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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #21  
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this just proves I am so out of my element. Thanks for the advice guys!
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:25 PM
  #22  
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This isn't answering the PO question but still I want to make a comment. People that are buying a new cam and then start talking about advance/retarding and such are just wasting their time as they never ran the engine in the stock set up other listing to others opinions! look you are getting a new cam for a certain level of power, the cam grinder knows more than you ever thought of knowing about cams, so listen to them and buy a cam with the power in it you want and install it as made to begin with and don't try and out knowledge the cam grinder unless you have a dyno to check out what you need for what you are really using that engine for. Understanding what all the numbers mean is good, but they mean not much without a total understanding of what they do and how they work with the rest of the engine. Most people over cam an engine for street use for sure because of not understanding how the cam works and not listening to the grinder, and then try moving timing around to make up for too much cam timing! OK I'm done!!
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #23  
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I certainly agree because we have had a couple different suggestions and debates about them in this thread alone. I wanted to hear other's opinions on what the difference between those two cams were.

What I did was input all my data into Compcam's website(incuding valve size, intake type, and so on). According to it, it gave me the range I wanted out of a fairly stock motor. I don't have a big budget to invest in this motor...so I won't be spending $3000+ on a superior valve train as someone had said I needed to do to make big power. It is going to be a Saturday night cruiser and that is about it.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #24  
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That said, you might want to just stick with something along the lines of a good ole 268H. 280* is likely going to be too much cam with only ~9:1 CR.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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one other note about the performer manifold in an application like this, cut down the center divider maybe half way you may lose some power off idle but midrange and higher will improve
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
That said, you might want to just stick with something along the lines of a good ole 268H. 280* is likely going to be too much cam with only ~9:1 CR.
You can up your compression cheap as I explained in the earlier post. If not go with a smaller cam with split duration. Stock heads really need help on the exhaust side.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 10:57 PM
  #27  
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pocket porting will help those heads alot! that and back cutting the valves . that and a shave on the deck will help too. i love stuff like this. its what we used to do before you could buy all this off the shelf stuff.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
You can up your compression cheap as I explained in the earlier post. If not go with a smaller cam with split duration. Stock heads really need help on the exhaust side.
So far I am just getting the cleaning and valve job but I am going to call them and have them deck it .30 like you suggested. Compcams does call for a 9.5:1 CR on their site for that cam and that was one thing that I definitely dropped the ball on. For some reason I was thinking it should have already been that CR but with the large CC I understand why it is not.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruthish
So far I am just getting the cleaning and valve job but I am going to call them and have them deck it .30 like you suggested.
Recognize that by decking the heads, you will change the position of the intake ports relative to the intake manifold, even if the intake manifold and heads are ported to the intake gasket.

This is a very real phenomenon, but I don't know at what point this becomes an issue.
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