I want a street sleeper small block. This is a local builder. Apparently, I can use stock valve covers and moderately dress it up as stock, and use a shorter intake manifold with a small loss in HP/Torque. What are the opinions of the engine experts in this forum on this engine build? I'm not looking for everyone to throw their engine builds at me. I just want your opinions on this particular engine.

http://www.sehrpower.com/pdf/400hp_383_Dyno_Package.pdf

 

For that price I would order a GM Performance 383 engine. with aluminum heads and a roller cam

 

That is a good deal for the seller. Probably about a $2000 - 3000 profit margin.

I've considered over the years building stroker motors for money.

 

If you want a seriously bad *** engine.... these are what Goldstran uses in his vetts...

http://www.katechengines.com/street_...e_packages.php

KAT-A4730 Street Attack LS7 : 7.0L, 427in3
Top-tier LS7 performance engineered for street applications . Crate engine features Katech 11:1 compression forged pistons, solid small-end rod bushings, Torquer LS7 camshaft, and valvetrain enhancements. The perfect choice for high power, daily driven vehicles.

Application: 2006-2009 Corvette Z06, Hot rods, off-road vehicles, show cars
Displacement: 427ci, 7.0L
Bore: 4.125
Stroke: 4.000
Compression ratio: 11:1
Fuel: 93 octane
Horsepower: 600
Torque: 570
Block: LS7
Heads: LS7
Crank: LS7 forged steel or optional Callies forged steel
Connecting rods: LS7 powdered-medal Titanium, rebushed
Pistons: Katech forged aluminum with optional DLC coated pins
Camshaft: Katech Torquer LS7
Oiling system: LS7 dry sump or optional ARE Stage 1, 2, or 3
Throttle body: 90mm electronic or cable
Intake manifold: LS7


Starting at $9,400 plus core





KAT-A4735 Track Attack LS7: 7.0L, 427in3
The ultimate normally-aspirated LS7 crate engine for off-road / track use applications. Drawing from over two decades of experience with championship winning pushrod V8s, this package is race ready. Features Katech 12:1 or 14:1 compression forged pistons, solid small-end rod bushings, high output camshaft and valvetrain enhancements. Available with electronic or mechanical throttle.

Application: 1997-2009 Corvette road race and drag race cars, Hot rods, off-road vehicles, show cars
Displacement: 427ci, 7.0L
Bore: 4.125
Stroke: 4.000
Compression ratio: 11:1, 12:1, 13:1 or 14:1
Fuel: 93 octane (11:1), 100 octane (12:1), 105 octane 13:1+
Horsepower: 620-685
Torque: 550-565
Block: LS7 with ARP studs
Heads: LS7 with ARP studs
Crank: Callies forged steel
Connecting rods: LS7 powdered-medal Titanium, rebushed (11:1 or 12:1), Callies H beam steel or optional Carrillo A-beam (13:1 or 14:1)
Pistons: Katech forged aluminum with DLC coated pins
Camshaft: World Challenge or GM Stage 3
Oiling system: Dailey 4 stage dry sump system
Throttle body: 90mm electronic or cable
Intake manifolld: LS7


Starting at $9,400 plus core

 

Way over priced for just 400 HP.

 

Thanks. But what I want is an engine that looks stock to the average looker. Old style valve covers, stock looking air cleaner, stock headers, small block hood, etc. A sleeper to look at, as well as sleeper with more guts too. It would be for a '69, so, I don't want late model heads.

 

I think you could do much better price wise if you assemble the parts and put it together your self. You could do a similar engine in your garage for about $3500. or less. But in the world of you want someone else to do it all and all you do is sign the check, what your looking at is about what anyone would charge, Time is money!!! But you will always get differencing opinions on anything one could ask. If after talking with this company you feel good go with them!!!

 

I think you could put together a killer combo making more power by yourself for less money.

Personally, I would build something around the new large port Vortec heads Chevy has. They have both perimeter and center bolt valve cover holes so you can make them look old school.

 

Maybe you want something like Steve built for his '67. Its a ZZ383 short block but he used Dart heads, the intake has been ground clean to look like stock, stock valve covers, 2 1/2" rams horns and he turns 12's in it.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...17-tt-iis.html

 

this

 

I built my own, (~440tq and 460hp at the rear wheels. Dynoed) BUT i have full access to a machine shop at my friends engine rebuild shop which has been in business for ~50 years..... my dad used to take me there when I was just a young boy.
And 35 years of building cars and engines for my hobby.

before saying, build it yourself... ask the question, CAN you build it yourself? DO you have the tools? DO you have the time? Do you have the knowledge to pick the correct parts?

There are SOME very smart guys here that do know how to build (Way smarter than I).... and then there are a ton of ones that THINK they can do a build....

Maybe take the time (a month or so) to determine what parts you may want to use... find someone reputable to assemble the short block for you. putting together the long block (top end part)is much easier...

and remember.... "THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT"..... CUBES.... as many as you can get.....I wish i would have put in a SB 427 rather than the 383... and you can stroke it more than just a 383...I THINK you can go as far as a 396, or somewhere close, with your 350 block....

 

I used the ZZ383 shortblock for my build. Brodix IK200 heads , hyd roller cam, Comp oe roller rocker assy. Came in at $5.5K. with some of the stuff in my sig.

 

Oh please, get rid of the stock heads. That's your biggest handicap to getting some power/torque in a stock looking motor.

 

I should have said "heads that will accept old style valve covers". Aftermarket heads are acceptable.

 

$5K is pretty good

I have ~$3K in my valve train alone!!! ~500 retro roller, ~350 RR... ~ push rods~$100.....~150 Springs ~$1000 porting, polishing and portmatching...and ~$1000 for the heads....

Now through in the forged pistons, Scant crank, Demon carb, fluid HB, MSD ignition system, headers, bigger better oil pans, and pumps, intake, pretty stuff that makes it look fast..... and more.... easy to hit $7-10K..... doing it yourself...

It only take 1 thing to go fast....... MONEY.

 

Your problem will be finding stock looking covers That will clear a 400HP top end assymbly. Theres ways to make them fit though.
Ive got a set of Edelbrocks from the 60's hanging on the garage wall because they wouldnt fit with the new engine and too valuable to just scrap.

 

I used 1/4" billet aluminum valve cover raisers, and then powder coated my original valve covers... works and looks

 

Their claim is that the RHS Super Street Iron Head Pkg will allow for stock valve covers.

 

It's too much money for a cast crank engine.

 

Price is way out of line for a 400 HP cast internals engine.
If your Budget is there look at this, Fully forged 434 assembled short block.
http://www.musclecars.net/parts/Bran...165991576.html
You can buy a set of AFR 210 eliminator heads, factory style hydraulic roller cam and your set for under $7000. some assembly required. If these were available when I built mine this is the way I would have gone.
PS almost any head can use factory style valve covers except the vortecs and some of the aftermarket vortecs can even use the stock style valve covers. Spray paint the block and heads orange and your good to go. You can get over 500 hp out of this combo with a near stock look, idle and manners and never have to pull over 5500 rpm.