After the winter projects were complete (new dash, new stereo, new dash bulbs), I started the Old Gal up to go for a drive. Trans fluid was low so I go to shut her off. Key turns but engine still runs! Key in, key out, start, run, aux.....engine still running. I had to disconnect the battery to stop the engine.

During the winter, the steering wheel was off and I attempted to fix the dimmer switch lever with negative results. Column was never disassembled passed the steering wheel and horn components. Did I eff something up while rooting around with the turn signal lever?

What could be the problem/solution to this pickle I am in? I can go for a drive...I just can't stop...which isn't all that bad if you think about it. I'd like to get it fixed though.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Andy

 

Do a search... this was discussed just recently. Believe there's a rod from the ignition switch to the ignition cylinder which you may have upset.

 

I appreciate the quick response...I should have mentioned that I tried the "search" option...also with negative results. Subjects that were similar but didn't help me.

Andy

 

Just a thought, on a jeep I have the starter went bad, replaced the starter and when I connected the battery it took off and ran over my foot and stopped at the toolbox, turned out the starter relay contact was welded together.

 

Why would disconnecting the battery cause the engine to stop running? I'd say you also have a problem in your charging system.

 

My 79 just did the same thing. I had to move the switch on the column a bit to cure it. I too had the horn button section apart prior to the problem. Can't explain why something changed but it did.

 

Here is the link to the other thread.

If it doesnt work look for the title "how did I screw this up ignition cylinder when replacing steering gear box"

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-gear-box.html


kdf

 

BK,

Two years ago when I bought the car I knew the engine was under the hood, "P" was for park, and "R" was for race...so I am by no means a mechanical genius. However, since owning the Corvette I am beginning to understand these things more.

I believe (being that the Vette is an '80) that by disconnecting the battery and shutting off the power to the car which in turns shuts down the fuel pump and the engine shuts down..or essentially runs out of gas.

KDF,

I have read the link to the other postings and followed the directions. I can see the rod moving both ways...turning the car on and back. However, the engine still runs after turning the key back where it should be turning the engine off.

I would think if it were a bad ignition switch it wouldn't work at all correct? Is there anything else I should try?

Andy

 

This exact thing happened to me as well. If I turned the key off the motor would still run until I stomp the gas and it would die. I was in the process of redoing my interior so was messing around in that area.

My bet is on the rod to the ignition switch as previously suggested. It could be the steering column got tweaked a bit and is causing the issue. Play around with both the ign switch rod and the column to see if they help.

ON SECOND THOUGHT

I also replaced the alternator around the same time. I have read that a faulty diode can cause this symptom as well. You may have the alternator tested although I an not sure if a faulty diode would show in that type of test.

Does it do it every time?

 

Absolutely

Something else is going on here. Disconnecting the battery should not stop the alternator from powering the car. It should be charging the battery which keeps the battery cable hot. Possibly there is an MSD box or something getting power directly from the battery that is being disconnected which kills the engine.

If the ignition is stock, there are at least 2 problems.

Why won't the car shut off and why isn't the alternator charging the battery. I bet if you fix one problem, you fix the other.

If you leave the key in the run position, can you still kill the engine by disconnecting the battery?

Any creative wiring been going on here recently?

 

I agree with BKbroiler and myk7.
The alternator feeds the distributor "through" the ignition switch so if the ign is really completely off the the dist is probably being backfed in some way.
Slotedog ,try pulling out the gauges fuse and the backup lamp fuse and then start the engine and see if it will turn off , those 2 fuse circuits can directly backfeed the distributor.

 

A thought came to mind as I was looking at the wiring diagram. It would not be impossible for a shorted courtesy light delay box to backfeed through the gauges fuse.

 

Roger,

I tried as suggested..with both the gauge fuse and the backup lamp fuse out the ignition works as it should.

Now am I in for a new alternator? What would be the fix for the problem I have now?

I do have an MSD ignition 6AL and an MSD Blaster 2...even though I am not sure what either does.

