Checking my Acuator's function
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: McLouth Kansas
Checking my Acuator's function
This winter one of my projects is to fix the looseness in my headlights,,,I'm tired of them jiggling when I drive at night. I have found the worn parts and have that under control,,,I think.
My lights open up but they don't just pop open either, but,,, I do not really have any idea as to how quickly they should open,,,last year I installed all new lines and that helped a lot and they open in about 3 seconds time almost together, before the new lines they were really slow and sluggish, first one and then the other would finally open.
While the access is easy, I want to make sure if the Acuator's are in acceptable condition. Is there some kind of a check routine I can perform on them.
For starters the boot on one is broken and hanging on the rod and the other one is not much better,,,I know I need to replace them, but where do I go from there.
Thanks
My lights open up but they don't just pop open either, but,,, I do not really have any idea as to how quickly they should open,,,last year I installed all new lines and that helped a lot and they open in about 3 seconds time almost together, before the new lines they were really slow and sluggish, first one and then the other would finally open.
While the access is easy, I want to make sure if the Acuator's are in acceptable condition. Is there some kind of a check routine I can perform on them.
For starters the boot on one is broken and hanging on the rod and the other one is not much better,,,I know I need to replace them, but where do I go from there.
Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 154
From: Deplorableville Nebraska
You may not need to replace your actuators. There is a simple check anyone can perform on the components to verify their condition. Get yourself a Mityvac, a simple hand held vacuum pump. Connect it to your new line from either side of your actuator. Simply pump out the air from the actuator and see if it holds vacuum. Do this on both sides. If the front seal leaks, it can be replaced rather easily. If the rear leaks vacuum, the actuator is toast.
The second vacuum pump test is done on the relay. Simply connect the mityvac hose to the middle port, and block off the lower port. If it's the original relay, it may slowly lose vacuum when pumped down. There are several methods of repair on the relays you can do. Find out their condition first.
If you want to study how the headlight vacuum system works, see the sticky post near the top of the page...
The second vacuum pump test is done on the relay. Simply connect the mityvac hose to the middle port, and block off the lower port. If it's the original relay, it may slowly lose vacuum when pumped down. There are several methods of repair on the relays you can do. Find out their condition first.
If you want to study how the headlight vacuum system works, see the sticky post near the top of the page...
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
The headlight mechanism is designed to go over-center when the lights are fully raised. When they are adjusted so that happens, they will be locked in the up position and won't jiggle and appear loose. When they are closed, the actuator will pull the mechanism back past the over-center position so they will close.
If you have a headlight warning light on the i/p, it will go on as the headlights go and are raising, and go out when the lights are up and locked over-center. When properly adjusted it's a pretty good system, although a lot slower than C4 & C5 electrically actuated headlights. If they open or close in ~2 seconds, they are about as good as they get.
Pete
If you have a headlight warning light on the i/p, it will go on as the headlights go and are raising, and go out when the lights are up and locked over-center. When properly adjusted it's a pretty good system, although a lot slower than C4 & C5 electrically actuated headlights. If they open or close in ~2 seconds, they are about as good as they get.
Pete
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: McLouth Kansas
Thanks Guys,,
Petez06,,,,,After my post I found out that the shoulder bolt's were missing the bushing, leaving room for play and the nylon bearings are sloopy as well. I do see what you mean about the light linkage going past center and locking up. I'm going to replace all the bushings required in each side.
DaveJ,,,,,,,I have a vac source I can borrow and check the Acuators as you have described,,,,,as a routine, I will replace the rubber front seals,,,,
Thanks
Petez06,,,,,After my post I found out that the shoulder bolt's were missing the bushing, leaving room for play and the nylon bearings are sloopy as well. I do see what you mean about the light linkage going past center and locking up. I'm going to replace all the bushings required in each side.
DaveJ,,,,,,,I have a vac source I can borrow and check the Acuators as you have described,,,,,as a routine, I will replace the rubber front seals,,,,
Thanks
