Q8C6Vette

Dear All,

A quick background. My mechanical background is almost (Zero) I'm learning a few things here and there so please try and explain in "English" and if possible to provide with links would be appreciated.

Oh, and today happens to be my birthday

I was taking the car to the shop to get my power window motors replaced, while on the way I hear a loud cranking sound and some smoke coming out of the engine, when I reached the shop the mechanic says that its a crank problem and the engine must be opened/checked and possibly rebuilt.


I got the car as a birthday present from my wife 10 days ago, and it died on me on my actual birthday :P so here are some info on the car:

1. Year: 1976
2. Engine: 350 Chevy SB I think. (4 GM 3970010) This is engraved on the block
3. Transmission: 350 Automatic - 3 Speed

Things I did since I bought the car:

1. Spark plugs replaced
2. Spark wires replaced
3. Crank wheel replaced (Not sure what this is called I translated from Arabic to English)

I don't know how much HP my car now, but trust me when I tell you its low, and the car feels very slow

I need any input/suggestion to rebuild/upgrade the engine:

1. Is it a good idea to upgrade/modify it to 383 Stroker? If so, what parts/kits are best value for money?

2. If the 383 is not the best HP/TQ for this engine to upgrade, what would be a better route? if I want to keep my block and rebuild it.

3. Would it better better/cheaper to replace the block and go with a new "ready engine"? if so, which one?

4. What should I change/replace (non engine) since the engine is removed (wiring, etc..) (see photos below)


What do I need the car to do?

1. I don't need to participate in any drag racing.
2. This will be a semi-daily/cruiser car
3. Looking to upgrade the HP to be between 400-600 HP (not sure about torque I don't understand what it does exactly)
4. I want to be able to have a nice drive, but still hit the gas pedal when I feel like it
5. Keep original body look (No modification to the hood)


I'm sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to provide as much info as might help you answer me more specifically. If you need anymore info please let me know.

The engine was taken off the car this morning, and is being dissembled as of this writing. Since the car is at the shop, I need not to waste anytime and order the parts ASAP so they could start rebuilding the engine.

I live in Kuwait, so it will take approximately 7-10 days for me to get the parts from the states, and I have to order it correctly at once, it will be kinda hard to return it.

Below some photos of my car today:

champs65

Happy birthday

I wonder why your mechanic was so quick to say it was a crank problem? Did it start to knock or screech on the way over? What was your oil pressure?

There are all sorts of complete crate engines available small blocks and big blocks, at all sorts of prices. An engine might be an economical, quick, and easy swap for you.

Here is a link to a GM replacement 290 HP 350 from Jegs. It's a popular replacement engine, and it should be an easy bolt in:

http://www.jegs.com/p/GM-Performance...55609/10002/-1

a 383:
http://www.jegs.com/p/GM-Performance...54258/10002/-1

And a link to their main engine page. Good company.
http://www.jegs.com/c/Engines-Compon...10763/10002/-1

You may want to check out Summit as well. http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc They sell these engines too; if you are shipping to Kuwait one might be a better choice than the other. BTW, both sell all sorts of rebuild parts too. Good luck.

bryanpl123

Salam Alaikum,

If your crank is the problem and you chose to repair rather then replace the engine it would be near the same price to to get either the 383 stroker kit or a standard replacement crank. Then you have to pay for a little machine work to clearence the block.

Torque is what you actually feel in the seat of your pants when you accelerate! A 383 will have much more torque then a 350

Hopefully your mechanic is honest and treats you well... Insha'Allah

ShraderMan

One thing to watch out for is that there are two (yes, I know that there are more) versions of the small block. I'm talking about the rear seal design. The original design used a two piece seal. Some say that this is prone to leak. GM redesigned the small block seals in the 1980's and currently (until the end of the small block) used a 1-piece seal. The reason that I'm telling you this is that if you replace your motor, which is a 2-piece seal design, with one of these newer ones (which I did), you will also need to address your flexplate. The old will not necessarily fit the new one. Just for your information, I went with a Blueprint engines 383. It is nice, but EVERYTHING Edelbrock has failed on it. Carb, Fuel Pump, etc... This brings me to another issue. The intake manifold. You cannot deal with anything that has a rise on it or the carb/air cleaner will not clear the hood. I had to go with a K&N with a 1.25" drop to make it. If you want the ULTIMATE 383, talk to the guy who invented it. Joe Shermann racing. His motors are strong and all you need do is install it and put oil in it. Comes pre-tuned and ready. Great guy and he knows everything that there is to know about the 383. You can find him if you google joeshermannracing.

mikejpss

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146029...e-package.html
why fight it ?

gkull

It really comes down to how much money you have. I had a 500 some hp 383 ci and it was kind of fun for a few years. So I yanked it out, rebuilt it, and put it in a box as my spare motor. I bought a high 500 hp 427 stroker motor and it was much more fun than the little 383. But about a year or so it blew up. So I pulled it out and installed my spare 383. It was really kind of fun with a 5 speed and shifting it at over 7000 rpm. I then built a 434 ci and i wanted lots of power so I made it probably close to 650 hp. I pulled out the 383 after about a month of use and put it back in the box.

