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I finished tearing down my motor the other night and found a few interesting things...
I run a factory style mechanical fuel pump, and when I pulled the cam out, I noticed that the fuel pump lobe was completely wiped out. Im surprised the car didnt starve for fuel.
With a roller cam, should I still do a flat tappet style break-in if I use a mechanical fuel pump? The fuel pump pushrod looked fine, and the pump isnt any crazy high flow style either.
Should I get a different pushrod if I get a new cam?
It seems like it would be easier and only slightly more expensive to get a new cam instead of plumbing in a good external electric pump.
Both types exist, and work.
When you buy a new cam, ask the manufacturer what they recommend.
Also, when you buy a new cam you might want to steer clear of buying another one of Comp's cast iron cores.
Billet rollers are much more durable.
Comp Crap cams require a bronze tip push rod or even a roller tip. Mine mushed the pump lobe and that is when they added it to the directions years ago
Comp Crap cams require a bronze tip push rod or even a roller tip. Mine mushed the pump lobe and that is when they added it to the directions years ago
Yeah they didnt say anything in the instructions when I put mine in.
I'm running Comp Cams Solid Roller 12-704-8 and also ran the 4607 bronze tip fuel pump pushrod. During disassembly this fall I could barely get the fuel pump pushrod out of the motor. Fortunately the fuel pump cam lobe is fine, but the bronze tip sure is wearing fast. I'm wondering how many miles I would get out of the bronze tip, or if it was finally wore in/seated and I shouldn't be concerned.
The steel core cams need a bronze tip. The cheaper austempered cast ones will usually work with the stock pushrod. But one with a tip or roller will work on either. The tip one usually does very well on anything.
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