a 74 4 speed car interior pretty nice body a DD other than needing new bumper covers as they are cracked. What does everyone think needs to happen to get it running? i was told by the owner that the carb leaks fuel because it is rotted out porosity type problem is this possible? Still has 20 year old fuel in the tank as well and assume it has to be pumped out. Is the tank steel and probably rusted out? There do not seem to be any leaks.
My thoughts are the following.
drain fuel and replace with fresh fuel
change oil and filter
new fuel filter
basic ignition tune up plugs wires cap and rotor
either rebuild or replace the carb if it could be porous and leak through the casting.

This will not make it a driver but in my mind no sense in working on the brakes and other things on a car that does not run..
Dave

 

Well, if you need a new gas tank/sending unit, I have an original one without even surface rsut that I willl sell to you cheap. Jsut let me know!

 

My thought with fuel this old is that at the very least the fuel lines will need to be cleaned from tank to engine....better yet replaced...but that is alot of work as I believe the body would have to come off.

I have used a spray can of carb cleaner and my air compressor to push the cleaner from tank to engine...messy...but worked. Spray into fuel line at tank and then used about 15 - 20 psi to push cleaner. Used an entire can.

I would also plan on getting an arm inside the tank to clean out the bottom.

The carb could simply be leaking at the fuel inlet due to being cross-threaded...you will be able to determine that. I would also replace the fuel pump as the rubber diaphram is likely shot.

Good luck.....need pictures....

 

Might want to run a compression test to see what you have.

 

This car needs to be completely dissassembled,all parts replaced with NOS items and reassembled,cleaned and painted to NCRS Top Flight specs before any attempt to start it is made,or you may fall to a fate quite possibly worse than death!

That's the impression you may get from some of the members here,the rest of us will say put some fresh fuel in it,fix the fuel leak,fire it up and go from there...

 

1. Remove the plugs and give a quick shot of wd-40 in each hole to lube each cylinder wall .
2. install a gasoline approved rubber hose on suction of fuel pump, run into 5 gallon plastic can , can should be elevated ~ 18 inches off ground and secured.use about 2 gallons of gas in can.
3. get someone to turn engine over 2 times, give another shot of wd-40. let sit for 10 minutes.,
4.install plugs and try to start. If it DOES start let run for 30 seconds then stop and inspect all gas lines/fittings/etc.
5. have a fire extinguisher handy, do all this outdoors.

 

If the car did not run for 20 years I'd think about a complete brake system overhaul if I was you.

 

As stated above, removed plugs and spray 'brake free" or ATF in the cylinders, let seat over night. then manually rotate engine to free up rings bonded to the walls from seating or rusted.

Replace all rubber fuel line specially the one from the tank. when I got mine (sat for 10 years) I smelled fuel, when I investigate where the line was coming from it was wet. when I move it to see where it was attached, I was able to pinch the line in half like a sphagetti. it was that bad.

 

Pour Marvel Mystery Oil down the plug holes and let sit overnight.
Fresh plugs and use a separate fuel source.

 

It seems most agree that some sort of lube should be sprayed into each cylinder- overnight is best- before you try to rotate the motor. That would be my #1 tip to anyone trying to rotate a motor that has sat up for 20 years. Matter of fact, if you have the time, do it twice with an overnight wait each time. Sure aint gonna hurt nuthin......

 

i think i would pull the distributor and use a priming tool. on the oil pump.

 

I would also rotate the engine one full revolution by hand before using the starter. I have seen engines which sat for like periods have the valves stick in the bores, which is likely to break or bend some stuff before something gives.

 

If a stock Quadrajet they have gaskets which dry out and leak or it could be line as posted above but I doubt the casting is leaking due to porosity though this is remotely possible! I second the complete brake job as suggested above. How much is this car, I have many friends who could have spent a couple of thousand more and saved three times that much on restoration and frustration!!! Buy the most solid car you can find,and afford, you'll save thousands!

P.S. Check the frame thoroughly its the number one reason for a car not making it to be a driver!

 

Yes, porosity can be a problem. I had a similar problem with a Camaro in the early 70's. Can't remember if it was from the casting or an internal plug of some type but it was repaired with epoxy. The carb would drain dry if it sat for a while and took some cranking to get the fuel bowl full again before it would start.
Terry

 

Thanks for the suggestions the oil in the cylinders a very good idea though had not thought about the sticking valves. Evenbetter idea to use the remote can to get all the old fuel system in the car out of the picture. The goal is to sell the car or pass it on to a family member. On the selling side it seems though it would be worth a bunch moreit it ran even if not perfect, spend a day cleaning it up and fid some used bumper covers the same color as the car,white. On the plus side it has been indoors so not baking in the sun or under feet of snow all this time though the garage is not heated. I did not know the body has to come off to change fuel lines. not good and not on the list of what I think the appropriate effort for this car if it was mine. I am helping a friend get it going again is the only mission and the budget to get it to drive is a couple of thousand. My fear of bad things is obviously the engine, clutch frozen up, brakes frozen solid, every seal in everything dried up and useless. These all seem like things that would make this a real money pit and pretty much worthless. Someone has turned it over in the last year as that is how they know about the leaking carb so whatever damage done there is done if they did not oil things etc. I does tell me the fuel pump must work enough to start the car as it leaked fuel at the carb. It might need to be changed later but for now the idea is to do as little as possible to get an idea of the condition overall.

Someone made mention of the frame rotting are there any good places that can be checked easily with a drop light and mirror quickly to check for obvious damage so as to not expend any effort at all if it is. Any suggestions appeciated. This is not a car I want to buy or keep as my 91 keeps my wallet thin enough now.
Dave

 

Take a few pics inside and outside of car, post em up here and we can tell you what its worth as is.

 

I got a 74 350 vette running after 12 years Do all of the above and the only surprize I got was the fuel lines had a million pin holes from rust so donot fire it up indoors and have a fire exstinguisher made for fuel fires handy