Clutch Ball Stud question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 5
From: Brown Summit North Carolina
Clutch Ball Stud question
I replaced my clutch a couple of years ago and when all was back together , I found that I had a problem. Turned out the ball stud in the bellhousing was too short for the new clutch assy. I bought a Mr. Gasket adjustable unit and it solved the problem mostly , was was never 100%. Then a year later it's lock nut came loose and I had to use a punch to tap it back tight. I have not like this ever since.
I am taking the motor out this winter to detail and clean. While out I want to put the correct 1 piece stud back in.
Year one states that there are 2 lengths, 1-1/2 and 1-3/4
But I have dug up the old stud I removed 2 years ago and it was only 1-5/16" long.
So the must be at least 3 sizes.
Now how to I know if 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 is correct for me to use?
Car is a 71 with a 350
Thanks
David
I am taking the motor out this winter to detail and clean. While out I want to put the correct 1 piece stud back in.
Year one states that there are 2 lengths, 1-1/2 and 1-3/4
But I have dug up the old stud I removed 2 years ago and it was only 1-5/16" long.
So the must be at least 3 sizes.
Now how to I know if 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 is correct for me to use?
Car is a 71 with a 350
Thanks
David
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,030
Likes: 17
From: White Pine / Dandridge TN
Years ago I replaced my ball stud. I simply went to the local chevy dealer, game him my specs and he sold me a ball stud. It worked perfectly and the noise I was getting in my clutch went away. I don't normally recommend nor got to my local chevy dealer but in this case it was worth it as it took the guess work out of getting the correct ball stud. May be worth a shot.
Jim
Jim
Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
Oh Boy, What Fun!
I'm going through this at the moment too. 4.75 inches isn't always correct. It is for stock standard but if you have a block protector you have to subtract that, if you have a different height clutch package that means more alterations. Do you have a scattershield? More calculations! Oh, there are more than 2 or 3 different lengths of TO bearings too. The new TO bearing I've got now is 2mm different from the one I took out. I'm going to use an adjustable pivot ball. There are ways to secure the lock nut.
I can't remember where I got it but I've got a diagram that shows the clutch fork, when assembled and pressed against the TO bearing, should be parallel to the engine block. This means you have to install the bellhousing and adjust the pivot ball. Take the bellhousing off and lock in place. Then re-install.
Having fun yet???
Bud.
I can't remember where I got it but I've got a diagram that shows the clutch fork, when assembled and pressed against the TO bearing, should be parallel to the engine block. This means you have to install the bellhousing and adjust the pivot ball. Take the bellhousing off and lock in place. Then re-install.
Having fun yet???
Bud.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 5
From: Brown Summit North Carolina
I'm going through this at the moment too. 4.75 inches isn't always correct. It is for stock standard but if you have a block protector you have to subtract that, if you have a different height clutch package that means more alterations. Do you have a scattershield? More calculations! Oh, there are more than 2 or 3 different lengths of TO bearings too. The new TO bearing I've got now is 2mm different from the one I took out. I'm going to use an adjustable pivot ball. There are ways to secure the lock nut.
I can't remember where I got it but I've got a diagram that shows the clutch fork, when assembled and pressed against the TO bearing, should be parallel to the engine block. This means you have to install the bellhousing and adjust the pivot ball. Take the bellhousing off and lock in place. Then re-install.
Having fun yet???
Bud.
I can't remember where I got it but I've got a diagram that shows the clutch fork, when assembled and pressed against the TO bearing, should be parallel to the engine block. This means you have to install the bellhousing and adjust the pivot ball. Take the bellhousing off and lock in place. Then re-install.
Having fun yet???
Bud.
I think I will go with a automatic transmission, sounds like it may be a easier job than figuring out the damn ball stud delima
Thanks to all who helped
David
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
GM sold two length ball studs. I posted a couple of years ago when I did my TKO with a block saver plate and a thinner machined flywheel.
