Installation Tips? Spark Plug Heat Shields
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 65
From: Kissimmee fl
Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
2017 C3 of Year Finalist
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Hey Paul. I could be crazy, but IIRC the bolts for the shielding into the block should be 7/16th in head, a 1/4 in. bolt. A 1/2 in head would indicate a 5/16th in bolt. Much easier to get to from underneath as noted above. Good luck on your next attempt. 
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
My mistake. Yes they are 7/16" as you have described. Too many brain farts these days!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Shields don't work well with over the top wires.
As usual some very informative pics.... I won't show a pic so as to avoid embarrassment. I do not need the boomerang part. As alluded to above I am going over-the-top with the wires this season. While I do have new stock Delco #508-N wire set to fall back on if need be I wish to try something different. I recognize this is sacrilege but why the heck not. It will be fun to cut, crimp, and install end terminals on all the wires (Accel 8-mm, all terminals, tools, etc. at hand). The stock wire set on there now is droopy and badly installed causing me a lot of worry re wire burn-through while driving.. So I'll try just the shields and Bubba out. Actually, although not stock, it should look and function nicely.
If anyone is interested I will be using vertical valve cover looms. They should be here via UPS tomorrow.
The plug boots are straight-on although I have a 90* option if things do not clear the shields and exhaust manifolds nicely.
More to come....
If anyone is interested I will be using vertical valve cover looms. They should be here via UPS tomorrow.
The plug boots are straight-on although I have a 90* option if things do not clear the shields and exhaust manifolds nicely.
More to come....
Hi Paul. I see your taking the plunge and cutting your own wire.
I know you will never go back to prefit wires now. It just takes the correct crimper and 'bout 2 pratice tries with some extra wire length and crimps.
I wish i could have read this post sooner to give u a heads up but to use over the top wires with the stock shields requires the wires hang way outside the head/vlv cover/exh manifold.
Those shields were designed with under the engine routing (like Petes). And they actually travel between the engine mount and the block. The problem there is aftermarket large diameter wires are too fat (8mm and larger) and won't fit under the engine mount - at least not for me.Another item to note is the vertical looms - while looking proffessional - run the wires parallel and too close.
Plug wires really need 1/2" separation (Smokey Yunik) and cross at 90 degree angles. #5 & #7 are very prone to crossfire when run parallel. What i'm saying is if u go over the top then go over the top. BTW my #1,2,3,4,5,6 go over the top and #7 & #8 go under in the back like stock - more functional than aesthetic looking.
I hope this helps more than this hurts,
cardo0
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
Paul 74, I am probably too late with tips, but I just did mine on a '79. I had the car on blocks anyway. I was able to access the L&R rear from underneath.
The right front was a bear. The bolt is right above the engine mount and in a blind spot. I used a mirror to see the holes/bolt from above. It helped, but I gave up on threading the bolt into all 3 holes: Shield-Clip-block holes. I ended up just threading it into the Clip & block hole. Then cut a notch into the base of the Shield hole so I could just slip it on to the bolt. Then tightened it down.
The right front was a bear. The bolt is right above the engine mount and in a blind spot. I used a mirror to see the holes/bolt from above. It helped, but I gave up on threading the bolt into all 3 holes: Shield-Clip-block holes. I ended up just threading it into the Clip & block hole. Then cut a notch into the base of the Shield hole so I could just slip it on to the bolt. Then tightened it down.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Paul 74, I am probably too late with tips, but I just did mine on a '79. I had the car on blocks anyway. I was able to access the L&R rear from underneath.
The right front was a bear. The bolt is right above the engine mount and in a blind spot. I used a mirror to see the holes/bolt from above. It helped, but I gave up on threading the bolt into all 3 holes: Shield-Clip-block holes. I ended up just threading it into the Clip & block hole. Then cut a notch into the base of the Shield hole so I could just slip it on to the bolt. Then tightened it down.
The right front was a bear. The bolt is right above the engine mount and in a blind spot. I used a mirror to see the holes/bolt from above. It helped, but I gave up on threading the bolt into all 3 holes: Shield-Clip-block holes. I ended up just threading it into the Clip & block hole. Then cut a notch into the base of the Shield hole so I could just slip it on to the bolt. Then tightened it down.
The straight-on plug boots (pre-installed) are pretty sturdy and should not need stock heat shields.
The car runs well so I'll leave it alone for now.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
Thanks, I'll take a breather on this one. Just spent 6 hours installing R&M horizontal over-the-top looms with Accel 8-mm universal wires. For the distributor end, yes, the old cut to length, remove 5/8" from the end leaving core intact, and crimp terminals on with boots up the wire with di-electric lube and then pull back down over the terminal trick. It is time-consuming but worked out quite well. Just remember the firing order. (OK I cheated and labeled the old wires with masking tape and a magic marker.) I do have the needed tools from years ago with my 1967.
The straight-on plug boots (pre-installed) are pretty sturdy and should not need stock heat shields.
The car runs well so I'll leave it alone for now.
The straight-on plug boots (pre-installed) are pretty sturdy and should not need stock heat shields.
The car runs well so I'll leave it alone for now.