Courtesy light delay timer works as it should...light on, door closed, 30 seconds, light out.

Myk,

With the engine running and the key in "run" disconnecting the battery cuts the engine. As far as "creative" wiring goes...I am the 12th owner of this car and the first 11 seem to be named "Bubba." I am doing my best to do things correctly rather than "eh it works, **** it."

As always all help and suggestions are appreciated.

Andy

 

I'm thinking one of those 2 circuits is backfeeding the pink wire going to the GM HEI . I would now try leaving 1 fuse in and 1 out and vise versa and see if you can find which one of the two is feeding the dist.

I'm not familiar with the MSD wiring so someone else might have to help if the box is the problem ( I have heard that some boxes need a diode installed in one of the wires.)
Is the MSD box wired to the pink wire of the backup lamp circuit ?

 

I just pulled out a MSD box. Never messed with one before. It had only 2 wires hooked up to the wiring harness. One from the box into the tach, replacing the ? brown wire that the tach filter in on. Unsure original color but its the wire with the filter on it. The second wire spliced on to a large pink wire going into the car. The other end of the pink wire went to the starter harness. Not sure where the pink went in the car, didn't investigate yet. Maybe this will help.

 

This may be a total "New Guy" question here.........what exactly is on the gauge fuse?

The reason I ask is because I did as Roger suggested, one fuse in one out etc...with the gauge fuse out the car starts and shut off as it should. BUT my gauges and gauge lights still work!

As I have stated earlier this car is riddled with "creative wiring" and I would (eventually) like to re-wire the entire car correctly. Is it safe to operate the car without the fuse? What the hell are the gauges hooked up to if not the "gauge fuse?"

Andy

 

The gauges fuse powers the gauges,tach,defog switch,cruise control,choke heater warning light and etc.
Maybe the MSD box is tapped in on the HEI dist pink wire and the MSD box is powering up that circuit.
Evil Empire mentioned his was wired into the pink. Can you disconnect the box and retest ?

 

Which is why the battery gauge and tach weren't working and the choke light was on....

When I disconnect the pink wire coming from the "MSD Blaster" it kills the engine but with it disconnected the engine will not start...just keeps turning and turning and turning with no fire up of the engine. There are pink wires connected to orange wires of different gauge and white wires mixed in...it is an absolute mess.

The MSD ignition isn't anything new. It was installed by the PO and worked as it should for the two years I've owned it. Why now?

Andy

 

Just an update...when engine is off the tach needle is right around red-line when running it sometimes is showing the right RPMs and sometimes it's all over the place.

When the key is turned to off the engine runs for another 40 seconds or so and then shuts down.

There is a large gauge orange wire connected to a small pink wire which goes into the MSD box. From the MSD box there is a black wire that goes somewhere I can't determine at this time and a purple and green wire that leads to the distributor.

There is an orange and black wire which later turns to a white and red wire that goes from the Blaster to the MSD box.

The car hasn't been started since mid-November when I stared my "winter projects." These included installing a new dash and center console, radio, speedo and tach printed circuit, console circuit, and header gaskets.

I also attempted to fix the dimmer switch actuator and lever but got pissed and said "eff it." I hooked up a new switch near the kick panel temporarily until I get determined enough to "fix" the dimmer correctly. The old dimmer switch is still on the column.

As I stated earlier, the ignition worked as it should before these "projects," why is there a problem now? Did I tweak a wire when I lowered the steering column and removed/installed dash and speedo/tach? Did I tweak a wire in the engine compartment when changing the header gaskets? Is the ignition switch bad? Is this car screwing with me? Is "Corvette" the French word for "Money Pit?"

I'm getting more and more deflated..

Andy

 

You didnt say which battery cable you removed to shut the car down the first time.
If you removed the neg cable then yes your car will die right away. If you removed the pos then there is a possibility that your car can run on with the alternator powering the elec system.
Removing (+) cable=Pos voltage supplied by aternator excessive electrons just dont got to the battery for storage.
Remove (-) Cable = you have no ground, current path is stopped