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Thinking about Powerjection III efi

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by condor7
Anyone have a lead on those very nice Sting Ray engraved valve covers?? I would like to know where to get a pair.
Sorry, I meant to get back to you about them. Those valve covers in the pic I posted of my engine are tall Billet Specialties that I had custom CNC engraved.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 7t2vette
Sorry, I meant to get back to you about them. Those valve covers in the pic I posted of my engine are tall Billet Specialties that I had custom CNC engraved.
They look great!! I have a pair of tall polished aluminum valcovers I am using now but they are without any logos or emblems. They look fine but I like yours much better.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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Default Carb is the problem

Found the vacuum leak giving me a fit. It seems the throttle shaft to the carb is worn out and letting lots of air in the carb. Intake manifould gaskets are fine. At least I don't have to change them. Tested with brake cleaner and sure enough primary throttle shaft is wobblely. Just enough to feel it and just enough to alter airflow. Wanted to find this problem before doing anything else.

PJ III is on the way. Got the fuel sending unit in. Don't think I'll try and put a 3/8 line in it. I think there is a better way with what is called a bulkhead fitting from Russell (others may have the same thing). Read about it on another post and like the idea. Do not have to put heat or anything on the new fuel sender. Was concerned about that and where the wire comes through it to connect to the car harness. Looks like a rubber and some other material seal that can not be removed without creating damage to it.

Looks like there is no issue with having the return line coming in from the bottom (this is where the sending unit is located on my 68). If someone is experiencing an issue with this type of setup let me know. Of course everything will be AN fittings to ensure a good seal.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 02:41 PM
  #24  
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By the way motor is sensitive to vacuum leak because of the cam. Only gets about 11-12 in anyway and when that is disrupted then the engine is not happy. Ya, it sounds very nice through the super comp side headers. Oh yes, going next week to pick up the 3:08 rear for it. Man am I going to be busy. Also got the spal fan controller in. Too bad the PJ III does not offer fan control like the Fast EZ but then that is just one of the suttle differences.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 10:12 AM
  #25  
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Default Have the parts

Well I now have the 3:08 rear end, the Powerjection III and the Spal fan controller waiting to go into the car. Went to the speed shop the other day and got the plumming stuff I needed for the fuel line and all fittings. Decided to use a blukhead fitting in the sending unit rather than try to weld in a line. This will also allow for a AN6 couple right there at the return side. Was concerned about to much heat on the sending unit destroying the electrics. (the sending unit electrical connector). Will take some pictures and post to better explain what I am doing. Fuel line (using aluminum) and all the AN 6 fitings ran about $182. This also includes a AN filter. Was going to use the alterternate fuel filter that is recommended in place of the GM, the purolator, but would need 1/4 to AN adapters. Just went with a very good 10 micron efi rated filter with AN connectors on both sides. The filter can be removed and cleaned so no need to keep replacing.
Now have to get all the carb stuff off and get to work with the PJ III. Will need to get the 02 installed in the collector and so on. Will weld that in. Will go into the drivers side collector, not enough wire leads to get to passenger side.

Last edited by condor7; Feb 26, 2011 at 10:15 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Bowerss2
was it returning it and installing a F.A.S.T? i have heard good things about them.
Really? Really a necessary comment? I do know a local who, after sending his FAST back 3 times put in a powerjection to get it to run right if that makes a difference.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by baxsom
Really? Really a necessary comment? I do know a local who, after sending his FAST back 3 times put in a powerjection to get it to run right if that makes a difference.
Ive had no problem with my fast setup, weird!
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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Default Getting there

Made some progeress with the PJIII system and installing the Spar fan controller. Ran a fuel line almost identical to the origionals using aluminum rather than the steel. It is much more forgiving and easier to work with. Got the fuel pump mounted and the filter. Also drained the fuel, cleared the tank and installed a "bulkhead" AN 6 connector for the return line flow. I decided against drilling into the sender and trying to go that route.

The fan controller is in and ready to be programmed.

Had a little plumming to get done up in the engine bay and picked up the compression AN6 fitting today to get the job finished. Will need to wire the pump and the PJ III in but not a big deal as I already had a wire run for my old electric pump.

Additional cost of the conversion is about $200 for aluminum fuel line, AN6 various fittings and a little wire.

I have taken pictures and will post them shortly. (Need to see how to do that).

As for some mention of the various FI systems and brands out there, well like I said before, PJ III is just my personal preference. It is easier for me to work with. I would think any FI in a shark is going to be a remarkable improvement no matter what. I am so looking forward to making smoke the first time and watching my laptop to see what the engine is doing.

Oh yes I had to remove the drivers side header to get the O2 bung in correctly. I was going to try the welding with the header on the car but that would have been a desaster. Can't tell you how much fun it is to r&r the side mount header. Put the bung in the collector just about 3 inches from where all pipe are coming together. Any more than that and then there will be trouble getting the side mounted tube to go all the way on.

