Water in Oil!!
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Yah, pull the manifold & look where the water was leaking through. Check that the manifold sits level on the heads & block w/o the gaskets. Perhaps a previous owner cut the heads to increase compression or used a real thin head gasket. I always use a little gasket sealant around the water passages also.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,804
Likes: 4
From: Standing still with all my might Texas
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
It could be that your gaskets are not sealed around the water ports. It could be that you didn't seal the threads of the intake bolts (4 or 8 of which are usually threaded into the water jackets of the heads).
It could also be that you didn't drain enough coolant before removing the manifold and it spilled in there during disassembly.
Did you drain the radiator before removing the intake?
Did you drain the coolant from the block (threaded plugs on either side of the block)?
Did you notice any coolant in the lifter valley after you pulled the intake?
It could also be that you didn't drain enough coolant before removing the manifold and it spilled in there during disassembly.
Did you drain the radiator before removing the intake?
Did you drain the coolant from the block (threaded plugs on either side of the block)?
Did you notice any coolant in the lifter valley after you pulled the intake?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Did you torque the bolts starting in the middle and work out to the ends? Have you checked the torque after the motor warmed up? I will not refill the coolant until I can drive the car long enough to bring it up to operating temp. so everytinhg seals. Never refill coolant and let it sit overnight without doing this. Do not drive car with this oil in it. Ck. all things the guys will suggest. Good luck with it, mike...
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You don't need to drain the block, just drain the rad if you have drain port or loosen the bottom of the bottom rad hose.
Do you know if the block was decked or if the intake was milled ?
The water ports need sealant around them and all intake bolts should have a sealant I use Permatex 2 but with my new block there are no bolts that go into anything oil or water the are all blind tapped
Do you know if the block was decked or if the intake was milled ?
The water ports need sealant around them and all intake bolts should have a sealant I use Permatex 2 but with my new block there are no bolts that go into anything oil or water the are all blind tapped
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Thats a lot of water in just 3 miles to be lack of sealer on bolt threads. I would look at the gaskets carefully to see if they are first correct and second being compressed over the entire gasket.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 489
Likes: 1
From: Suffolk Virginia
Update:
I drained the antifreeze and crankcase, reinstalled the intake and replaced the oil. I'm going to let it set overnight before I start it up.
Not sure why it leaked before, may have rushed it. Two of the intake bolts are so close to the risers that I can't get a socket on them so I had to guess when I tightened them.
Tomorrow I'll run the engine for a few minutes, retorque the bolts then fill the radiator. Keep your fingers crossed for me!
- Jay
I drained the antifreeze and crankcase, reinstalled the intake and replaced the oil. I'm going to let it set overnight before I start it up.
Not sure why it leaked before, may have rushed it. Two of the intake bolts are so close to the risers that I can't get a socket on them so I had to guess when I tightened them.
Tomorrow I'll run the engine for a few minutes, retorque the bolts then fill the radiator. Keep your fingers crossed for me!
- Jay
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Top up the radiator just before starting. Then run engine with radiator cap off, keep it full untill you see movement in radiator, warm upper rad. hose and temp. gauge up to thermostat operating temp.. Install rad. cap and go for a drive. Watch temp. gauge during test drive. Good luck with it, mike...
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
So what was the outcome? Not picking on you Jay but it happens all the time, someone has a problem asks for an answer and never reports back as to what the out come is. Again don't take this personal it is more of a message to everyone 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 489
Likes: 1
From: Suffolk Virginia
Sorry about that, I ended up changing the carb gasket, then I had a little trouble setting the timing. Didn't get it started til late last night.
I'm happy to report that it is not leaking this time!
Thanks again for all the help everyone, this forum has been a tremendous help and has literally saved me thousands on repair bills.
I know I seem like a big ol' noob sometimes and usually break 2 things trying to fix 1, so I appreciate everyone patience.
I'm happy to report that it is not leaking this time!
Thanks again for all the help everyone, this forum has been a tremendous help and has literally saved me thousands on repair bills.
I know I seem like a big ol' noob sometimes and usually break 2 things trying to fix 1, so I appreciate everyone patience.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
Glad that worked for you! Cheap insurance would be an additional oil and filter change. Then a good long drive to run at operating temps to remove any residual moisture.
Gotta like inexpensive resolutions!!
Gotta like inexpensive resolutions!!