If you have the money and can drive a stick manual transmission car. I would skip the baby step of only a 383 and buy a 434 ci small block chevy motor and a 5 speed. Then only a few of the most exotic European cars will ever pass you.

Me out at the road racing track going 156 mph before hitting the brakes for the first turn

Q8C6Vette

Thanks for the responses. I just went to the shop, after openning the engine, it appears the crank is gone, along with 4 (crankshafts?) and all pistons also that need to be replaced.

What am asking for here are suggestion upgrade parts for the engine in the following:

1. Cam
2. Pistons
3. Shafts
4. Crank
5. Fridge (dunno name in English)
6. Gasket kit
7. Carb

I have translated some part names from Arabic to English so they might not make sense to u.

As far as how much money I wanna spend, I'm looking for a quick fix-upgrade for the time being, and maybe later can save up for a new Engine.

HamadUP

One VERY imoprtant issue to address, if you decide to make your own 383, then make quite sure that you order it as a balanced rotating assembly, as there are no machine shops that I know about in the whole gulf area that can or has the ability to do rotating assembly balancing.

Q8C6Vette

Dear Hamad,

Thanks for the input. I wonder if its possible for me to give you a call if you could help me pick out the parts needed for this upgrade.

Thank you

Q8C6Vette

Hello,

I checked out that engine, couple of questions:

1. The Fast Burn 385 is not intended for marine use, and should only be used in 1973 and earlier pre-emissions street vehicles or any year off road vehicle.

Would that work on my 1976?

2. Its strong forged steel crankshaft and forged powdered metal connecting rods have been proven to 500 horsepower. And its Fast Burn cylinder heads are hungry for a little more cam.

Would that mean I can't go over 500HP with this Engine?

Thanks

hugie82

Or a complete short block assembly so no grinding!
everything else can be purchased , Camshaft and lifter kit. oil pump hi volume, and gaskets...
You can reuse pushrods, rockers, flywheel, distibutor, water pump, fuel pump, intake manifold, oil pan, valve covers and cylinder heads if they are in good condition
Good Luck!!!
and Happy Birthday

HamadUP

sure, call me on +974-55777265

HamadUP

It will work just fine, the pre-1973 thing is only applied to our friends in US , we are still free (well, so far) to use any engine on any car!

Wrencher

OK your past "quick fix". that engine will cost you more than a "crate" (complete) engine to overhaul (repair). Buy a complete engine that is ready to go, and don't go overboard on the horsepower. If you buy over 400 horsepower, that old transmission, differential, axles, etc. will be destroyed in no time at all. Another good thing about a complete engine: no wrong parts!

Once the car is back together with a replacement engine, you can take your time and build the original engine as powerful as you like, build a rugged transmission and rear end, and do a complete swap at a later date.

Very nice birthday present, I might add.

Hans

Q8C6Vette

Hello guys,

it appears I won't be able to rebuild my engine, as it has already been machined before.

I have found a guy selling his modified 1994 corvette LT1 engine (he is swapping an LS1)

The Engine is working fine.

The information I have of the engine so far:

- It is converted to a Carburetor (850 Holley)
- Aluminum heads
- Eagle Camshaft start at 2500 RPM
- Around 400-450 HP
- MSD 6AL w/rev controller
- MSD Distributor
- MSD Billet
- MSD Wire set

The guy is asking around $2700 for the engine (Without installation)

Below photos of the Engine (not yet rebuilt, he will do a dissemble it, clean it, and rebuild it if anything needs replacing)


















What do you guys think? Should I go for it?

Now, I have no option of rebuilding my engine, should I look for a used engine? or start building with a new block? or buy a complete new engine?

As far as budget I currently have no more than $3000. I can have up to $6000 4 months from now.

RobRace10

Edit (price went from $1600 to 2,700 while I was responding to the post) that makes the crate motor the only option. It looks like lots of corrosion on that motor, was it dipped in salt water!!!!!!!!!!



As others have said, anything over 400 HP you could easily be putting more stress on parts in the drive line than they can handle.

At 500- 600HP you better have a lot bigger budget to make things hold up.

Q8C6Vette

I thought so as well, I know I would need to change many things if I'm to make a stronger engine.

Any idea if the engine above is a good choice?

RobRace10

How about something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP35512CT1/


http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...ice|Asc&page=2

This would be much better than that used motor.

captanpants

With that much money i'd get a good short block and either bolt your all your old stuff to it,easy and cheap or get the 4 bolt short block and get a cam and head package and stick it in the short block. You can still use your headers, intake,starter and all your other accessorizes. That's what i did short block flat top pistons 64cc heads and my old stuff, not a rocket ship but it's reliable and i can whip any Yugo around here!!

Q8C6Vette

Haha, Yeah, I think I will go that route. I'll just get a new block and build either a 350 or 383 stroker.

A friend can build either of those so I will check with him tonight and post feedback.

Thanks for all your replies