Like I said pictures to come.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 02:56 PM
  #29  
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just kidding, can't wait to see them, I'm still waiting for a scotch lock tee to connect the tach signal wire to the tach wire going into the dizzy
Nick
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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Default Made Smoke

Well finally got the PJ installed and made smoke today. The response just sitting in the garage is so much better than the carb. Before I post pictures I must tell you about my experience with product support. I experienced a problem getting the Dashboard software to communicate with the PJ. I sent an email to both the Retrotek folks and to Professional Products asking for help in determining what the problem is. Within 24 hours I had an answer from both sources and I got the problem solved. It actually was a firmware update that I was unaware of and I received instructions on exactly what to do to fix it. Once I got communication with the PJ III and after a couple of settings then the engine fired right up and never missed a beat. Have not road tested yet but I am confident everything will be fine. My hat is off to the excellent support form Doug Stalter from Professional Products and Bryce Cegieski of Retrotek Speed. So if you have a concern about support after the sale, well I can't speak for the other systems but I am totally satified with the folks supporting and standing behind the PJ III. Oh did I mention I did not buy the unt from either of them, got it from a friend on the bay who went very radical and did not want this system.
I followed all the instructions and everything went smooth. If you decide to go FI just think it through on what you will need and how you want to run fuel lines. All in all I am very satisfied. Can't wait to get driving her and get the adaptive learn going. Took every one's advice and used as much hard line as possible, no gas smell in the garage.
I started a garage and added photo's, just need to figure out how to post them.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Needed to use a 1 in spacer for clearance of regulator and feed line. Everything is sitting on an Edlebrock Performer. Pic of my fuel return. Plumed a new line and used a AN6 bulkhead connector. Works fine. Mounted fuel pump on drivers side rail with filter just forward of it. New sending unit in tank with a good sock type filter. Picture of super comp header pipe where O2 will go. Had to make the location and then remove header for welding. I captioned all the photo's but it did not transfer for some reason. Pic of unit sitting on the engine, looks great!! had to make longer mounting studs as the heat insulator plate takes up some room and that caused the studs I had to be a little short. Checked for height of everything including air cleaner (3") and all fits well in the cowl in the L88 hood that I have on her.

Last edited by condor7; Mar 26, 2011 at 08:25 PM. Reason: double copy of some photos
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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Default Position of return line

I positioned the return line so it would not interfer with the spare tire. Wife will not go anywhere with me with out the spare. We have only been towed back to the house twice and only once was my fault. After all this will start getting busy getting the 3.08 rear end in her. Already have the TKO 5 speed so this all should work out great for cruising.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #33  
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Default Aluminum Line

Had some Aluminum line left over so polished it up and fitted some for vacuum line on the engine. Looks great. Just a little more very easy bling!!. You can see a part of it on the picture that shows the passenger side PCV valve. That is also getin a Billet Speciality cover. Love that bling.
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Default Picture of the Vette



Brought it home as just a frame, 5 1/2 years later it is done but i keep doing things to it. You know the drill, "buy it things it doesn't need and drive it like you stole it". At least the wife knows where I am at.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 09:02 AM
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Very impressive is all I can say. If you are considering going to FI then go for it. My first test drive so the system could "adadptive learn" was uneventful and interesting. I kept the laptop with me and looked ever so often at what the engine was doing. Kept a steady 13.7/13.8 AF ratio. This noticably changed when I went into 5 gear at 45 MPH. Dropped to 12.5 and kind of just stayed there. My thinking had been get into the higher gear, drop the rpms and save fuel and engine heat. Not so according to the laptop. Went back into 4th gear and engine got very happy again. Does not being lugged. Cold start is absolutly great. Engine rolled about 2 times and fired right up, never touched the trottle. No evil exhaust like I had before. A rich mix from the carb at cold start would burn your eyes and stink up the garage. No so with the FI. I did not really lean on the throttle just yet but I can tell already that it's nowhere near the throttle pressure is required that I used to have to do. Next trip will do some data logging and see what else is going on. Good news is no throttle lag, instant response and it feels like it just wants to go go go. Can't speak for the other EFI's out there but I am totally satified with the PJ III. I did install a kill switch inside the car. I don't use the ashtry so made a plate where it goes and put a rocker switch there. Can still slide the ashtray cover closed and it covers the switch. Wanted a kill device should something bad happen. Also the PJ III system controls the fuel pump, should the engine stop running, the fuel pump is automatically shut off. A neat safety feature.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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Good news! Congrats!

Hope to install mine soon and its good to hear positive news about the system. I need to check if there is a sw update for my PJ Stage II EMS too.

Also: great news about the automatic fuel pump shutoff by the EMS. Makes things even simpler. What does your kill switch kill? Fuel pump or the main power to the EMS?
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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So, when do I get a ride in the resurrected beast? You've been locked in the garage for months on this!

Did you carry a picture of the wife so you can recognize her after this is all over?


Looks good in pictures but I want to see it in person! Get that A/F back to 14.7 and quit fooling around!

Elmer
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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Default Kill Switch

Hi ToniH,

I used the 12 volt switched source to the ems. Basically I ran the 12 volt switched source to the switch and then ran a wire from the switch to the ems. Works great, it will immediately kill the motor and if you forget to turn it on well then it won't start either. Ask me how I know. Thought I had a problem but I was the problem. Having the kill switch in the ashtray compartment is sort of like having a anti theft device as well. It has a red led that will light up when active. Had to do that so I would know whats on and whats off. Its just me, I'm a visual kind of guy. I'll try and get a picture posted. Kill switch shuts off power to the ems which is the power supply to the fuel pump.

Last edited by condor7; Mar 28, 2011 at 03:03 PM. Reason: Explain the kill switch
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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Hi Elmer,

I need to put a tv in my garage, it has been like a second home here lately. Now that you mention it, I need to find a picture of the wife and get it in my wallet.

You and I are going to get together and do some driving so I can data log and then we both can look at the data. I just havn't told you yet.

Oh yes, the Spal fan controller works great. The piliminary drive showed the eng temp at 185. turned on the a/c and it made little difference. As for the A/F well we have to work on that.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Nice work and a very nice looking car in bronze! My leak test went all wrong, almost all swivel couplings leaked as did the fuel filter. Got my pre crimped pegasusracing teflon hoses in today and reinstalled everything (gas tank came out for the 4th time...) tomorrow another prime/leak test, knock on wood.
Glad it turns out so well for you, it gives me hope for mine.
Nick
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