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Hey Kevin,
I've seen a few of your other posts but I forgot which tranny you are installing and your current engine displacement, so what I can tell you at least is what I'm running for your consideration.
I have a Dart block 555 engine linked to a TKO 600 w/ 0.64 5th OD via a QuickTime SFI rated bellhousing. I've never owned a Lakewood but the guys I know who have them and have seen my QuickTime are sold on it. It just delivers a better fit tolerance. I'm running a SPEC Stage 3+ clutch package and a 168 tooth steel SPEC flywheel. At the back I'm ready to install a new custom 12-bolt w/ 3.73 gears built by your dad earlier this winter, along with Van Steel offset T/As w/ QA1 full Coil Overs (no leaf spring & Wilwood 13" brakes) also built by Gary. I need some warm weather to allow me to drive the car over to a buddy's lift to get the new rear end and front suspension installed. I should be back on the road by late May and can update you with latest hardware improvements.
Build strong, from what I recall you have a record of being able to find the weak link
By the way, what are you going to run for rubber? I've been trying to buy some Nitto NT05R for the rear but evidently they have stopped shipping them in from Japan since September/October. I can buy 1 in the size I need
sounds like you have a pretty serious set up there. 555 big block must be making some big hp numbers and with a tko 600 it must be fun to drive. It sounds like you're using all the best parts and should be nice with the 12 bolt and new rear suspension set up.
My car is a budget hot rod, I went back to school last year so I work part time now. My corvette parts funding comes from selling parts, tax return money, and with whatever extra money I come up with.
I just have a 350 with little blower on it. Makes about 475hp and 500ft lbs of torque at motor. I'm going to run an autogear supercase m22z 4speed transmission. It is suppose to be a strong trans, has the gearing that i wanted, and should have a cool classic m22 gear whine. I was thinking about a tko but it was a little out of my price range.
Kevin, I am running around a 500 HP 383 in mine and went to a 15 pound aluminum flywheel. It made quite a difference over the 30 pound wheel I had on it. It definitely revs up much quicker. No problems at all getting started. There is plenty or torque to get the car moving and you have good gearing to get it launched.
As long as your first gear ratio is good enough (multiply it by your differential ratio to get overall gearing for take-off.) You can run a lightweight flywheel (I consider anything under 20lbs as lightweight.) Example 3.08 differential and 3.26:1 TKO Tremec gives 3.08X3.26=10.04 overall ratio and is a great starting combination. You want 9-9.5:1 as a minimum requirement.
One more example Muncie M-21 2.20 first gear and 3.70 ratio rear differential 2.20X3.70=8.14 overall starting gear (standard on many C3 LT-1's) this will be "doggy" on take-off with a flywheel weight below 30lbs.
Did the math a couple of years ago - assuming an rpm rate of ~2000 rpm per second (first gear acceleration) it showed that a 15 lb 153 tooth flywheel had a 10 hp advantage over a 30 lb 153 tooth; the advantage would be even greater over a 168 tooth flywheel.
My true opinion of that $69 dollar flywheel............................ You better have a blow proof bell housing because you might be testing it when you go out drag racing.
I got a shattered leg from a damper explosion, I've seen clutch parts fly throught the wind shield, I've seen parts fly through the steel car hoods.
I have a real fear of non high speed rated parts (SFI)