Wheel Stud Replace?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
Wheel Stud Replace?
I have a '69 and I need to replace a wheel stud in the rear.
Is there an easier way to R&R a rear wheel stud besides removing the parking brake hardware?
When I restored my car I hoped I would never have to play with the parking brakes again but I can't see any other way.
Any Tips???
Thanks!
Is there an easier way to R&R a rear wheel stud besides removing the parking brake hardware?
When I restored my car I hoped I would never have to play with the parking brakes again but I can't see any other way.
Any Tips???
Thanks!
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 34
From: Porterville Ca
47 veiws, no answers, I think you're gonna have to pull that parking brake apart. They sell a nice tool with a thrust bearing that makes the job pulling the new stud in easier(hub on the car) you can also use a stack of greased up washers with a donor lugnut (may get damaged in the install). Gotta do mine too! rr has a lug nut broken off about half way, I'm going to replace and service the parking brakes anyway...
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: York Pa.
Posts get lost in here because there is so much activity..I replaced all my studs when I did the bearings back there in May..I do think that at least a shoe retainer spring would have to come off..might be able to move it around and slide the old stud out and in..I have that stud install tool with the bearing ..it does work but the washers and new sacrificial lug nut works well also..you may want to go ahead and change them all while you are in there..I guess that's up to you though..
good luck.
good luck.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
Done!
Thinking that the parking brake hardware would be the problem turned out NOT to be the case.
With the hole for the stud in the 6 o'clock position, access can be obtained by simply removing the star wheel adjuster for the parking brake.
The problem that I ran into was that the new stud (standard size) was a bit too long to insert into its hole.
So I made 2 relief cuts in the backing plate for the parking brake and dimpled the backing plate about 5/16" with a hammer and punch.
I was then able to get the stud in the hole and simply pulled it flush,with my impact gun, using a few flat washers and a bit of lube on the shoulders of a spare nut.
Thanks to those that took the time to reply!
Thinking that the parking brake hardware would be the problem turned out NOT to be the case.
With the hole for the stud in the 6 o'clock position, access can be obtained by simply removing the star wheel adjuster for the parking brake.
The problem that I ran into was that the new stud (standard size) was a bit too long to insert into its hole.
So I made 2 relief cuts in the backing plate for the parking brake and dimpled the backing plate about 5/16" with a hammer and punch.
I was then able to get the stud in the hole and simply pulled it flush,with my impact gun, using a few flat washers and a bit of lube on the shoulders of a spare nut.
Thanks to those that took the time to reply!
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,376
Likes: 224
From: Beecher Illinois
I broke a rear stud in my white79.
Unbolted the caliper and kinda hung it up out of the way. Removed the rotor, rivits having been drilled out and replaced with flathead bolts in the past.
Just removed the parking brake adjuster and spring.
Since the stud had been broken, it was easy to get out. If yours is simply stripped, I'd take a cutoff wheel and cut it off. There's not enough room behind the stud to get it out easily.
Punched the broken stud out.
To get the new one in, I ground a slight bevel on the stud shoulder. Just enough so it wouldn't dig into the backing plate.
Rotated the axle so the hole was to the bottom. Placed the new stud up to the hole with the grounded down spot against the backing plate.
A sharp whack with a hammer popped it into the hole. There was enough flex in the backing plate to get it back in.
Took some large flat washers and a new steel wheel nut. Greased up the washers and cranked the nut till the stud bottomed out.
No problems at all, turned out to be an easier job than I expected.
edit....man, I type slow!
Unbolted the caliper and kinda hung it up out of the way. Removed the rotor, rivits having been drilled out and replaced with flathead bolts in the past.
Just removed the parking brake adjuster and spring.
Since the stud had been broken, it was easy to get out. If yours is simply stripped, I'd take a cutoff wheel and cut it off. There's not enough room behind the stud to get it out easily.
Punched the broken stud out.
To get the new one in, I ground a slight bevel on the stud shoulder. Just enough so it wouldn't dig into the backing plate.
Rotated the axle so the hole was to the bottom. Placed the new stud up to the hole with the grounded down spot against the backing plate.
A sharp whack with a hammer popped it into the hole. There was enough flex in the backing plate to get it back in.
Took some large flat washers and a new steel wheel nut. Greased up the washers and cranked the nut till the stud bottomed out.
No problems at all, turned out to be an easier job than I expected.
edit....man, I type slow!
Last edited by KapsSA; Mar 9, 2011 at 07:50 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: York Pa.
I have this happen a good bit at work..I assume that you haven't used a air gun on the damaged stud..getting the wheel off is step one..if you have stock wheels..rally..you will have to cut down the middle of the stud..not sure how much tools you have but I use a porting bit on a 3/4 hp air tool..I wouldn't use a grinder as sparks flying everywhere can damage the finish on the wheel..once that is done remove the rotor and pop in the new one..one thing you will need possibly is an oversized lug stud..that depends on haw bad the spindle hole is damaged..
