I've got a few things I need to sort out, and rather than drag on with several different threads, I figured I'd do one thread and see if you guys can't lead me in the right direction on a few things.

I've done a few fixes thus far, and am moving on to several more (pretty much all at the same time). Trying to get things squared away before the warm weather hits so I can drive this summer vs. wrench.

Here goes:

#1 - I've read on here that putting a T in the PCV line to the brake booster is a bad thing. My car has the T, and I wanted to know if it's ok to at least leave it for the time being (this summer) and address is later. How bad is it really?

My passenger side valve cover has the PCV to hose, which goes into the one outlet on the carb. Since there's one outlet, that outlet as a T on it, and the other end then goes to the brake booster. Drivers side valve cover has a breather in the oil fill hole.




#2 - What is this black thing in the picture? For whatever reason there's a hot mess with the wiring in this car. It's no coincidence that only the gas gauge and speedo work. Anyway, can anyone confirm for me what this black wire sticking up is?




#3 - I'm 100% totally new to brakes. Can you guys comment on these pictures and let me know what I'm looking at? Is the rust here negatively impacting the brakes / rotors? Anything here that needs to be addressed before I go out driving for the summer? The brakes seemed to work ok in the 2 drives I've had before she went up on jack-stands, but I have no comparison to what they should feel like.







Any and all help is truly appreciated!!

 

On the brake issue, the light rust on the edges is not a problem, rather it is common. The light rust on the face of the rotor just shows that they have not been used in a while. I would check the condition of the face for any scars or uneven wear. if they are good, you should be able to clean them up, easily. I would also check the brake pads for wear.

 

Great, thank you for the input.

 

Regarding the "T" in the brake line. I'd look at changing that if I was you. the booster isn't getting its full shot of vacuum the way it's set up. Usually the intake manifold has a plug you can remove, and put a hose barb fitting in, or a spot that is set up for a drill/tap operation for a new fitting.

 

#1. Yeah I would remove the T. There will be a fitting for a booster line either on the carb behind the intake manifold or one on the base of the carburetor itself at the rear just for this.

#2 looks like it has a grommet indicating it's supposed to go inside the car. Is it rubber or metal I can't tell from the picture?

#3. The brakes actually look pretty good. Those rotors have been replaced. Bleed all of them just to be sure and check for leaks at the calipers themselves. Provided there are no leaks, they look perfectly fine to drive on.

 

Pete,
Not sure where you are from but someone local maybe able to help. Right behind your carb on top of your intake there should be a place to put a hose barb like stocker said. On my 79 I have vacuum going to my PCV, brakes, vacuum advance, transmission, headlights, heater controls, cruise, and maybe one more thing. I think that one rubber hose you have pulled out goes to your heater controls. Look on your fire wall over on the passenger side. Right under that hood switch. Not sure though. Willcox has excellent vacuum hose diagrams you can look at for free and troubleshoot your system. simple and easy.

Dan

 

Pete, if we knew a bit more about your car it could help, L-48, L-82, automatic, A/C, etc.
#1 - The vacuum fitting folks are talking about that screws into the manifold depends on how the car is equipped. Here are just a couple...

You can go here and see which one is the one you should have.
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/c-22...-fittings.aspx

#2 - Can you trace back to where the line originates in the engine compartment? It could be one that goes to the windshield washers. As someone mentioned the grommet looks like one that goes through a bulkhead. The washer line goes through the bulkhead into the cowl area.

#3 - I agree with most others, the brakes look pretty sound. It can never hurt to bleed the brakes "while-you're-at-it" but the rust you see is very common on rotors that have not been cad plated. In your case someone has gone to the trouble to paint the hats, they just didn't paint the vanes inside of the rotor. Not a particularly easy job to do well at that.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

Thanks for all the tips folks. Sorry about the lack of car details, I should have known better by now.

Vehicle and Carb Info:

1975 Automatic

Holley 650 CFM Carburetor (List 4777-3, Model 4150)
- Stock Jetting (F)67, (R)73
- Power Valve 6.5

Motor is a crate motor - Target Master 350 made in Mexico:
350 Cubic inches 4.00" Bore, 3.47" stroke
8.5:1 compression ratio.
250 HP @4300 rpm
350 ft. lbs of torque @ 3600 rpm
( These Numbers obtained with a Quadrajet Carb,1 5/8" headers , and an Edelbrock Performer intake part # 2101)

Engine consists of the following parts:

Block -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036
2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main
Crankshaft- # 3932444
Nodular Iron 1985 and older flywheel bolt pattern.
Powdered Metal Connecting rods- # 10108688
Cast Aluminum Pistons-#12514101
G.M. High Volume Pump Oil Pump- part # 12555284
Hydralic Flat tappet Camshaft- #14088839
Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"
Intake Duration @ .050"- 194 Exhaust Duration @.050"- 202
Lobe Seperation-112



Brakes - I was told they were new brakes and rotors, however seeing the rust I started to question that not knowing any better. But, I'll make sure the pads are good, bleed the lines (removed the M/C to get clearance for work on the valve covers and steering gear box, so that's a must) and read up on rotors at a later time. If I can drive on them safely now, I'll move that lesson lower on my list. Thanks!

Cable - The cable is more like a rubber hose actually. I can see how that round "washer" part of it could go through the front, and in fact, there is a hold in that area near where it comes out, that it could go back into, that is empty. It doesn't appear to be my washer fluid hoses though as I can follow those completely. However I do not have a windshield washer door, could this be the vacuum hose for that maybe?

Two cables come out of the same place, it's one of these two cables, then it just cuts off.






T Issue - Here are a couple more pictures if anyone can sort out what might be my best course of action.

 

on my 74 that grommet/hose goes to the actuator in the passenger cowl...it closes the door to cut off fresh air during max/ recirculate air function..the hose was cut...u might see a hose laying in the area near the wiper...couple the hoses and turn on max a/c, hopefully the actuator still works and u still have a/c..

 

#2 that black rubber grommet goes into your firewall and into the wiper bucket and is routed towards the passenger side of the car. The cut hose went to your fresh air door air valve. you should shoot who ever did that. easiest fix is to get some more hose, cut that at the grommet drill into the grommet and glue new hose into place. paint a green strip along it as well. Just shove the grommet back into the fire wall for now, there should be a hole it fits into near there.

 

Thanks for all the input.

 

Pete, good thread here! About your crate "Mexican" crate engine.. How did you find out who manufactured it and all. On the back of my engine...Mexico is stamped there and in the front left are the numbers. I would like to find out more about mine since I have no paperwork for the engine. All help would be good. Thank

 

I got all my info from google. I google'd all the stamping/digits I could find on the engine, and led me to it being a crate motor, and what type of motor, and where built, etc.

Most of the info came from other forums. People with the same engine where looking for help and I read through all the threads regarding it and got all the info I could. It was actually rather easy. I'm in the same boat as you, bought the car from someone who knew nothing about the motor (or anything else regarding the car for that matter).