I tried the junk adjustables. all you needed was the longer GM for $14.95 from the local dealer. Just don't say Corvette. Say Firebird
I tried the junk adjustables. all you needed was the longer GM for $14.95 from the local dealer. Just don't say Corvette. Say Firebird
The ORIGINAL and bestest
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From: Toronto Ontario
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
All you have to do is go to the GM local dealer parts counter and ask for the 70's pontiac longer pivot ball stud.
Block savers really work.........I broke my crankshaft in my first 427 small block. The block saver was destroyed because the flywheel and the rear part of the crank was still connected to the rear tires and going over 90 MPH before I could push in the clutch and whip the tranny into "N"
Block savers really work.........I broke my crankshaft in my first 427 small block. The block saver was destroyed because the flywheel and the rear part of the crank was still connected to the rear tires and going over 90 MPH before I could push in the clutch and whip the tranny into "N"
Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
I'm no expert....
and most others here have vast more experience than I will ever will have. What I don't understand is how can one expect to have one of two different pivot-ball lengths to solve all the vast number of variables? For some reason my TO bearing is 2mm thicker, I haven't bothered to measure my Mcleods clutch package but it wouldn't surprise me if it is a different height to the one I took out. I've got a scattershield in, block protector and an aftermarket flywheel. All of the variables may add up to nothing - then again it may accumulate to a substantial figure. For me, I'm not gonna fart around wondering if I need a long one or a short one. I want to install and adjust the fork itself and be done with it. I'll leave the minor adjustment on the clutch linkage for the disc wear. I don't know how hard it is to remove a tranny from a C3 but it's no fun in a C2. I don't want to remove it again unless I absolutely have to!
Bud
Bud
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
more clutch &&%$$#$%%
wow I did not know how much trouble I was getting in to. I replaced my stock clutch with a Zoom package, an after market flywheel, lakewood blow proof, and an after market T O bearing and at least a case of beer! Who would have thought the trouble I was causing myself. It would have been great to just bolt it all together ONE time and have it work, but it is a CORVETTE! I`m sorry but I am glad to see it wasn`t just me. Sorry guy`s but obviously misery is love`s company! The 4 spd is a lot more fun than an auto, but what a pain in the #$@! Can`t wait til I get it all figured out and have it work properly. If you can get that tranny out of your C3 with out pulling the motor too good luck and you must be using a lift? Oh and don`t try to pull the motor unless you have a LONG engine hoist, you will not get past the front end with a stock puller. You learn that the hard way sometimes. This car better really be fast when I`m done
!!!!!
!!!!!
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 518
Likes: 12
From: Panhandle
Corvette: Trans Challenges
Been there! Here are some of my thoughts:
Think you have it bad? Read this post!! I learned the most from it. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...sengaging.html
This is my post and my solution. Trick is......take your time, be safe and read previous posts.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-solution.html
You gotta go from the side.
Cheers.
Think you have it bad? Read this post!! I learned the most from it. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...sengaging.html
This is my post and my solution. Trick is......take your time, be safe and read previous posts.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-solution.html
Cheers.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 971
Likes: 45
From: Middlesex NJ
I used a QuickTime RM-6022 bellhousing that comes with a block-saver plate. The pair is designed to work together and not change the relationship of the ball-stud and pressure plate.
The block-saver is meant to be used with the bell, it is NOT an add-on.
The block-saver is meant to be used with the bell, it is NOT an add-on.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 5
From: Brown Summit North Carolina
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 518
Likes: 12
From: Panhandle
Adjustable Pivot Ball
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 518
Likes: 12
From: Panhandle
Adjustable Pivot Ball
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Pulling the gearbox out with the OEM bell is easy, relatively speaking. But putting it back in with the Lakewood bell and blockplate is almost impossible as the Lakewood is longer than the OEM bell, plus the blockplate is 1/4" thick. Struggle is too kind a word.