Body pull hoist strap locations
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Body pull hoist strap locations
I'm going the route of pulling the body with a two-ton engine hoist. I have the hoist fully extended and using the straps (tied knots to shorten). I have the straps placed just in front of the rear wheels and just behind the door/front clip seam. I seem to have a couple of problems:
1. Weight distribution. I've removed only the seats in the interior. The rear lifts only a foot while the front is nearly three feet off the frame.
2. Max height. I still have roughly 8" until I clear the battery box/storage compartment.
I know this method has been used successfully many times. Tips?
1. Weight distribution. I've removed only the seats in the interior. The rear lifts only a foot while the front is nearly three feet off the frame.
2. Max height. I still have roughly 8" until I clear the battery box/storage compartment.
I know this method has been used successfully many times. Tips?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Here's a decent picture that shows the weight distribution problems and the strap locations.
Also, if you look at the hoist, you can see one of the back supports is off the ground. One of the pins on the opposite legs was not properly installed and the uneven weight distribution caused it to start folding up. This is when we decided to call it quits for the day.
Also, if you look at the hoist, you can see one of the back supports is off the ground. One of the pins on the opposite legs was not properly installed and the uneven weight distribution caused it to start folding up. This is when we decided to call it quits for the day.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 590
Likes: 2
From: Fairfield CT
I ran the straps inside the doors. I also tied knots in them to shorten the reach. I don't have pix of the body when it was at full height and off the frame, but I found that as the lift rose the distance from the center of the body to the lift shortened, causing the body to tilt toward the lift. Since my lift is a cheapo PepBoys, the arm doesn't have the reach of a more expensive commercial grade one. It still did the job, though. I had removed the gas tank and the m
otor before lifting the body and rolling the chassis out from under it. I got only enough height to roll out the chassis w/o wheels on small floor dollies.
When I put it back on, I plan to put the straps on the outside of the doors with the T-tops on. That will pull the straps out further to the side, giving me more lift height, and it should be more stable than it was when I did it inside the doors.
See my blog for more pix: http://LS273Stingray.blogspot.com
otor before lifting the body and rolling the chassis out from under it. I got only enough height to roll out the chassis w/o wheels on small floor dollies.When I put it back on, I plan to put the straps on the outside of the doors with the T-tops on. That will pull the straps out further to the side, giving me more lift height, and it should be more stable than it was when I did it inside the doors.
See my blog for more pix: http://LS273Stingray.blogspot.com
Last edited by mffi115; Feb 28, 2011 at 02:59 PM. Reason: replace pix
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 590
Likes: 2
From: Fairfield CT
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 590
Likes: 2
From: Fairfield CT
I know this method has been used successfully many times. Tips?[/QUOTE]
Make sure you support the nose clip. I have a small crack on the edge of the hood opening about 6" in front of the firewall on the passenger side. Wen I rolled the body around without ensuring teh clip was supported. Right now I have a strap from the front of the t-top support bar to the front of the clip.
Make sure you support the nose clip. I have a small crack on the edge of the hood opening about 6" in front of the firewall on the passenger side. Wen I rolled the body around without ensuring teh clip was supported. Right now I have a strap from the front of the t-top support bar to the front of the clip.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
I'm not sure what the weight differences on a rear end of a '73 vs. a '75; I've also removed just about everything in the engine compartment.
I'm going to remove the doors and put the wheels on dollies. We typically had hands on the front clip at all times and supports are set up for it on the body dolly.
I'm going to remove the doors and put the wheels on dollies. We typically had hands on the front clip at all times and supports are set up for it on the body dolly.
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Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
FWIW I called a local crane company and they charged $125. for about 45 min of work. This was after I almost lost the body of a 65 after lifting with a HF engine hoist & knotted lift straps.
All part of the adrenalin rush 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
I'm not sure what the weight differences on a rear end of a '73 vs. a '75; I've also removed just about everything in the engine compartment.
I'm going to remove the doors and put the wheels on dollies. We typically had hands on the front clip at all times and supports are set up for it on the body dolly.
I'm going to remove the doors and put the wheels on dollies. We typically had hands on the front clip at all times and supports are set up for it on the body dolly.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
on a convertible but I wouldn't worry much on a t-top car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,227
Likes: 670
From: Northeast
Dont know if its too late but can you get someone to weld up a H bar like this one. My friend's 71 we did last year. Worked perfectly. And we had 7 guys just in case it didnt. Good luck. He did have to make some corrections to the dolly and this holding the car up made it much easier to raise and lower.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,227
Likes: 670
From: Northeast
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I think MyRed69 is working on a lift bar similar to the one above.
I use steel side straps on mine,they don't pull on the fiberglass rockers like the hook&straps do, they go up inside and bottom out on the birdcage.
I use steel side straps on mine,they don't pull on the fiberglass rockers like the hook&straps do, they go up inside and bottom out on the birdcage.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
One thing that might help is your front strap is a few inches back from the door-fender gap. Moving it forward to the gap will help distribute the weight better. It might be the pic but when you tied the knots are you sure the front and rear straps are the same length? In the pic the rear one looks longer which could be the problem. I tied mine also but had to adjust for length front to rear. If they are the same length moving the front strap forward may change angles enough to make the pull even.
