 and 3 must run around the front....don't know why but they are pretty specific about that.

Check the fuses too....maybe you blew one or two.

Exactly what is it doing? Missing? Or idling high? You say it feels like it has a serious air leak. If thats all it is its definitely the IAC's that need to be reset. After I pulled mine apart and put it back together my idle hit almost 2500 and wouldn't come down. I pulled the fuse near the ECM for 30 seconds. Put it back. Started the car...rammed it into drive befor the RPM got to high and went for a drive. The IAC's reset and the idle dropped to 550 rpm.

Jim
ok she starts good, idles ok for a few min then wants to shut down. I put it in reverse and she nearly died, i applied a little fuel to get it in the street just to c how it did in drive... no power at all. i believe i did get the dizzy in a tooth off, this weekend im taking a timming light to it.
the wires, the plug wires run down and behind and underneath the exhaust manifold. this keeps them out of the way and out off the heat im assuming thats how they were when i started working on it so I left it.
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